I'm buying a non-runner MIEV here in Japan!

[Rational]

Your understanding of how these cars operate would be greatly improved by reading the technical information section of the service manual.

You're not wrong about that.

I'll make some time to do so. I've been trying to utilize all spare hours to get physical work done during daylight now that the weather is good for getting work done and the days are growing shorter.

Sadly I've been exhausted with all the work needing to be done. Spent the last three day weekend, 12 hours each day cleaning and reorganizing the garage and it's still only 70% done. But I'll get there. Sadly my mind checks out by the time I sit down at 10pm with no concentration for reading manuals.

You guys have enabled me to get a lot further down the track though thanks to your quick and detailed guidance.

Where did you get the OBC from or do you mean type 1 EVSE?

OBC. I got a free one when I ordered the third MCU. Came together in a package deal for like $80 bucks for both delivered.




Which makes me realize that these mievs must be VERY reliable overall. I was reading the wiki page yesterday for a bit trying to find info on key fobs and it said that 10,000 were manufactured just in Japan alone. And it stated, "by the end of February 2018 a total of 46,827 i-MiEV family passenger cars had been sold worldwide since 2009.[191]"

And further,
"As of July 2014, Japan ranked as the leading market with over 10,000 i-MiEVs sold, followed by Norway with more than 4,900 units, France with over 4,700 units, Germany with more than 2,400 units, all three European countries accounting for the three variants of the i-MiEV family sold in Europe; and the United States with over 1,800 i-MiEVs sold through August 2014. As of early March 2015, and accounting for all variants of the i-MiEV, including the two minicab MiEV versions sold in Japan, global sales totaled over 50,000 units since 2009.[6]"

Based on the small number of people here asking for help, it seems they must not really break down all that much. And/or they're just being destroyed when regular repair shops have no clue how to work on them, like the shop I visited to buy mine.

Truly sad as they are very reliable and very, very efficient cars that could last three lifetimes if kept up. They're actually really simple EVs I think compared to the newer ones. Which I think is enough reason to rescue a few for myself before they become really rare someday. I like the fact they aren't all under control remotely via telemetry bs as well.

It's basically a street legal go cart with typical car amenities. I'd like to see someone create an aftermarket open source system to replace all the different ECUs in EVs. With adjustability for each car's particular needs in the way of battery packs, etc. That way we aren't dependent on all these proprietary parts permanently. Like these MCU controller boards.

I wished there was a standardized controller board and CAN protocol that I could swap out for and easily maintain and adjust on my own.

 

[Rational]

In other news, I waxed the car last night! Even clay barred it first. I never do that for any of my cars.

Didn't even do that for my Leaf. So I must really like this car it seems. Quick and easy too because of the size.

 

[MickeyS70]

If you’re still looking to use the one cable to charge both EVs, you may consider swapping the OBC?

From @alviseven ’s experience it seems it’s down to the OBCs programming.

Even if they are both the same, at least you know you have a working spare…

 

[Rational]

If you’re still looking to use the one cable to charge both EVs, you may consider swapping the OBC?

From @alviseven ’s experience it seems it’s down to the OBCs programming.

Even if they are both the same, at least you know you have a working spare…

Oh, that might work. But I'd need a newer OBC version year? What was the cutoff they switched to using the brick in the middle of the cable? And is the brick type identical between the Nissan and the Mitsubishi I wonder? IF so I may look into this.

Also, I just found someone posted the saved online service manual they'd saved to a .zip file here:
https://myimiev.com/threads/zipped-i-miev-ion-c-zero-2012-workshop-manual.4393/post-39611

 

[MickeyS70]

Oh, that might work. But I'd need a newer OBC version year?

Your OBD was replaced at some stage and programmed to work with a ‘straight cable’ only. What year is the spare?

What was the cutoff they switched to using the brick in the middle of the cable?

