I'm buying a non-runner MIEV here in Japan!

[Rational]

after you tested MCU3, did you ever put back MCU2 and checked them values again?

Actually I may have misspoken. I think MCU#2 is in it now. I will double check though. I've been running ragged mentally and physically so may have gotten confused with all the stuff going on. I will let you know for sure when I can.

But I did not switch back again after putting in the latest MCU. Whatever it was.

For the battery calibration, do I just start it at any SOC, or is it preferred to go to 100% charge before beginning or some other process is recommended? I guess I could RTFM finally...

 

[MickeyS70]

For the battery calibration, do I just start it at any SOC, or is it preferred to go to 100% charge before beginning or some other process is recommended? I guess I could RTFM finally...

The principle is to deep discharge the battery (using heater) and then measure the energy used to fully charge it again. The lower the SoC to begin with, the quicker the process.

 

[kiev]

Have you even done a "regular" calibration charge yet?

That is to drive it till down below 2 bars, then plug in to charge and let it go till it's done balancing. (meaning don't use a timer or cut-off, just let it finish on its own)

 

[Rational]

Have you even done a "regular" calibration charge yet?

That is to drive it till down below 2 bars, then plug in to charge and let it go till it's done balancing. (meaning don't use a timer or cut-off, just let it finish on its own)

Not the first part taking it down to below 2 bars. Only the latter letting it charge fully overnight with the car plugged in.

Sounds like the first part is essential to get the full rebalance effect though based on what you both shared above.

Okay. I'll do that next. I'll be sure to track the energy input during the charge beginning to end.

Might be a few days before I can deeply discharge it that much. Will share when done. Thanks guys.

 

[Rational]

In other news I received a replacement air filter. Looking for other basic maintenance tasks to take care of next.

Sadly I killed my SM2Pro clone this week when trying to solder an ST-Link to it to update the firmware.

I ripped one of the solder pads off not being careful enough. Lost cause it seems now. Ordered another.

Might order another VCI here soon if I can't get the full chip working with mut3se.

Looking at getting either an original tactrix OP2, or Autel Maxi V200 as I've heard they work via USB on a PC really well. Might be a good one.

Hesitating to spend the money on an original scanmatik ($350+) quite yet even though all my research points to it being the current top dog for use with most all software currently in use.

Need something that will guarantee my success in programming two additional key fobs without bricking my working one as its the only one we have.

I also posted some resources to the forum here in other specific threads last night. I was able to download the online manuals with httrack successfully and post them.
https://myimiev.com/threads/zipped-i-miev-ion-c-zero-2012-workshop-manual.4393/post-50951

Also shared my miev youtube playlist.
https://myimiev.com/threads/great-i-miev-videos-and-playlists-post-here.5701/#post-50957

I also updated post #251 above about how to use MUT3 with any VCI:
https://myimiev.com/threads/im-buying-a-non-runner-miev-here-in-japan.5649/post-50818

Just trying to add value back where and how I can.

 

[MickeyS70]

Sounds like the first part is essential to get the full rebalance effect though based on what you both shared above.

Okay. I'll do that next. I'll be sure to track the energy input during the charge beginning to end.

Might be a few days before I can deeply discharge it that much. Will share when done. Thanks guys.

If you do what @kiev mentioned on a regular basis you don’t need MUT/Diagbox as changes will be small and the BMU will automatically update the capacity.

In your case however the ‘native’ calibration will most likely take months as the value is way off and automatic adjustments are done in small increments.

Only if you initiate the battery calibration trough Diagbox/MUT will the capacity be calculated and changed ‘in one single go’…

 

[Rational]

I may have some great news here.

I'm posting this to my thread as well as it's likely to be an important piece of the puzzle in getting the Lexia full chip VCI working with MUT3SE.

ParisCY shared a specific Lexia 3 .dll file that may work.

Source post here: https://mhhauto.com/Thread-Mitsubis...-Bosch-Autel-Actia-etc?pid=2930225#pid2930225

In looking at the file's .reg it may be just the standard kolyandex driver file he shared on github after all. But I'll test and confirm.

Perhaps I really did still need kolyandex's pass thru driver .dll in addition to ParisCY's MUT3 common folder to get it to work and just didn't understand that from the limited directions at first.

But here it is attached to make it easy for anyone else to try in the future.

Edit: So I compared the file to the driver in post#1 by hjsdlsnbc in his thread on the Lexia/Diagbox and it is identical.
https://myimiev.com/threads/using-t...-as-a-universal-j2534-adapter.5594/post-49347

So it seems I already had what I needed. But I didn't understand that ParisCY's common folder .dll and version.txt files were still dependent on this and it was required. That is now confirmed based on ParisCYs post above. Good to know for sure finally.

I will test and report back.

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