alviseven
Well-known member
Been using the insulated tools nearly all day being very careful. Thanks not planning to strip to cells unless I need to at moment.
Battery pack change plans
- Thread starter alviseven
- Start date
Help Support Mitsubishi i-MiEV Forum:
If have same color is not easy to switch entire battery without moving modules( cell+ slaves BMS) ? Or switch only Main BMS between then packs ?
That’s cell 5, connecting to CMU on the main board..
Yes, if they’re the same take the CMU3 from the 2011 car and put it into this pack. Simple enough with your setup to check communication before you put everything back together
1. position the 2010 pack under the 2011 or 2010 car
2. leave lid off (just in case)
3. bring car close to pack so you can connect data cables and earth
4. connect 12V aux
5. turn key to ON
6. fuel gauge should show bars
7. check cell balancing with OBDZero
i bought some SDI cells to evaluate this same approach. Unfortunately,
The bottom of the pack housing has molded ribs that create the "trays" to hold the modules. The SDI cells are too tall to fit between the ribs (the cells are mounted on their side).
It is such a shame because the SDI are great cells.
Last edited:
coulomb
Well-known member
It's the one that can be accessed via the cell-to-cell bars. You just need 9 connections for 8 cells (2 ends and 7 cell-to-cell connections): 5 via the main board, 4 via this extension board.
alviseven
Well-known member
been out on the car again to try to read the DTC codes. Using the same wireless dongle as the OBzero app uses on my phone no issues cannot get either hobdrive or carscanner apps to connect to the car.
Wondered if I was doing silly but the car ignition is on as per instructions but it tries to connect with car scanner and even pulls up imiev but then drops out when it tries to connect for real.
Have now taken the battery packs out of the other battery case since I cannot move it without doing this. So now have a nice stack of them and the tray stored.
Have also been looking at the way the working car is not charging.
Not sure I have the range left to get to the local chademo but might try it tomorrow but it will be really tight to get car home if the thing does not work.
However have been doing some research on here and youtube about the charger.
My car appears to charge and fires up and connects no issue and then seems to whine at least twice before then dropping out with a yellow car with exclamation mark on it which I assume is the car telling me it has a battery fault.
Why should my charger seem to start and work and the air con come on and then seem to charge before dropping out? Surely if the charger is actually charging to start with it is more likely to be ok?
Would like to read any DTC codes before taking the original battery tray out.
Wondered if I was doing silly but the car ignition is on as per instructions but it tries to connect with car scanner and even pulls up imiev but then drops out when it tries to connect for real.
Have now taken the battery packs out of the other battery case since I cannot move it without doing this. So now have a nice stack of them and the tray stored.
Have also been looking at the way the working car is not charging.
Not sure I have the range left to get to the local chademo but might try it tomorrow but it will be really tight to get car home if the thing does not work.
However have been doing some research on here and youtube about the charger.
My car appears to charge and fires up and connects no issue and then seems to whine at least twice before then dropping out with a yellow car with exclamation mark on it which I assume is the car telling me it has a battery fault.
Why should my charger seem to start and work and the air con come on and then seem to charge before dropping out? Surely if the charger is actually charging to start with it is more likely to be ok?
Would like to read any DTC codes before taking the original battery tray out.
i've had good luck with the i909 scan tool. It used to cost much less, ouch!
i909 scanner
There may be others available that will do the job. i like the direct wired approach to avoid phones, wifi and blueteeth from jamming me up when i want to get the data.
i909 scanner
There may be others available that will do the job. i like the direct wired approach to avoid phones, wifi and blueteeth from jamming me up when i want to get the data.
I can’t get my cheap, “OBDZero approved” dongle to work with car scanner/IMiev combo either although it works fine for other cars?
It does however display DTCs with HobDrive but (if I remember correctly) you need the paid version to have access to the correct IMiev profile (vehicle ECU type: Mitsubishi iMiev Li-ION)
I was sure you had a pallet truck in your workshop to move the HV packs about. Might be worth to make a sturdy frame on wheels to be able to position the packs accurately and be able to mix and match the chassis?
Make sure you bring a universal charging cable, aka tow rope with you when you drive to the CHAdeMON charger, better to have a plan B if things don’t work out..
alviseven
Well-known member
Thanks for the feedback on the dongle - will investigate hobdrive further but it would not even connect when I tried let along search which carscanner would do.
I dont have a pallet truck but do have other wheeled trollies but the issue is that I do not have a 2 post ramp so the access underneath the ramp is limited once the battery pack is on the main deck as it will not fit through the centre section onto a trolley or wheels. Did consider using an engine crane to lift the whole section out but did not have the headroom or it was tight last time - perhaps next....
