I'm buying a non-runner MIEV here in Japan!

Mitsubishi i-MiEV Forum

Help Support Mitsubishi i-MiEV Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
MickeyS70 said:
after you tested MCU3, did you ever put back MCU2 and checked them values again?
Click to expand...
Actually I may have misspoken. I think MCU#2 is in it now. I will double check though. I've been running ragged mentally and physically so may have gotten confused with all the stuff going on. I will let you know for sure when I can.

But I did not switch back again after putting in the latest MCU -- whatever it was.

For the battery calibration, do I just start it at any SOC, or is it preferred to go to 100% charge before beginning or some other process is recommended? I guess I could RTFM finally...
 
Last edited:
Rational said:
For the battery calibration, do I just start it at any SOC, or is it preferred to go to 100% charge before beginning or some other process is recommended? I guess I could RTFM finally...
Click to expand...
The principle is to deep discharge the battery (using heater) and then measure the energy used to fully charge it again. The lower the SoC to begin with, the quicker the process.
 
Have you even done a "regular" calibration charge yet?

That is to drive it till down below 2 bars, then plug in to charge and let it go till it's done balancing. (meaning don't use a timer or cut-off, just let it finish on its own)
 
kiev said:
Have you even done a "regular" calibration charge yet?

That is to drive it till down below 2 bars, then plug in to charge and let it go till it's done balancing. (meaning don't use a timer or cut-off, just let it finish on its own)
Click to expand...
Not the first part taking it down to below 2 bars. Only the latter letting it charge fully overnight with the car plugged in.

Sounds like the first part is essential to get the full rebalance effect though based on what you both shared above.

Okay. I'll do that next. I'll be sure to track the energy input during the charge beginning to end.

Might be a few days before I can deeply discharge it that much. Will share when done. Thanks guys.
 
In other news I received a replacement air filter. Looking for other basic maintenance tasks to take care of next.

Sadly I killed my SM2Pro clone this week when trying to solder an ST-Link to it to update the firmware.

I ripped one of the solder pads off not being careful enough. Lost cause it seems now. Ordered another.

Might order another VCI here soon if I can't get the full chip working with mut3se.

Looking at getting either an original tactrix OP2, or Autel Maxi V200 as I've heard they work via USB on a PC really well. Might be a good one.

Hesitating to spend the money on an original scanmatik ($350+) quite yet even though all my research points to it being the current top dog for use with most all software currently in use.

Need something that will guarantee my success in programming two additional key fobs without bricking my working one as its the only one we have.

I also posted some resources to the forum here in other specific threads last night. I was able to download the online manuals with httrack successfully and post them.
https://myimiev.com/threads/zipped-i-miev-ion-c-zero-2012-workshop-manual.4393/post-50951

Also shared my miev youtube playlist.
https://myimiev.com/threads/great-i-miev-videos-and-playlists-post-here.5701/#post-50957

I also updated post #251 above about how to use MUT3 with any VCI:
https://myimiev.com/threads/im-buying-a-non-runner-miev-here-in-japan.5649/post-50818

Just trying to add value back where and how I can.
 
Last edited:
Rational said:
Sounds like the first part is essential to get the full rebalance effect though based on what you both shared above.

Okay. I'll do that next. I'll be sure to track the energy input during the charge beginning to end.

Might be a few days before I can deeply discharge it that much. Will share when done. Thanks guys.
Click to expand...
If you do what @kiev mentioned on a regular basis you don’t need MUT/Diagbox as changes will be small and the BMU will automatically update the capacity.

In your case however the ‘native’ calibration will most likely take months as the value is way off and automatic adjustments are done in small increments.

Only if you initiate the battery calibration trough Diagbox/MUT will the capacity be calculated and changed ‘in one single go’…
 
I may have some great news here.

I'm posting this to my thread as well as it's likely to be an important piece of the puzzle in getting the Lexia full chip VCI working with MUT3SE.

ParisCY shared a specific Lexia 3 .dll file that may work.

Source post here: https://mhhauto.com/Thread-Mitsubis...-Bosch-Autel-Actia-etc?pid=2930225#pid2930225

In looking at the file's .reg it may be just the standard kolyandex driver file he shared on github after all. But I'll test and confirm.

Perhaps I really did still need kolyandex's pass thru driver .dll in addition to ParisCY's MUT3 common folder to get it to work and just didn't understand that from the limited directions at first.

