My thoughts were exactly that too, oops. If its CAN it should not matter but somehow it did and theres way too many combinations to try changing the boards around to get the right order, So it went on a trailer and I burnt some diesel to get it to a local shop to fix
Battery pack change plans
- Thread starter alviseven
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Hindsight is great but if you had just one CMU connected to CAN at the time you could have gotten its ID via OBD and then matched it to the layout..
alviseven
Well-known member
More progress
Have taken the battery pack out of the 2011 black car which had to be done but still rather scary to take the pack out of a car I had driven into the garage!
Today I have stripped off the lid which was far more difficult than the low mileage car as it was much more rusty and many more bolts either seized or had to be cut off. However I have enough parts from the two cars to make one decent pack.
Have managed to remove one 4 battery pack and lifted the lid to reveal what I think are green BMS units which confirms that they are different to the red ones from the 2010 white car I stripped last month. This does for me confirm that the round pin type isolation plug matches the red boards and the square pin type isolation plug matches the green units. The electronics inside seem to be different too as the plugs are in different places and even the battery packs have different plugs on them.
Next job seems to be to strip each battery pack and change just the batteries and then reassemble into one unit which I hope will work.
Even managed to get another car into the garage under cover by raising the ramp to get all the imiev parts up in the air out of the way for now. Tight squeeze but useful to get it inside.
Am I correct in my naming of the BMS being green - the others were definitely a pink colour.
The base plastic section seems to be identical but the electronics are all different so assume I could change all these over too if I wanted to have a less rusty unit.
Feel more positive now I have done this and on the way to reassembly - just got to get it to work
Have taken the battery pack out of the 2011 black car which had to be done but still rather scary to take the pack out of a car I had driven into the garage!
Today I have stripped off the lid which was far more difficult than the low mileage car as it was much more rusty and many more bolts either seized or had to be cut off. However I have enough parts from the two cars to make one decent pack.
Have managed to remove one 4 battery pack and lifted the lid to reveal what I think are green BMS units which confirms that they are different to the red ones from the 2010 white car I stripped last month. This does for me confirm that the round pin type isolation plug matches the red boards and the square pin type isolation plug matches the green units. The electronics inside seem to be different too as the plugs are in different places and even the battery packs have different plugs on them.
Next job seems to be to strip each battery pack and change just the batteries and then reassemble into one unit which I hope will work.
Even managed to get another car into the garage under cover by raising the ramp to get all the imiev parts up in the air out of the way for now. Tight squeeze but useful to get it inside.
Am I correct in my naming of the BMS being green - the others were definitely a pink colour.
The base plastic section seems to be identical but the electronics are all different so assume I could change all these over too if I wanted to have a less rusty unit.
Feel more positive now I have done this and on the way to reassembly - just got to get it to work
Attachments
Good job, yes, the CMU pcbs are green and not compatible with the red/pink of other pack.
What is guaranteed to work is replacing all the individual cells of this pack with the ones removed earlier, but this will take time and you end up with a rusty cage.
To speed things up it may be possible to move the 12 models (10x8, 2x4) ‘en block’ before swapping the CMU boards.
If the battery cage is identical then it makes sense to re-use the old (less rusty) one.
Don’t bin the pink CMU boards, they may yet save another triplet from the scrap yard…
What is guaranteed to work is replacing all the individual cells of this pack with the ones removed earlier, but this will take time and you end up with a rusty cage.
To speed things up it may be possible to move the 12 models (10x8, 2x4) ‘en block’ before swapping the CMU boards.
If the battery cage is identical then it makes sense to re-use the old (less rusty) one.
