Hi everyone....have two 2012 I-Mievs.....need help....

[kiev]

On the positive terminal of the aux battery is a red plastic cover. That holds many of the fusible links for various circuits. Remove the aux battery and the plastic clip holding the positive cable so you can get in there and check each of the fusible links for continuity.

 

[dweaver]

Hi kenny, I did check all of the fuses on the positive 12V battery terminal visually yesterday while charging the Aux.. There is 6 of them total that I saw. They look good.

And, everything inside and outside the I-Miev works, power windows, locks, radio, dash board lights, headlights, everything....It just wont start.

I only checked the fuses visually.

Thanks,
Dale

 

[dweaver]

Also, the car will not charge.

Seems like there has to be codes. But dealer says no codes.

????

Am I the first one ever? No codes. WTF?

Something is strange about all of this.

You all have a great weekend.

Dale

 

[dweaver]

Just for info and reference....

This is off my receipt dated 7/08/19....when they had to replace the main battery under warranty. (I understand this only has a 3% failure rate) anyway....

Codes set....

P1A2F in EV-ECU....and code P1A4B in BMU opened TEC H Line. Whatever that all means.

They told me the job was 13,000.....11,000 for the battery and the rest labor. All done under warranty. They had to have it shipped from Calif. the battery which comes in a pak....which includes a jack....comes in some kind of package.

Dale

 

[kiev]

It may be that you will need to use a meter to measure fuses and voltage; i find it easier to remove the aux battery to get it out of the way, for example

a fully charged 12V aux voltage with the blue and green relays on the side (some are important to run)

There are 4 Fusible links visible behind the Positive terminal block; the 2 120A links can be seen from the top

The relay and fuse cover shows the locations (check everything in there)

The most important fuses for the EV-ECU and OBC to get powered up

If you don't find anything obviously open circuit here, then maybe the key switch contacts are frosted over and not making contact?

 

[Don]

It may be that you will need to use a meter to measure fuses and voltage;

I agree - Troubleshooting electronics *visually* doesn't guarantee much. When you check each item off the list as a possible cause, you need to *know* it's not the cause and not just that it looks OK

Don

 

[dweaver]

Thanks guys. Checked fuses with meter....all good.

Tried another kiev suggestion. Put meter on battery, had wife go to start....nothing. Did the same on Raspberry....V jumped to 14.4.

Waiting for the code reader.....should be here Thursday.

Thanks,
Dale

 

[kiev]

So you pulled and checked all the fuses? Like number 3 also?

What about the Blue relays, 1,2, and Main? Do you hear anyof the relays up front click when you turn the Key to ACC, to ON and to START?

 

[dweaver]

I'll get back to you.

Thanks.

 

[dweaver]

P1A15 set.

Scanned EVC....says high voltage circuit (1)

Should I clear it and see what happens?

 

[dweaver]

Hi kiev, Yes....pulled the fuses.

 

[kiev]

Sure, and be sure to listen for relays and contactors clicking in the pack when you go to start. We have a thread for the P1A15 DTC, which is due to the "condenser" or big capacitor in the MCU not reaching the required voltage in an expected time.
http://myimiev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=4225

 

[dweaver]

Hi kiev, I can't remove the fault code. Also, the i909 won't let me use the ob2diagnose optional mode, only the diagnose mode. ?

Anyway, I don't hear any relays, and the car won't charge or start

The only thing I haven't tried that I could try would be to switch aux. batteries.

Maybe it is the MCU? I did scan it though and no DTC. ?

Thanks.

 

[kiev]

Okay you can use the i909 to read the voltage of the Main Pack and also the Min and Max Cell voltage. It should all be okay since you have a replacement pack, but doesn't hurt to check.

In addition there are DataStream Items that can be checked for the status of the main contactors, whether they are being commanded and if they respond and if they are welded. i think that is in the DS list for the EV-ECU.

