i-miev not changing, turtle

[axelss]

Good day ! I immediately apologize for a possible incorrect translation, I use a translator.
After a long idle time, my car stopped driving normally, the “car” indicator appeared on the instrument panel, and traction disappeared. When trying to charge the car from 220v, it sees a pause and turns off charging.
In various forums, I found information that it is necessary to disconnect the compressor of the air conditioner and the heater. But these actions did not yield results.
I decided to connect everything back, and turn to you for help.
I am attaching a photo of the errors. (HobDrive)

 

[kiev]

What is the age and condition of your 12V battery under the front hood? An old, weak or worn out and depleted battery can cause a multitude of faults such as you are showing. A good and verified strong battery is necessary as the first step in troubleshooting.

Your faults show lack of communication between the rear wheel speed sensors, and also the heater. The most serious code, if it is real, involves the ground fault leakage sensor inside the pack which would not be easy to access.

What is the voltage of your 12V battery when the key is OFF, also when the key is ACC, and when in the ON position? This may give some clues.

 

[MickeyS70]

The most serious code, if it is real, involves the ground fault leakage sensor inside the pack which would not be easy to access.

Yes, the sensor is located inside the main pack, however that doesn’t mean the fault (if real) is there also, a ground fault leakage can be caused by any HV component or the cabling between, you have correctly disconnected the most common causes (I had water in my AC compressor), might have to do a few more after you make sure you check your 12V as Kiev suggested.

 

[axelss]

Hello. Replaced the 12V battery. Did not give any result, still the same. The same errors.

 

[kiev]

What were the voltages from the old battery requested in post #2?

Did you check the replacement battery to ensure that it was good, strong and fully charged? i purchased 3 "new" batteries during covid and they were stale from sitting on the shelf too long without being charged.

It seems highly unlikely to have 3 separate and unrelated systems fail at the same time, whereas a common point for these is the 12V battery, which is why we focus on getting a verified strong battery first to rule that out.

Unfortunately you have not ruled that out for troubleshooting purposes.

 

[axelss]

I understood the essence of your message. I will make a special test of the battery, for charge and capacity.

 

[axelss]

What were the voltages from the old battery requested in post #2?

Did you check the replacement battery to ensure that it was good, strong and fully charged? i purchased 3 "new" batteries during covid and they were stale from sitting on the shelf too long without being charged.

It seems highly unlikely to have 3 separate and unrelated systems fail at the same time, whereas a common point for these is the 12V battery, which is why we focus on getting a verified strong battery first to rule that out.

Unfortunately you have not ruled that out for troubleshooting purposes.

maybe you can give your number for communication in one of the messengers. for a quick dialogue when I will be near the car?

 

[kiev]

Just post up your voltages and findings here so that everyone can benefit from the discussion.

 

[axelss]

Varta - new

 

[axelss]

after erasing all errors, two wheel speed errors remain. after connecting a separate 220V device - I have the same errors as in photo #2

 

[michael8554]

Battery images in #9 don't show the voltage connected but OFF.
Or in ACC.
Or in ON
As requested in post #2 by kiev.

 

[kiev]

The blue battery is in better condition than the black one, and it probably needs to be charged.

But those errors are likely real. The wheel sensors are likely a wire or connector issue since it affects both sides of the car.

The leakage and ground fault errors are serious. Disconnecting the HV to Heater and Air Conditioning was a good test to isolate those devices.

i would suspect moisture has gotten into either the Main Pack or the Motor Control Unit,

OR into a HV wiring harness (rodent damage, broken insulation or corrosion in connector contacts). That includes the Heater, Air Cond, MCU, Chademo, OBC.

For example, this is from a Hybrid motor connector
with the cover in place,

and removed,

 

[axelss]

what actions would you take in a case like mine?

 

[kiev]

How long have you owned the car?

If this is a used car recently acquired, then the previous owner may have had problems and attempted repairs. Inspect for signs of previous repair attempts. People get desperate when making repairs and will try unconventional and stupid things hoping to get it working.

Visually inspect all wiring harnesses for damage, especially those related to the DTCs. Inspect all connectors and contacts for corrosion; inspect lids and covers for signs of tampering or previous repair efforts that may have not sealed the lids. Signs of corrosion from road salt, water, etc

 

[axelss]

3 months

 

[axelss]

it looks very scary.

 

[axelss]

I can’t upload video

 

[kiev]

Not so much, that is all surface rust and not affecting any structural or electrical function. It could be cleaned with a steel brush, primed and painted, or coated with oil or grease, and would look nearly new and function just fine. This is always seen in older cars and unprotected steel.

For DTC purposes you need to look for any corrosion in an electrical connector or wiring harness.

 

[axelss]

Tell me, more specifically, how the connectors affect this. there are a lot of different connectors. there are two covers on the bottom of the battery, one of them has corroded bolts.

 

[axelss]

Video
Upload to youtube