Don’t bin the pink CMU boards, they may yet save another triplet from the scrap yard…
Yes I agree please do not throw away any imiev CMU boards, a local EV shop here in Perth Western Australia had a hard time (6months) trying to find a few red CMU boards
you can change the CMU boards over easily rather than cells themselves, I am unsure if the alternate color CMUs will work with the wiring from one pack to another though,. Do yourself a favour and number the boards/block modules and map where they are in the battery. I did not do this and had to get an EV shop to re-number them to suit the way I installed them for a fee. I have heard it should not matter but for a little effort you can guarantee that it wont be an issue
The cages/battery enclosures are likely 2 different types. The red CMUs are usually in the cases that have screw nut inserts into the fiberglass base, while the green CMUs are usually in the more modern steel clamp frames that "pinch/squeeze" the top and bottom fiberglass sections together. that would line up I guess with the steel being rusted for the bolts etc with the new pack just pulled. I dont know if the CMUs can swap across with the different sensor attached to the HV service isolator, you may want to run the entire harness with all the correct sensors from the case of whichever CMUs you are planning to use.
alviseven
Well-known member
Have looked carefully and started to reassemble a power-packed for my car. The low mileage car base unit has the same code on the underside and is piscine compared to my car and has one sheared bolt not about 20! So using this but the electronics are different however these unscrew quite easily six bolts and the connected cables pull through the large rubber grommet easily and have transplanted completely
Started to change over the red bms straight swap and yes I have numbered every cell and cmu and swapping like fir like exactly. All the cells measured seem to have similar voltage and are higher o the replacement set and even the individual cells seem pretty even on couple I've measured
Got five pack built and installed. Going to re use the original car top cover as different moulding number and shape of isolation socket donor car steel work and any else including the early lower cover which seems to cover up more and is in better shape too.
Feel more hopeful this might work. Video to follow
What are the two ceramic white fuses on uk red side of car that feed the orange power cable to the front? Not the massive one on ns?
Will loosely reassemble the donor car pack as easier to store parts under the car than in garage!
My battery cages are identical but the small 4 pack ones have some plastic connectors attached from the donor loom the original tired batteries are gradually being mated with the red bms units and central electrics which I assume match the earlier charger
Started to change over the red bms straight swap and yes I have numbered every cell and cmu and swapping like fir like exactly. All the cells measured seem to have similar voltage and are higher o the replacement set and even the individual cells seem pretty even on couple I've measured
Got five pack built and installed. Going to re use the original car top cover as different moulding number and shape of isolation socket donor car steel work and any else including the early lower cover which seems to cover up more and is in better shape too.
Feel more hopeful this might work. Video to follow
What are the two ceramic white fuses on uk red side of car that feed the orange power cable to the front? Not the massive one on ns?
Will loosely reassemble the donor car pack as easier to store parts under the car than in garage!
My battery cages are identical but the small 4 pack ones have some plastic connectors attached from the donor loom the original tired batteries are gradually being mated with the red bms units and central electrics which I assume match the earlier charger
alviseven
Well-known member
My cases identical both bolt into base case so luck may be on my side this time
Bms just unscrew lots of these unclipped and transpose to new cells
A well balanced pack has differences in the mV range, the car is able to balance the cells afterwards but that will take time depending on how far they are apart.
Maybe best to connect the two 4 packs in series and parallel to them with the remaining 8 packs to create a 8s11p string and leave them for 24h to ‘bench equalise’ before installing them.
alviseven
Well-known member
Pack now assembled and ready to refit to the car - most cells when volt meter put over them read very similar to each other mostly around 3.56 to 3.60 volts depending on pack - considering this pack have not been in use since march and was charging funny with a dodgy red BMS unit I reckon this is ok but just praying that with a new control front battery the On board charger will be fine when I get the thing hooked up
Robbed all the best bolts, steel straps etc from the two boxes to make one decent box and will use the earlier rubber shroud underneath since it seems to both cover more and is less broken!
Robbed all the best bolts, steel straps etc from the two boxes to make one decent box and will use the earlier rubber shroud underneath since it seems to both cover more and is less broken!
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Fingers crossed, just make sure you charge the new 12V battery fully before you install it, as if your OBC is faulty your Aux may have to power all low voltage systems on it’s own.
alviseven
Well-known member
Having trouble locating a part number or supply of the front control battery - mine is devoid of any markings at all. Positive terminal post is front right and is about 15mm diameter with 225mm height over the terminals main dimensions are length 185mm and width 125mm.
See image
Have a second battery from the white spares car but this is different and has smaller terminals and clamps. However it does give me a 330CCA and 40Ah rating so I assume my needed battery should be the same. Did find a supply of bosch battery code S4030 S4 054 which seems to match this an about to query the terminal post size.