Tow rope and tow vehicle are already booked which is partly why I have not been up already! I assume that if it does charge fine on the chademo then the DC DC unit is iffy?
Last edited:
HobDrive isn’t very intuitive to setup/use but the paid version seems to be only android app that works with almost any dongle and a triplet.
The OBC has two functions: AC/DC section to charge the HV battery using an AC supply, DC/DC part that tops up your 12V aux when READY.
Therefore yes, if CHAdeMON works, the OBC is the primary suspect..
alviseven
Well-known member
Managed to get the car to the local chademo as thought I had just enough to get there and back if needed. Arrived and plugged in and initially the car then refused to charge or connect. Briefly started and then got a yellow car with exclamation mark on dash.
Sat for five minutes and tried again - this time it did charge and was not certain it was charging so stopped it and was sent a bill for 61p for 0.81Kw so then knew it was working.
Started the charger again and it then worked for 21 mins before dropping out on its own accord using 1.571Kw costing me 1.18GBP
The charge had gone from three bars on the dial to about 6/7 so assume that the chademo thought that this was 80% of the battery and so it stopped. Did not think to restart again as I was only glad that I had more charge than when I started and could get home!
This I think from what has been discussed proves I currently have a problem with the OBC which similarly dropped out again when I got home although it did plug in and I had three whines on the I assume aircon before it gave me the flashing yellow car with ! mark.
Next question is can I try to repair the OBC similar to the way I have seen on this forum or do all of them have different issues and can I measure anything to see what is the issue?
Secondly is there anyway I can test the OBC or swap the OBC from the white car - which has no black box with indicator lights with the "working" black car with the brick type charge lead?
finally even though the chademo clearly was working am I correct in my assumption that the battery pack is not the best when it drops out at 80% charged and is still two bars below the mid point of the scale.
Was very pleased I had tried this and managed to get to the chademo - thank you for the advice
IMHO the best way to start would be to read out DTCs to pinpoint the OBC issue
Yes, it would be time consuming but a sure way is to replace the white car’s CMU3 (if same colour) re-connect it and test the OBC in situ.
Yes, some of the cells with high impedance will reach 4.1V very quickly and stop the charging process prematurely.
alviseven
Well-known member
Have now managed to use the car a little bit more using the local chademo. Still cannot get anything to read the DTCs and no one I have contacted seems to know anything that will connect. Local garage, couple of ebay suppliers and number of personal contacts all drawn blank. Have tried hobdrive and carscanner but will not connect via the dongle I have which does work with OBDzero.
However have found that the chademo will charge but only to about 5 bars at most before dropping out with yellow exclamation car symbol. at most I can only get 1.6KWH to the battery before it drops out and will not restart charge which surely means that the battery is poor - nothing I do not know! However does this there might be a chance that the OBC is actually working but just cannot charge the current tired battery - i know I need the DTC but at the moment I am stuck. Even if I wanted to get the local dealer this is a 42 mile round trip and was a struggle when I first had the car!
Research is ongoing - got to purchase a mitsubishi reader which does outlanders and alike and "claims" to do imiev but got to be worth a 30GBP risk?
However have found that the chademo will charge but only to about 5 bars at most before dropping out with yellow exclamation car symbol. at most I can only get 1.6KWH to the battery before it drops out and will not restart charge which surely means that the battery is poor - nothing I do not know! However does this there might be a chance that the OBC is actually working but just cannot charge the current tired battery - i know I need the DTC but at the moment I am stuck. Even if I wanted to get the local dealer this is a 42 mile round trip and was a struggle when I first had the car!
Research is ongoing - got to purchase a mitsubishi reader which does outlanders and alike and "claims" to do imiev but got to be worth a 30GBP risk?
frank1
Active member
have you tried cleevely ? down the m5 in cheltenham ?
I’ve come to the conclusion that HobDrive doesn’t seem work with the free version; although there is an I-MIEV profile it’s not the correct one.
CHAdeMon doesn’t use the OBC (at least not the AC/DC section) and delivers DC power straight to the HV pack, this wouldn’t work either if there is an issue with the battery itself
alviseven
Well-known member
do you think the paid version of hobdrive does work or do you know it does? might be worth a try then...
the chademo does work but not for long at most 12 mins and then drops out with a yellow warning light fault
All I can say it does work with my 2012 IMiev and cheap Vgate dongle
Yes, as mentioned before one or more of your ‘weak’ cells reach 4.1V quickly and stop the charging process
alviseven
Well-known member
checked the demo version does work with my phone and dongle on a different car so going to buy it and try tomorrow