Don’t know exactly, but I gather only very early JDM models (some were exported) weren’t compatible with a standard EVSE

And is the brick type identical between the Nissan and the Mitsubishi I wonder? IF so I may look into this.

Yes, if an I-Miev is “brick” compatible, you can use any ‘granny’.
Note:
What @alviseven tested successfully was putting a ‘straight cable’ OBC into a ‘brick type’ car; not sure, if it works the other way around, but only one way to find out..

 

[MickeyS70]

It's basically a street legal go cart with typical car amenities.

Might want to Google ‘Kei car’ and then apologise for the insult above

 

[Rational]

Might want to Google ‘Kei car’ and then apologise for the insult above

I've lived around and owned kei cars now for 35 years here in Japan. Not all are sport models.

Most are gutless wonders that young women and 70+ year olds drive.

My electric go cart here can beat them.

Here a 'kei car' is any small car under 660cc if with an engine that doesn't rate the full size road tax or license plate. Nor does it require a parking spot be validated before purchase.

So people buy them because they are cheaper to register and buy overall. Runabouts really.

'kei car' internationally may have a more sporty image because of guys hopping them up and getting publicity?

We also call them 'yellow plates' as opposed to white plates on the mid and full sized cars. All kei cars here have yellow plates to signify their lower size class.

 

[Rational]

So, my XTOOL InPlus IP819TP Full TPMS scan tool is not impressing me much.

It was supposed to be a top of the line competitor to Autel's TPMS unit from last year.

Hasn't been worth the $488 I paid for it so far. Wished I had bought the Autel.

It had cheaper replacement TPMS sensors for wheels and a cheaper annual subscription. Now I know why.

It doesn't offer the correct key programming options for my JDM miev even when choosing the Japan region.

It just has 'non smart key' option. Well that's unusable.

I also hesitate to try Diagbox as it doesn't see the VIN and I think all the US and EU cars have an actual key that inserts in the ignition, right? Which I think is a different transponder model than what I have. So I'm not so sure Diagbox will succeed with the key programming. Might have to get MUT-III working somehow.

I've got an SM2 pro clone. Maybe that I can get to work. Or maybe the Autocom 2020.23 software with the VCI I got for that can do it I wonder?

Or I could experiment with US versions of the Outlander for a matching fob style/transponder from the list and see if that pops up the correct options for 'smart key' as an option in the list on the xtool.

Otherwise I'm looking at between $180-$300 for a MUT-III compliant adapter and/or risk trying to buy the kolyandex driver for mut3 and see if I even get it and then further if it works.

Anyone ever posted a video on the process successfully working for reprogramming key fobs for the miev? Especially my type?

 

[Rational]

"It just has 'non smart key' option. Well that's unusable."

Or wait... is it not a smart key? All the youtube videos I was watching for my fob type they were choosing 'smart key' in the Autel and other units. So assume this is a 'smart key' type. Just two buttons for lock and unlock.

Example from Autel:

 

[Rational]

Oh this looks promising. This guy got MUT-III working with scanmatik 2 pro. Or clone it says.

 

[Rational]

I also found this great thread.



I tried it out but I already had some registry edits that I think were blocking it from working. I need to start over with a fresh install to see if it works. If it does, then this may be the way to go.

https://mhhauto.com/Thread-Mitsubis...for-any-VCI-sm2-CarDiag-Bosch-Autel-Actia-etc

https://mhhauto.com/Thread-Mitsubis...-Bosch-Autel-Actia-etc?pid=2697977#pid2697977
"The 2 files that you download extract with winrar or zip 7z etc.. and paste this 2 files at location c:\MUTSW_SE\MUT3_SE\System\Common"

mut3 PT for 2024 versions.txt​

https://mega.nz/file/1CVDiJzK#lxUiEe19oJh8ebY6cn3YMgNqXbcfatkPxximGGvg1-Y
Password is ParisCY
(Attached here for convenience and posterity. Common-Folder-For-MUT3SE-2023-2024.7z.zip Attached. (Remove the .zip and unzip it with 7zip).

version 2016-2020-2022-2023.txt​

https://mega.nz/file/BWURGRyY#9E6El4MGe_FulyQws_-_RrFdy98n_ngfL4Ia_8dEGto
Password is ParisCY
Common.rar (Attached here for convenience and posterity. I've named it common.rar.zip. Remove the .zip and unrar it with 7zip).

