DBMandrake said:Canion, Hobdrive, and Evbatmon will all give the HV battery Ah capacity.
Canion is free but requires a more expensive STN11xx adaptor (such as OBDLink LX) and will not work with a cheap ELM327 adaptor.
Hobdrive has a free version and will work with a cheap ELM327 adaptor so is probably the cheapest outlay to read the battery capacity if you already have an Android device.
Hobdrive is not the easiest to use. To initially set it up, go to Screens->Settings, under OBD-II port settings to select your (already paired) bluetooth OBD adaptor.pbui19 said:DBMandrake said:Canion, Hobdrive, and Evbatmon will all give the HV battery Ah capacity.
Canion is free but requires a more expensive STN11xx adaptor (such as OBDLink LX) and will not work with a cheap ELM327 adaptor.
Hobdrive has a free version and will work with a cheap ELM327 adaptor so is probably the cheapest outlay to read the battery capacity if you already have an Android device.
hi Simon,
Thought to give Hobdrive a try, as my Canion Trip screen has been blank for a while. At the first run, Hobdrive asks for make/model, which list Mitsu and not iMiev. What model do you select ? or perhaps I downloaded the incorrect apps.
For some reason, my Canion screen where the real-time Ah was display. It still shows Ah history, but roughly on a monthly interval.
Thanks for any hints.
Hi Paul, yes mine went from 38.1Ah to 39.1Ah a couple of months ago after I did a long slow charge from two bars. Presently sitting at 38.9Ah. This was on the replacement battery which has about 35K miles on it. Even though I pamper my battery when charging, I'm afraid my leadfoot is not nice to it otherwise.pbui19 said:...Has anyone notice the Ah value increasing after a calibration-charge ?
The warning light was probably caused by connecting Hobdrive to the car before you selected the ECU type. It defaults to normal OBD-II scanning using multiple protocols - this upsets these cars and sets fault codes and lights the warning light. Other apps like Torque Pro etc will cause the same issue, in fact any generic OBD-II application that is not specifically compatible with these cars.pbui19 said:Thank you for your instruction, I was able to get Hobdrive to work; and indeed the Ah is same value as from Canion. I did get the dreaded warning light car-with-!; but it went away upon restart.
I don't think you can graph the voltage, at least not at a high sample rate that would show what you're looking for. You can get the 12 volt battery reading either from the EV ECU - which I'm guessing is what you're looking at, or from the actual OBD-II adaptor itself as the ELM327 protocol allows for asking the OBD adaptor itself to measure the voltage at the diagnostic socket. You can see that in the custom PID's page.I am glad to see the 12v-aux voltage display, is there a way to plot this voltage ? my thinking is the plot may show a voltage drag upon starting/relay engaging etc... which would indicate a weak 12-v batt.
Not sure what you mean by a "calibration charge ?"My indicated Ah value has been dropping quite a bit these last few months; but I am not sure that my range has been affected. Have to wait for warmer weather for the reference drive.
Has anyone notice the Ah value increasing after a calibration-charge ?
Yes, only a near full discharge from full or charge to full from nearly discharged gives the BMS the opportunity to measure the Ah capacity properly.pbui19 said:By "calibration charge", I meant to charge from the blinking 1-2 bars to 100%. My understanding is that when the guessometer hits 2 and below bars, the BMS goes into some sort of integration mode to reset the available Ah. In fact, I don't understand how does the software calculates and reports the pack Ah without a calibration charge.
Yes, although fully discharged (0% SoC reported in Canion and the car shutting down) is 3.63 volts per cell on my car. There is some evidence that as the batteries degrade and lose capacity, a little bit of capacity at the bottom end is "unlocked" by allowing the cells to discharge lower than 3.63 volts. But not too much lower.I would say in general, the pack capacity is the input Ah between the SOC when ONE cell reaches the bottom, 2.9 v ?, and ONE exceed the top at 4.10xx ? essential in between the high/low knee voltage curve.
Mine was at 39.9Ah at 28k miles which at the time was good and seemed better than most other Ion's however after a series of large drops in reported capacity I'd say that mine is now significantly worse than most. I definitely have at least 2 weak cells that are probably responsible for most of the drop and have toyed with the idea of replacing them, however sourcing known-good second hand cells at an affordable price, and having the where with all to replace them (requiring a full day with access to a 2 post hoist) is not easy, so I'm not sure whether it's worth the trouble.Both Canion & Hobdrive are reported my pack at 36.9 Ah at 22Kmiles; but I can't honestly tell whether my range has diminished. It's the range that matters, not the reported Ah.
CZeroOwner, thank you so much for attempting to model and quantify our battery degradation. Concluding that the degradation in your car seems to be primarily time-related seems counter-intuitive although possibly quite valid if you are a featherfoot driver and adhere to a conservative charging regimen. Considering the 87,000km (54K miles) you have driven in exactly five years it would seem to me that there should be some component attributable to battery wear-down degradation as well. In any case, thank you for sharing your study's results and hopefully you can keep accumulating data and refining your algorithm(s).CZeroOwner said:...If this analysis is correct then all of the degradation of the battery since I bought our car can be explained by the storage degradation. Charge and use cycles appear to be of little consequence...
I can save you a bit of speculating here. The factory new usable capacity of these batteries is not 50Ah.CZeroOwner said:The choice of a date for the manufacture of the battery does affect the predicted original capacity of the battery of 44 Ah shown in figure 2. The further back the manufacture date the greater the predicted original capacity. However to reach the specified capacity of 50 Ah at the present rate of degradation I would have to assume that my battery was manufactured in 2008. This seems unlikely. It’s more likely that the battery deteriorated at a greater rate before I bought it, maybe because it was in the dealers showroom and therefore warmer than it would have been if kept outdoors. Another explanation is that the true rate of degradation is greater than that I have seen so far. We know that the battery temperature is 5 to 10 oC greater than the air temperature when the battery is in use or while charging so the average battery temperature over the whole day must be greater than 10oC. I suspect that as I collect more data a new analysis will show a greater rate of degradation.
The most obvious implication here is that the buyer will never get a battery with the specified capacity. This explains the observation made by others on this forum that the battery capacity of a new car is always less than 50Ah. Storage degradation also means that the car should be kept as cold as possible both before and after sale. I’m not sure that air-conditioning the garage is a good idea but heating it certainly isn’t. Lastly it appears that within limits how we use and charge the battery has less effect on the rate of degradation than the average air temperature.
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