Hi everyone....have two 2012 I-Mievs.....need help....

[dweaver]

kiev, two SRS codes set.

FL side ABG squib open

DR seat position SW open

I think I can clear them after checking wiring, fuses, etc.....and then drive it and see what happens?

Any idea what the codes mean?

How do these codes have anything to do with the HV light code originally set?

What in the world?

Thanks,
Dale

 

[dweaver]

Oh sorry....

B1431 FL side ABG squib open

B1506 DR seat position SW open

 

[dweaver]

I cleared the SRS codes.

Drove around.

There's nothing wrong with the car!

So far. So good.

Going to make a longer trip now like my wife did when all of this started.

Taking my i909 with me.

:lol:

Thanks.

 

[dweaver]

Well, Got stuck at the store. Hooked up i909 and cleared the code. Started up.....drove home. Now at home, it starts right back up.

:lol:

I don't know what else to do except switch 12V batteries.....and see what happens.

Thanks,
Dale

 

[kiev]

You can plug in the scanner and leave it in while you drive to monitor the aux battery voltage in the ETACS datastream.

 

[dweaver]

Thanks kiev.

First....since it starts now....I'll put the meter on the 12V and go to ready....and see what it reads. I already did this to raspberry, so I can compare the readings. I'll do it tomorrow. Can't take it anymore today.

If that is no luck....I'll put the raspberry battery in silver and go and see what happens.

These batteries the dealer put in, I think it was last year, are Car Quest dated 1/18.....which might not mean anything.

Forgot to mention....the SRS codes were stored.....not active. But, I have no idea how they got there.

Thanks,
Dale

 

[Don]

What caused the initial P1A15? likely a weak aux battery (since it wasn't being driven regularly or kept on a Yuasa trickle charger). i tested many and Yuasa is the only one to get, the rest are crap.

I've had really good results using Battery Tender Jr's for many years - Are they one of the ones you tested and didn't like?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Battery-Tender-Jr-12V/15779492?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101018350&&adid=22222222227009309680&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=40838771312&wl4=aud-430887228898la-78652250792&wl5=9014046&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=218910898&wl11=online&wl12=15779492&veh=sem&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8fr7BRDSARIsAK0Qqr6SURRmpoSLIaEXXuGhxzALt2IoepJePk8BcF1zPQWgyZJPC9u-WtsaAnXWEALw_wcB

Don

 

[dweaver]

Well, it went like this....

It works!!!!!!!!! It's alive!!!!!

So....got out there this morning....check the V on the Silver Aux.....12.51. This is after I had it charged to over 13V. Thought....go in the garage and check Raspberry.....12.82.

Figured....no point in switching batteries. Took the 12V out of Silver.....went to Advance. I made them check the first one they pulled out date stamped 2019 read 12.55, 89% charge. I said no.....that will not do....can you charge it? They said sure. I went to a paint store and came back. Well, it had a bad cell in it and wouldn't charge and it had a reading of 12.55.....Hmmmmm. They pulled one from the back of the shelf.....date stamped 2020, 100% charge, reading 12.83. I took it.

I'm trying to make a long story short.

Put it in. Drove around the neighborhood.....it went to 13 even. Hmmm.....other battery went down after driving.

Took the long trip back to the store.....with the i909 of course. :lol: It started right back up. Checked the V at home.....reads 13 even.

Pulled out the manual....it says right in the front of the manual....if 12V battery is discharged....the I-Miev will not start and charging the main battery will not work.

Not sure what I'm going to do with the dealer yet....but pretty upset about their incompetence and wanting $4750 which wouldn't even have fixed it. And, the torture they put me through....

kiev, I'm paying you and don't say no. Send me a PM. You only saved me about $5000.

I want to make some more trips before I'm absolutely convinced it's fine.....but....looking good.

I had a big advantage having another 2012 I-Miev that I could compare things to.

Thanks a bunch everyone.

I'll be back.

 

[dweaver]

I have maybe a dumb question.

Why would they make a car that if the 12V battery gets discharged, it sets a code and the car cannot be started again without removing the code?

In other words, what good would jumping the car do when it isn't going to start anyway? Or what good would charging the 12V or replacing it do if the car isn't going to start anyway with the code set?

Something doesn't seem right about this.

They give jumping instructions in the manual.

 

[kiev]

i know it's seems odd that an Electric car can be totally disabled by a low aux battery voltage. In ICE cars we take them for granted, abuse them, and squeeze every last electron out of them, especially in the old days when a little jump would get it running and the alternator could keep everything up to get you home.

Even though the lithium battery is 1000x better than lead, they rely on the simplicity of lead to supply the background power for all the complex control units needed to safely operate the high energy pack. It's a computer on wheels and it's smart enough to know that if the LV power supply can't hold up the system, then it's better to not go to READY than to risk a crash on the highway when the system drops out while making a turn or pulling out into traffic in front of a big truck, or crossing train tracks, etc...