Note: The above labeling is incorrect. If you use MUT3 2023 it actually requires the common folder for 2024 from ParisCY above.

Before finding this .dll redirect, I was able to connect with my sm2pro clone last week to the car, but I think because of my registry edits it kept disconnecting and reconnecting. So I didn't apply the adjustment I saw within the scanmatik app for turning off the open door beeper option I found at the time, which was nice to see it's an option.

I hope to get a clean OS going of Win 7 32 bit and try it out. My XP install was throwing an error tonight after the scanmatik .22 driver install. Typical dependency issues on this older OS I need to meet to get that to go away. So probably easier to go with Win7 for the next test.

If this works it's the simplest method so far:
1. Install scanmatik clone drivers v.22 (***NOT latest from the web which are .26 which will brick your SM2Pro clone!).
2. Install Mut3 se.
3. Copy over common folder from ParisCY. Two files.
4. Open Mut3 se and choose the SM2 VCI.
5. See if it sees the VCI and talks to the car.
6. Later edit: you need to install the Lexia_J2534.zip kolyandex passthru driver still in order for the ParisCY common folder to work.

Note: I'm currently testing using the psa-diag.fr virtual machine 9.186 for this with Win10 Pro 21H2 as the base VM OS.

Later edit: It does work! For me with an openport 2.0 clone so far. Without the kolyandex passthru driver loaded.

Even Later Edit: So I compared the Lexia_J2534.zip to the driver in post#1 by hjsdlsnbc and it is identical.
https://myimiev.com/threads/using-t...-as-a-universal-j2534-adapter.5594/post-49347

So it seems I already had what I needed. But I didn't understand that ParisCY's common folder .dll and version.txt files were still dependent on this Lexia_J2534.zip and it was required. That is now confirmed based on ParisCYs post below. Good to know for sure finally.

 

[Rational]

I've been maxxed out at work this week. Also sold my prius. Paperwork and logistics takes two days. Blah... Done though.

I've been wanting to post screenshots but not had the time or energy.

Noticed the new MCU reads the battery correctly at 16kWh vs the 10kWh the original MCU was showing in obdzero. So wanted to share those screenshots.


Also want to share the screenshots of Diagbox showing all the ECUs it doesn't recognize because of a lack of a VIN number being input.

Also need to find a solution for programming fob keys still.

And still get MUT3 working with an adapter. So far the fix mentioned above still says it can't talk to the VCI. Almost as if his script still needs the kolyandex driver loaded. Which now that I'm typing it out I need to reinstall to be sure it's there. But without paying for it, don't think it will work anyway. His thread infers it's not dependent on it but maybe it really is.

I may just buy a VNCI RNM for $300 to get past all this rigamarole. I think it's the only think that will get mut3 working for me so I can program some keys properly.

I also accidentially plugged my scanmatik sm2 pro clone into one of my spare laptops that had the latest drivers installed on it still, which deletes the firmware from the adapter. So I have to break out the st-link adapter and firmware and reflash it to get it working again. Fun. Thanks Russian programmers for bombing the clones via the latest driver updates...

Sadly I had watched older youtube how to videos where they said it was fine to use the website drivers for the sm2pro. It used to be. Not anymore. So don't load anything past .22 on the sm2pro clones anymore. I thought I'd removed all the latest drivers from all 5 different old laptops I've been using for testing but I guess one still had it on there. Blah...

 

[MickeyS70]

Noticed the new MCU reads the battery correctly at 16kWh vs the 10kWh the original MCU was showing in obdzero. So wanted to share those screenshots.