But here it is attached to make it easy for anyone else to try in the future.

Edit: So I compared the file to the driver in post#1 by hjsdlsnbc in his thread on the Lexia/Diagbox and it is identical.
https://myimiev.com/threads/using-t...-as-a-universal-j2534-adapter.5594/post-49347

So it seems I already had what I needed. But I didn't understand that ParisCY's common folder .dll and version.txt files were still dependent on this and it was required. That is now confirmed based on ParisCYs post above. Good to know for sure finally.

I will test and report back.

View attachment 1424
 

Attachments

  • Lexia_J2534.zip
    10.1 KB
Last edited:
I got it working! :)

And by the way, the FULL CHIP Lexia clone is fast! Very smooth so far. May not need to buy any other VCI for this car now.

(Need to test all areas for full functionality. I will test other VCIs next and see if one gives more support than another.)

Quick how-to:
1. Install Windows. Can use Win 7 32bit or 64 bit as well as Win 11. (I used W764bit on an old Dell Latitude E5440 laptop.)
2. Install MUT3 SE. I used SEW21061 for this install.
3. Not sure if this is required but I had these installed: Install the Actia drivers, USB Com Board Evolution Driver (UMDF).
4. Copy the ParisCY common folder into C:\MUTSW_SE\MUT3-SE\System\Common folder. (Use the correct version from ParisCY depending on year of MUT3SE.)
4a. Make sure your version.txt file is completely empty. Open it and check. Delete any numbers if present and resave with ctrl+s. Close notepad.
5. Install the kolyandex Lexia_J2534.zip files.
5a.
1. Place Lexia_J2534.dll into a root of disk C:\
2. Run reg-file, according your system (32 or 64).
3. Lexia J2534 now shows in adapters list in any software.
6. Run MUT3SE.
7. In the VCI selection window choose "Lexia J2534".
8. The window should look like this: Saying "Device opened successfully."

This is the key step no one talks about. Nor mentions is something to look for. This is the key validation that it is talking to your Lexia clone successfully.

1730298320239.png

If it did then your MUT3SE should work!

Click on the top right STV button and see if it talks to your car!

Check all DTCs!


1730298343471.png



1730298438514.png


1730298459899.png

Also posted in hjdlsnbc's original thread here:
https://myimiev.com/threads/using-t...-as-a-universal-j2534-adapter.5594/post-50986

Special thanks to him for his efforts and details shared. It all helped. Thank you @hjdlsnbc.
 
Last edited:

Mitsubishi Key Registration Training​



Best to start at 8:16 of the video. I've set the video to start there already for your convenience.

But the shares some other info earlier in the video about the different key types if you want to learn more.

At least the key types up until the video was made a decade ago.
 
Last edited:
Last edited:
It worked!

Cool. I now have three working key fobs. Wife and daughter are so happy.

My daughter is in love with this little car too the past two days. She's driving it everywhere!

Even moved her car elsewhere and parked the miev in her spot. Nice.

Anyway, I've made a video on the process for anyone else who wants to do the fob key programming for a JDM i-miev.



*Note: I can confirm 8035 works! 100% confirmed to be a working code. Use it.

Steps:
Enter the "Keyless Operation" area ECU. 5:25 mark in the video.
Choose 'Special Function'
Choose 'KOS Key Registration'.
Enter code 8035 to continue and click the check mark.
Press the Lock button on the fob twice in succession quickly. Wait for the screen to update the qty of fobs recognized.
Do the same on the next fobs you want to program (up to 4).
When all are done click the check mark box.
Exit the current area twice to the main menu.
Done.
 
Last edited:
Thank you so much for your hard work.

Otsukaresama!

You've helped move this forum forward in more way I ever could. I will be revisiting this info soon as I only have 1 key
 

Similar threads

M
Ion 2012. Will not charge AC, only DC. No active codes indicating any useful (after OBC Swap = Yellow car) [Resolved]
Replies
17
Views
748
michael8554
M
W
2011 IMiev with warranty replaced battery, non-runner, considering sale - UK, Devon
2
Replies
20
Views
5K
MickeyS70
M
C
Our 2014 iMiev has reached 80K miles and is still going strong!
Replies
2
Views
1K
michael8554
M
A
Adam's i-Miev Jelly Bean experience
Replies
5
Views
1K
israndy
I
C
(Sold) his and hers 2010/2012 pair
Replies
2
Views
568
michael8554
M

Latest posts

Back
Top