Hello EV loving colleagues
I have been driving an i-miev since July 2019, love it, unfortunately someone wrote it off in 2021! ☹️
Loved it so much I bought another identical one (AFAIK) and have been driving that until now.
Started seeing the turtle recently and it eventually resulted in the car being undrivable (unsafe) due to the very hilly area I live in, turtle mode could result in stopping completely in traffic on some of the hills/ramps encountered on my daily drive. 😬
Luckily I did manage to buy my old crashed (unroadworthy) i-miev back from the insurers due to it only having 14500 miles on the clock.
So (you can see where this is going) I decided that a traction pack swap was the best idea. To solve the issue and get me back on the road ASAP. I need the car for school runs and work, both small journeys, round trip of approx 15 miles.
Back in 2013 I converted a Honda Beat into an EV and drove that as my daily driver for 2 years, so I was up for a pack swap and am quite used to working with HV traction batteries, been driving EVs around 11 years now, converted Honda Beat, Mia, Kia Soul EV, i-miev (crashed), i-miev (current), and most recently a Jag i-pace. We are a two car family so they are not all mine!
Anyway back to my issue, following the complete removal, swap of traction packs I am faced with a flashing fuel indicator (on LCD), red aux battery light, and orange service warning light, and no charge bars are shown at all! This is despite me knowing that the pack from my old car (14500 miles only) was in good condition. After using OBDLink with canion app I got the status of the newly fitted pack and it looks great 0.2v difference across all cells.
In desperation and after watching several tube vids on the subject I decided a full electronics swap between packs was the best chance of success, maybe the electronics in the car was somehow coded to the traction pack, or just incompatible, anyway after meticulously swapping every BMS board on every cell pack and swapping the complete electronics sets between packs and refitting to test I am still in exactly the same place, no charge bars, flashing fuel LCD, red batt light, orange service light!
What am I doing wrong here?
I have today managed to get carscanner app working with OBDLink dongle and can now read/clear diag codes. But still no progress, currently disconnected 12v battery to see if this helps.
Car scanner initially showed 45 (historical) errors, after clearing all and rereading it now shows 15
U11AB 0xD1AB
U11AA 0xD1AA
U11A9 0xD1A9
U11A8 0xD1A8
U11A7 0xD1A7
U11A6 0xD1A6
U11A5 0xD1A5
U11A4 0xD1A4
U11A3 0xD1A3
U11A2 0xD1A2
U11A1 0xD1A1
U11A0 0xD1A0
P1AAB 0x1AAB
The last one seems to have something to do with HV interlock?
VIN numbers are JMALDHA3WBU000217 for the old crashed donar car and JMALDHA3WBU000297 for the car I am trying to fix.
Can anyone suggest what to try next? 12v battery was @ 12.2v (connected with car on) so I tried a second 12v battery slaved using jumper cables and this then boosted it to 12.5v (read from OBDzero I think) is this high enough? Still no change. HELP!
Do I need a scan tool of some type? To perform some sort of reset or commissioning? If so does anyone know a good choice for the i-miev?
I have been driving an i-miev since July 2019, love it, unfortunately someone wrote it off in 2021! ☹️
Loved it so much I bought another identical one (AFAIK) and have been driving that until now.
Started seeing the turtle recently and it eventually resulted in the car being undrivable (unsafe) due to the very hilly area I live in, turtle mode could result in stopping completely in traffic on some of the hills/ramps encountered on my daily drive. 😬
Luckily I did manage to buy my old crashed (unroadworthy) i-miev back from the insurers due to it only having 14500 miles on the clock.
So (you can see where this is going) I decided that a traction pack swap was the best idea. To solve the issue and get me back on the road ASAP. I need the car for school runs and work, both small journeys, round trip of approx 15 miles.
Back in 2013 I converted a Honda Beat into an EV and drove that as my daily driver for 2 years, so I was up for a pack swap and am quite used to working with HV traction batteries, been driving EVs around 11 years now, converted Honda Beat, Mia, Kia Soul EV, i-miev (crashed), i-miev (current), and most recently a Jag i-pace. We are a two car family so they are not all mine!
Anyway back to my issue, following the complete removal, swap of traction packs I am faced with a flashing fuel indicator (on LCD), red aux battery light, and orange service warning light, and no charge bars are shown at all! This is despite me knowing that the pack from my old car (14500 miles only) was in good condition. After using OBDLink with canion app I got the status of the newly fitted pack and it looks great 0.2v difference across all cells.
In desperation and after watching several tube vids on the subject I decided a full electronics swap between packs was the best chance of success, maybe the electronics in the car was somehow coded to the traction pack, or just incompatible, anyway after meticulously swapping every BMS board on every cell pack and swapping the complete electronics sets between packs and refitting to test I am still in exactly the same place, no charge bars, flashing fuel LCD, red batt light, orange service light!
What am I doing wrong here?
I have today managed to get carscanner app working with OBDLink dongle and can now read/clear diag codes. But still no progress, currently disconnected 12v battery to see if this helps.
Car scanner initially showed 45 (historical) errors, after clearing all and rereading it now shows 15
U11AB 0xD1AB
U11AA 0xD1AA
U11A9 0xD1A9
U11A8 0xD1A8
U11A7 0xD1A7
U11A6 0xD1A6
U11A5 0xD1A5
U11A4 0xD1A4
U11A3 0xD1A3
U11A2 0xD1A2
U11A1 0xD1A1
U11A0 0xD1A0
P1AAB 0x1AAB
The last one seems to have something to do with HV interlock?
VIN numbers are JMALDHA3WBU000217 for the old crashed donar car and JMALDHA3WBU000297 for the car I am trying to fix.
Can anyone suggest what to try next? 12v battery was @ 12.2v (connected with car on) so I tried a second 12v battery slaved using jumper cables and this then boosted it to 12.5v (read from OBDzero I think) is this high enough? Still no change. HELP!
Do I need a scan tool of some type? To perform some sort of reset or commissioning? If so does anyone know a good choice for the i-miev?
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