2011 Peugeot Ion with P1A15 No-Start, and No-Charge Problems, Cwp01 is asking for help

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kiev

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May 3, 2015
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The Heart o' Dixie
From a PM conversation,
@Cwp01 said, I have the dreaded P1A15 fault.the 12 v battery is ok.the isa215 board has been changed for AN202 mod.aircon and heater disconnected.and if try charging car it cuts off after 10 seconds.cannot get car to go into ready mode any further advice from anyone where to go next

Additional notes from PM conversations,

1. 12V battery reads 15.6V Open Circuit using DVM.
717-38b6e0571ff17d176837c283ebda950e.data


2. A 3rd party soldered a "AN202 (?)" chip to one of Greg's custom PCBs, then it was installed by connecting to pins on the MCU control board (no details given).

3. cannot hear any relays working when trying start mode
 
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Concerning 1. above,

i can see in your pictures that the digital voltmeter is indicating that it's internal battery is low. This can cause errors and bad measurements.

Replace the internal battery of your meter and check the 12V again.

15.6V is much too high for a lead acid battery unless it was charged with an unregulated charger that allowed it to go so high. But i would expect to see acid spill out of the vent hole if this were to occur. This is all very strange to me.
 
Unfortunately it sounds like the repair was not successful, otherwise the P1A15 would have cleared. Did you use an AD202? There is not an isolation amplifier AN 202. There are 2 versions of the chip also, and the pcb traces/wiring would have to be modified for one of them.

So what is the full part number (including suffix, etc) of the device that you bought and installed? Was it a real Analog Devices part or possibly a counterfeit?

P1A15 would not prevent charging, but a blown fuse under the cover of the MCU would prevent charging. So check to see if that fuse is blown.
 
Unfortunately it sounds like the repair was not successful, otherwise the P1A15 would have cleared. Did you use an AD202? There is not an isolation amplifier AN 202. There are 2 versions of the chip also, and the pcb traces/wiring would have to be modified for one of them.

So what is the full part number (including suffix, etc) of the device that you bought and installed? Was it a real Analog Devices part or possibly a counterfeit?

P1A15 would not prevent charging, but a blown fuse under the cover of the MCU would prevent charging. So check to see if that fuse is blown.
The 12 v battery measures
Unfortunately it sounds like the repair was not successful, otherwise the P1A15 would have cleared. Did you use an AD202? There is not an isolation amplifier AN 202. There are 2 versions of the chip also, and the pcb traces/wiring would have to be modified for one of them.

So what is the full part number (including suffix, etc) of the device that you bought and installed? Was it a real Analog Devices part or possibly a counterfeit?

P1A15 would not prevent charging, but a blown fuse under the cover of the MCU would prevent charging. So check to see if that fuse is blown.
Part number 2318-02 for analog device AD202KN ISOLATION AMPLIFIER
 

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Did you get your DVM working with a new battery and measure the 12V? You previous message about that was cut off.

Did you bench test the AD202 to ensure it was working properly before installation?

You have not shared any details of how you determined that the hybrid was defective; it is not possible to help without knowing the past history plus the steps and details taken for repairs.

What is your level of understanding, knowledge, skills and abilities, and comfort level, with respect to electronics repairs and automobile repairs?
 
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Did you bench test the AD202 to ensure it was working properly before installation?
This seems to be some sort of third party device of unknown quality. DigiKey only drop ship it; it's not a standard part.

So testing would be really good. Not trivial to do safely though. Maybe 60 V from a dual 30 V power supply would be enough for a rough test, and assume that it's linear.
 
Unfortunately it sounds like the repair was not successful, otherwise the P1A15 would have cleared. Did you use an AD202? There is not an isolation amplifier AN 202. There are 2 versions of the chip also, and the pcb traces/wiring would have to be modified for one of them.

So what is the full part number (including suffix, etc) of the device that you bought and installed? Was it a real Analog Devices part or possibly a counterfeit?

P1A15 would not prevent charging, but a blown fuse under the cover of the MCU would prevent charging. So check to see if that fuse is blown.
P1A15 is a hard error that doesnt clear itself - you have to use a diagnostic reader to clear it.

Was the AD202KN a genuine one? A customer supplied me chips to fit and they were cheap fakes, they just about did the job but werent reliable enough for the car and had to be replaced with genuine ones.
 
P1A15 is a hard error that doesnt clear itself - you have to use a diagnostic reader to clear it.

Was the AD202KN a genuine one? A customer supplied me chips to fit and they were cheap fakes, they just about did the job but werent reliable enough for the car and had to be replaced with genuine ones.
The AD202KN was purchased from digikey.so should be genuine part
 
Did you get your DVM working with a new battery and measure the 12V? You previous message about that was cut off.

Did you bench test the AD202 to ensure it was working properly before installation?

You have not shared any details of how you determined that the hybrid was defective; it is not possible to help without knowing the past history plus the steps and details taken for repairs.

What is your level of understanding, knowledge, skills and abilities, and comfort level, with respect to electronics repairs and automobile repairs?
The 12 volt battery has been tested with proper battery tester and tests ok.the fuse is also good in the MCU for the on board charger.i think the problem with the 12 v supply to ECU.can you advise me what colour and position the live feed should be on the ECU.if I disconnect some of the connectors the water pump starts working and cooling fan.i have not bench tested the AD202KN.i am not that experienced with ev's.i cannot afford to get a garage to sort it.it seems they are not very good at solving the issue anyway.i am following the steps on the forum as a no start seems a common issue.i am ok at isolating the ev battery and taking out components.any further help would be appreciated many thanks Chris the car has been offered the road for 6 months
 
i think the problem with the 12 v supply to ECU
Is this the EV-ECU underneath the BMU under the rear seat--it has 4 connectors that plug in to it. Well at least the 2012 meiv has 4, not so sure about the 2011 Ion.

i thought is saw a picture of this with some differnt colored tape such as if someone was messing around with it--can you inspect those connectors and the wires to determine if they have been molested or not.

It could just be that there is a defect inside the EVECU. There is a thread here with pictures of the EV-ECU board and the inside components, fairly easy to remove the unit and slide the board out of the housing. i traced some of that board but never posted the schematics.

It sounds like something might be pulling down your 12V power supply that prevents other circuits from working, e.g. some transistors are blown/shorted.

Most of the ground return paths to drive actuator devices such as pumps and fans are made thru transistors in the EVECU.
 
I had the same problem this spring, and after it got hotter, the PA code showed up and reset it with the ODB2 error code clear. Had to di it for several times on the fly (and on the road) and after 1 day, it just stopped giving out the error.
I have the AC unit disengaged and about 96000kms on my i-miev and as long as it doesn't get too cold, and doesn't sleep under the stars, it just goes and goes ... 96km per charge.

cheers,

Carlos
 
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