A brand new battery only has a usable capacity of around 14kWh therefore a reading of 16kWh isn’t realistic..

 

[hjdlsnbc]

And still get MUT3 working with an adapter. So far the fix mentioned above still says it can't talk to the VCI.

Here i wrote a quick howto for you and other ones: https://myimiev.com/threads/what-actually-is-mut-iii-in-detail.4144/post-50845

 

[Rational]

A brand new battery only has a usable capacity of around 14kWh therefore a reading of 16kWh isn’t realistic..

Thanks for the precision and accuracy. I will find and upload the actual screenshot with the correct figure.

I was typing that from memory which is obviously incorrect. Thanks for being precise. Unlike me right now this week. It matters.

 

[Rational]

A brand new battery only has a usable capacity of around 14kWh therefore a reading of 16kWh isn’t realistic..

Okay. I've had a terrible week but as promised here are the screenshots.

Here's where I was remembering I got the 16 kWh figure from:


So you're saying this is not an acurrate reading?

Here is the old reading I had with MCU#2:


But I know the label on the actual traction battery pack says 16kWh.



This changed after switching in MCU#3 during the final swap. MCU#1 and 2 had different readings.

So based on my limited understanding of things this MCU#3 is somehow programmed differently for a larger battery size. Am I mistaken?

It shows a much higher RR when fully charged of 129 vs the 88 I was getting before on the other MCUs.



VS the old MCU#3


MCU#2 showd an RR of 89 at 100% SOC.



This MCU is showing a total CPU time of 5950h in hobdrive vs the old one of 9000+

So about half the total runtime. Which is nice.


VS MCU#2 of 9837h


Not sure about those high temp readings in this above screenshot. Seems high. Maybe it was right after charging or driving? I don't remember.

 

[Rational]

I think this was the orginal MCU#1 runtime of 23516 hours. Which I guess would be right if it's driven over 200,000km.

Screenshot taken 2024 10 05.




Here is the obdzero reading for MCU#1




This is from my pack label. Best I could get for a pic.

I finally googled RR and found it means Range Remaining.

 

[MickeyS70]

I don’t think any of the battery capacity values displayed with ODBZero are accurate as the car sat idly for months but MCU3’s seems just impossible.

IIRC OBDZero is using two capacity PIDs, one from the car (MCU?) and the other from the BMU, one can see both values in the OBD tab (use <> to access it)

If you could post a screengrab of the above section, this may give clues why MCU3 shows an unrealistic value.

The way to correct this is to run a battery calibration with either Diagbox or MUT3, however I wouldn’t do that just yet as getting to the bottom of this may help with ‘natively’ changing the capacity for NMC cell upgrades.

 

[Rational]

I don’t think any of the battery capacity values displayed with ODBZero are accurate as the car sat idly for months but MCU3’s seems just impossible.

IIRC OBDZero is using two capacity PIDs, one from the car (MCU?) and the other from the BMU, one can see both values in the OBD tab (use <> to access it)

If you could post a screengrab of the above section, this may give clues why MCU3 shows an unrealistic value.

The way to correct this is to run a battery calibration with either Diagbox or MUT3, however I wouldn’t do that just yet as getting to the bottom of this may help with ‘natively’ changing the capacity for NMC cell upgrades.

I already had all the different tab screengrabs on file:











I've got the grabs from MCU#2 and MCU#1 as well if you want them.

 

[MickeyS70]

No need for further screen shots; just some clarification, after you tested MCU3, did you ever put back MCU2 and checked them values again?

The car thinks it’s currently fitted with a brand new battery, however I tested this replacement function once with Diagbox and 45Ah was the max I could get.

IIRC correctly there has been one or two instances where the capacity was reset suddenly after reconnecting 12V aux??

That would mean if you were to replace MCU3 with MCU2 now, the 16kWh value would remain.

Just do a battery calibration with Diagbox or MUT3 to fix this overestimation and a make the GOM more accurate.