I'm buying a non-runner MIEV here in Japan!

[Rational]

In other news I ordered a set of ten key blanks of the correct type for the JDM miev from aliexpress.

Now to figure out what to buy to make my own keys. Taking all input if anyone has any recommendations.

Would love a fully automated key cutter but they go for about $3000. I suppose I could figure out how to turn my 4'x4' printnc CNC into a key maker...

 

[MickeyS70]

Would love a fully automated key cutter but they go for about $3000. I suppose I could figure out how to turn my 4'x4' printnc CNC into a key maker...

Not sure why anyone would need 10 car keys but below seems to do the job at a fraction of cost mentioned above..

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Duplicating-Machine-Vertical-Cutting-Automatic/dp/B0CKBQ78M9

 

[Rational]

Not sure why anyone would need 10 car keys but below seems to do the job at a fraction of cost mentioned above..

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Duplicating-Machine-Vertical-Cutting-Automatic/dp/B0CKBQ78M9

1. For future i-mievs I plan to buy.
2. It was only a few dollars more for 10 vs 5.
3. If I make mistakes doing the first few I have spares without having to reorder.
4. So I can make i-miev keys for others and possibly make money.

Thanks for the link.

I've read in my limited search so far on key machines that the vertical type take longer to use than the horizontal. But they're good for 'high security keys' whatever that is. But horizontal are better for doing more volume car keys.

 

[Rational]

So I pretty much rested this weekend and didn't do much. Just reading and messed with the head unit replacement a bit.

Got the Mekede in place and at least putting out sound. Reading up on the software side and it seems I get a free update to the latest 3D OS as an owner of the M6 Pro Plus model. So I've asked them via my aliexpress chat. That will be fun to test out.

Also read on the XDR forum that the DUDUOS6 works on my model as Mekede and NaviFly are the same company and the hardware is identical. Seems that the DUDU OS is the one with all the tweaks being made on it these days. People say it's really pretty polished now. So I'll load that up as well and test it out.

Sadly I left my rear camera cable in my Prius when I let it go for lack of time and energy. So need to order another. Also some new speakers that I left behind that were excellent sounding. Powerbass 2xl coax models that were some of the most well balanced I'd heard. Might install my high end comps in it as I'm not using them currently along with my 12" sub. Not sure the wife and daughter want all that though lol. Probably not.

Having fun though going down the rabbit hole that is xdr on these 7862 head units. Lots of development occurred the last 1.5 years it seems.
https://xdaforums.com/t/general-fyt...s8581a-sc9863-q-a-mods-tips-firmware.4396339/

https://xdaforums.com/t/new-os-coming-for-fyt-devices-dudu-os.4652452/
"(Note that Dudu makes the units for the Chinese BYD cars and is now expanding to FYT as well.)"

 

[Rational]

Hey guys.

Okay. Last night I performed the battery drain down to 7km RR and about 19.5 SOC. Was this low enough?
It was two bars on the GOM. Did it need to be 'under two bars' or 'at two bars'?

I charged it up to full and let it stop on its own and sit thereafter.

I took pictures of my electric meter and here are the start and stop values.
24582.2 to 24598.9 total = 16.7kWh?

That includes everything running in the house at the time as well, which is AC, PCs, fridge, lights, network, and adult toys.

I also took screenshots in different apps to show start and end values.

What particular app screenshots or details do you want to see? Thanks guys.

I had a few cells read high and low values during the heater drain portion and later some were hotter at the end of charging.

I still see 129 on the GOM after this. Curious on next steps to do the active battery smoothing/ battery recalibration stuff if recommended next.

 

[MickeyS70]

Hey guys.

Okay. Last night I performed the battery drain down to 7km RR and about 19.5 SOC. Was this low enough?

20% SoC and 7km RR would mean about 35km @100%, yet it gives you 129km, fully charged?

It was two bars on the GOM. Did it need to be 'under two bars' or 'at two bars'?

You GOM is way out, so it doesn’t really matter

I took pictures of my electric meter and here are the start and stop values.
24582.2 to 24598.9 total = 16.7kWh?

Whatever your current battery capacity is, it’s not 16kWh, as charge efficiency is only around 70%

I had a few cells read high and low values during the heater drain portion and later some were hotter at the end of charging.

Don’t think the battery calibration will work if you ‘interact’ with the car during the charging phase, what app/tool did you use to initiate the procedure?

I still see 129 on the GOM after this. Curious on next steps to do the active battery smoothing/ battery recalibration stuff if recommended next.

Repeat, but don’t touch anything until the charge light on the granny goes out by itself …

 

[Rational]

Don’t think the battery calibration will work if you ‘interact’ with the car during the charging phase, what app/tool did you use to initiate the procedure?

The tool I used was my hand plugging in the charge cable.

I only checked the car with canion before plugging it in and after it had finished it's charge cycle when the light was already out.

Sounds like I did it correctly and don't need to redo it, right? This was the normal deplete and charge cycle kiev had asked if I'd done yet. So this was it.

So next would be the formal reset with an app?

 

[MickeyS70]

Sounds like I did it correctly and don't need to redo it, right? This was the normal deplete and charge cycle kiev had asked if I'd done yet. So this was it.

Sorry, I misunderstood what you were trying to achieve

So next would be the formal reset with an app?

Yes

 

[kiev]

So now with 16 bars on the fuel gauge you are reading 129km (80 miles) on the RR.

How does that compare with previous RR when the pack was full (16 bars)?

80 miles RR seems pretty awesome to me, i doubt there is more to be gained by repeating or doing the MUT version of this same process.

 

[MickeyS70]

80 miles RR seems pretty awesome to me, i doubt there is more to be gained by repeating or doing the MUT version of this same process.

True, but the aim here is the opposite; to correct an impossible battery capacity of 16kWh that the BMU currently calculates with (iirc it was around 10kWh initially)…

 

[kiev]

Doesn't an 88-cell iMiev come with a 16kWh pack?

 

[MickeyS70]

Doesn't an 88-cell iMiev come with a 16kWh pack?

Yes, but not all of the capacity (50Ah) is actually usable, only about 14.5kWh (45Ah) are, same principle applies to any EV:

https://ev-database.org/uk/car/1029/Mitsubishi-i-MiEV

 

[kiev]

Okay, so what is the issue with rational's pack that requires any more calibration or MUT action--it seems that he is getting a righteous RR for a fully charged pack?

Don't see how he could get anymore range.

He should drive it around for a month, then he can drive it down to get the fuel gauge below 2 bars, even down to 1 bar "blinking" and do a full charge until it stops on its own for another calibration charge. That is all the MUT does--drains the pack using the heater, then charges back up and counts coulombs.

 

[MickeyS70]

Okay, so what is the issue with rational's pack that requires any more calibration or MUT action--it seems that he is getting a righteous RR for a fully charged pack?

Go back to post #256/257, somehow the BMU now mistakenly thinks it has a brand new battery (48Ah) installed, but the car doesn’t do anywhere near 80miles on a single charge..

That is all the MUT does--drains the pack using the heater, then charges back up and counts coulombs.

True, but it can make big changes to the pack’s capacity value in the BMU; (not just +/-1Ah the ‘native’ calibration is allowed to do)