The OBDII Diagnose menu is used to determine which OBD protocol the car uses; it is not used or needed.

It will read the 12V aux battery voltage for you but i don't recall where that DI is located.

i don't understand when you say it won't clear the P1A15 code? There is a menu item to read the codes, then another to clear the codes.

 

[dweaver]

Hi kiev, thanks.

The i909 gives me the option to delete the set code by checking yes or no, but there isn't any yes or no button. I just press OK and it says it's deleted.....but it's still there. Maybe because it's a serious permanent fault?

How would I put my VIN into a replacement MCU?

I'll keep trying.

Thanks.

 

[kiev]

The Key must be in ON or READY to run the scanner.

Once you get thru the select make model year, then press okay while on the Diagnose menu item.

Then Manual Select, and Read DataSteam.

The 12V aux Voltage is read in the ETACS DataStream Item List.

Welded Contactors are in the EV-ECU list.

Cell Min Max Voltages are in the BMU list.

To select items to read:
Select the ECU from the list,
Then scroll thu the list and press OK to get a whole page or scroll down to just the one you want, then press OK, use the right and left arrow to move to next page. When done selecting what you want to see, then press ESC to activate reading the data.

i think to clear a code, you use this same select and activate sequence:
Select clear code, then move down or left or right button to the one to the one you want to clear and press OK to select it, then press ESC to activate the clear command, maybe press OK to activate? i'm not 100% sure as i had no codes to clear to test it.

 

[dweaver]

Ok, I'm not too excited yet. Not celebrating yet.

I went to work with the i909 this morning. Comparing readings from Silver to Raspberry.

I cleared the i code. Light went off. I thought, after checking everything and comparing everything, all numbers between silver and raspberry....there was nothing wrong. I mean I went through everything....taking pics of readings with my phone.

I kept thinking what kiev kept saying....nothing is wrong with the car.

I sat there in silver looking at a normal lit up dash....and wondered....nah.....couldn't be....

Turned the key....ding ding ding....

I took off driving.

But....the SRS light is on. That wasn't on before.

Not sure what is going on there....but I am pretty upset about the dealer and $4750 estimate. I had to pay towing back home and a $120 diagnostic fee for worthless diagnostics.....and to be told.....no codes were set.

But I'm scared to drive it far.

On to the SRS light.

 

[kiev]

yea i've always thought the cost of the scanner was like one visit to the dealer, and anytime it can be used to save a trip is money staying in your wallet.

i don't think that SRS codes can be cleared for some reason, likely liability and safety concerns. There is lots of airbags in these cars. Did you have the airbag recall work done recently?

Most likely is wiring or connector issue (rodent chewing wires or corrosion of contacts in connector, etc), but that can be difficult and a pain to find. At least you know there is no need to $pend on a new MCU.

 

[dweaver]

kiev, forgot to mention it charges too.

Supposedly, they already did an SRS recall.....years ago.

I am wondering if the 12V aux. was low and caused all of these problems. We don't drive it that much.

I dread taking it back to that dealer. I want a refund for diagnostic work and towing.

I'm going to contact the owner....I know her. I have to make sure nothing is seriously wrong though.

I just don't understand.....why would they tell me no codes set?....and didn't print any on the receipt.....and told me ac to dc inverter for $4750.

I hate to think the worst.....could be just incompetence.

Thanks again.

I'll keep you all updated

Dale

 

[kiev]

Don't know if it is worth hassling them. They probably did read the P1A15 code, which indicates the solution is to replace the MCU. The service manager doesn't know anything about codes or ecus, and just reported what the mechanic found--bad MCU. It sounds like the SM is not detail-oriented and prone to make up stuff too to cover his butt. Can't get a consistent story from SM every time you talk to them.

What caused the initial P1A15? likely a weak aux battery (since it wasn't being driven regularly or kept on a Yuasa trickle charger). i tested many and Yuasa is the only one to get, the rest are crap.