 

[dweaver]

Hi kiev,

It works.

Took a trip. Started right back up.

I'm charging it up now. Noticed after charging the main battery for about a half hour, 12V jumped to 13.08. It works and drives great.

How did you know from the start....there's nothing wrong with the car and that it was likely the 12V battery? Did I give you enough dealer information? :lol:

I would assume the stored SRS codes were from when they pulled the drivers seat to replace the main battery under warranty last year.

Wow....what an experience. I never wanted to know this much about an EV. I guess now is a good time to learn though.

You da man. I am impressed.

Thank you.

How can I help the forum? I could join and post pics?

Send me a PM please.

Dale

 

[Don]

I would hazard to guess that over the years here, whenever we read about really weird, unusual problems with our iMiEV's, at least 90% of the time it ends up being a problem caused by the 12 volt battery - It's almost to the point where you can just advise "If your battery is more than 3 or 4 years old, just replace it with a new one and see if that doesn't solve your problem" . . . . and, usually it does

The OEM batteries were pretty darned good - We didn't see very many of these problems until 2017 or later, when the original batteries were beginning to get old. Since then, many lower quality batteries have been installed by owners, largely because getting another OEM battery from the dealer is so expensive - An aftermarket battery can begin to cause problems when it's only 2 or 3 years old. Suffice it to say, the car is very particular about the 12 volt battery and it's been the cause of literally dozens of unusual problems

Don

 

[dweaver]

Thanks Don, you guys and gals are the greatest.

 

[dweaver]

Well, it's been one week. It's all good. It works. I can't believe it but it works.

jray, my wife said I should go buy myself something. :lol:

I'm going to drive silver over to the dealer and sit there outside the garage and service dept.. and let it evolve. I want to see what they say and how they respond. I'm going to be positive about it and tell them it's fixed by an icarsoft i909 and new 12V battery, and see what happens.



Thanks all.
Dale

 

[dweaver]

Darn....it happened again. My wife drove over to my daughters. Wouldn't start, i light on.

I went over, cleared code, started up and drove home.

At home, 12V aux checked at 12.77.....all good. Raspberry usually reads 12.82.

I started it right back up.

It's intermittent.

I decided to start and shut off several times in a row to see what would happen. On about the 5th time, even after the relays clicked off, it failed with the i light warning. I cleared it, stated right back up.

It's pretty frustrating. But, at least I'm not getting towed. :lol:

I don't know what to think or try.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Dale

 

[DBMandrake]

yea i've always thought the cost of the scanner was like one visit to the dealer, and anytime it can be used to save a trip is money staying in your wallet.

i don't think that SRS codes can be cleared for some reason, likely liability and safety concerns. There is lots of airbags in these cars. Did you have the airbag recall work done recently?

Might just be a limitation of iCarsoft - I've cleared Airbag fault codes with Diagbox before on my Ion after setting them due to removing the front left seat to get at the isolator plug. (Since you have to unplug the airbags in the seat to remove the seat...)

 

[dweaver]

I drove it some more. Starts right back up.

I just started it and shut it down about 50 times in a row.

kiev, when it failed on me yesterday, I heard all of the relay clicking and I believe contactors also, then it failed, wouldn't go to ready, and set the i light.

Maybe it's failing in the MCU?

Thanks,

Dale

 

[jray3]

Congrats Dale. Well, it does seem that spouses are sometimes the hardest of all to impress. Whether you go buy yourself something or await higher returns, she knows you just saved a bundle!

 

[kiev]

...

At home, 12V aux checked at 12.77.....all good. Raspberry usually reads 12.82.

I started it right back up.

It's intermittent.

I decided to start and shut off several times in a row to see what would happen. On about the 5th time, even after the relays clicked off, it failed with the i light warning. I cleared it, stated right back up.

Remind me about what code is set that you are clearing.

Sounds to me that the 12V aux is not getting fully charged, especially when you do the quick ON/OFF. That's the clue that it just doesn't hold it's mud when after 5 quick starts it laid down on you.

You might want to check the voltage after starting to see if it is being charged at 14.4. Maybe the DC/DC converter is having an issue.

But the real remedy is to charge the aux. But if it ever got left discharged for even 3 days it can sulfate the plates and cause permanent damage. There is a whole section on 12V care in the OBC Troubleshooting thread, post #2.

i use a Yuasa1A charger that will take it up to 14.4, then drops the current back so it doesn't overcharge. Did you see the picture of the voltage on my aux--that thing is over 3 yrs old.

 

[dweaver]

Hi kiev, It starts right up everyday. no more failures.

So....I checked the aux after driving the other day, it was 13.10. Its charging fine.

I checked while on ready....14.42.

The problem was intermittent....whatever it was.

Maybe a relay? If it fails again....I could pull the relays and put a meter on them. Maybe contactors? I don't know.

The DTC was P1A15.

Thanks,
Dale