Anyone able to recommend a battery?
See image
Have a second battery from the white spares car but this is different and has smaller terminals and clamps. However it does give me a 330CCA and 40Ah rating so I assume my needed battery should be the same. Did find a supply of bosch battery code S4030 S4 054 which seems to match this an about to query the terminal post size.
Anyone able to recommend a battery?
Attachments
alviseven
Well-known member
Solved the battery issue but changing the power cables over from the scrap car as I gather from my battery supplier that the smaller JAP type terminals are more common on an 054 type battery than the larger DIN type
alviseven
Well-known member
Have now got a working car again with the everything lighting up and movement possible but... The pack I have fitted is clearly flat and has very little charge and my old OBC charger issue is still present which is a pain. So next step is to now try to repair this. I know that the pack did charge up on the chademo but there is not even enough charge to consider trying to get to the local one here so ...
Do I have to drain the air con system to get the OBC out?
Some positives since the battery pack went back into the car lovely and easily and everything works which is major positive but the lack of a working OBC is a sad step back - was hoping that the state of the old pack was the real issue with the charger and with a decent front battery all would work well!
Next stage of my learning now commences I guess!
Do I have to drain the air con system to get the OBC out?
Some positives since the battery pack went back into the car lovely and easily and everything works which is major positive but the lack of a working OBC is a sad step back - was hoping that the state of the old pack was the real issue with the charger and with a decent front battery all would work well!
Next stage of my learning now commences I guess!
No.
You don't need to remove the OBC to repair it either, see the OBC Troubleshooting and Repair thread for examples and details of numerous repairs.
alviseven
Well-known member
have worked my way through some of the OBC repair thread and think this is what I have and might be dealing with.
I think I have an external EMI filter doghouse which was on top of the OBC charger box and unbolted from the lid complete
When I opened the OBC lid I have light scorch marks on the lid above the middle right hand set of windings and a smell of burning. This is similar but nowhere near as prominent marked as the one on the thread which credits coulomb for the high temp indicators.
SO far I have got but now I am lost -
[Mod edit: Note that this is a 9499xxxxx OBC with the EMI filter box attached]
I think I have an external EMI filter doghouse which was on top of the OBC charger box and unbolted from the lid complete
When I opened the OBC lid I have light scorch marks on the lid above the middle right hand set of windings and a smell of burning. This is similar but nowhere near as prominent marked as the one on the thread which credits coulomb for the high temp indicators.
SO far I have got but now I am lost -
[Mod edit: Note that this is a 9499xxxxx OBC with the EMI filter box attached]
Attachments
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Maybe too late to recommend to Brush all that dirt off, and then hose it down and let it dry before you remove the cover and open it up.
i read thru the OBC thread about 3 times and tried to pull links to the important stuff for an Index to help find the good stuff quickly without needing to read it all--but the link references don't work properly with the new forum software. Every time i try to follow a link it folds back to the first post on page 1.
But some Good News--they do work from the OBC Index Thread on the Aussie EV forum site, linked in the first post of that thread in this forum, and Here, AEVA forum index
i read thru the OBC thread about 3 times and tried to pull links to the important stuff for an Index to help find the good stuff quickly without needing to read it all--but the link references don't work properly with the new forum software. Every time i try to follow a link it folds back to the first post on page 1.
But some Good News--they do work from the OBC Index Thread on the Aussie EV forum site, linked in the first post of that thread in this forum, and Here, AEVA forum index
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alviseven
Well-known member
I did brush off and air hose it before I opened it - promise - not hosed down would not be that brave!
Am I right with the external EBI and does that mean that the car has had a replacement OBC at some point?
I will try to find this aussie OBC thread in a bit.
Do the scorch marks mean this is my issue or just that this bit got hot and still could be anything wrong? Think I partly exacerbated the issue with the front control battery which is now dead after being not used for couple of months and will not take any charge hence the change to the smaller terminal type which I gather from the OBC thread may have blown the OBC in the first place - started to recognise some of the symptoms!
Many thanks
