Faulty onboard charger

[LucasH]

Hello!
My Imevi copy (C-zero) doesn't want to charge on AC-power. As i understand its a common problem on this car and i really wish that I can fix it. The DC-DC part works and I use the car but im forced to only use DC-chargers to use it. its a 2012 so it uses the old ac-dc unit. I've seen a Youtube video how to fix it and understand the procedure that is necessary. I need to disconnect the HV-unit under the driver seat and then remove the whole unit from the boot before starting the repair. My questions for you guys that have a big knowledge on this car is how i should prepare the reparation.

According to the sticker my AC-DC unit is a
499A437 STD
Serial.143644 V110
ZHTP1529R 2011.01.26
Nichicon

Summary
1. What parts to i need to buy (i live in Sweden, Europe so if anyone know a company in Europe or if the parts is easy to get?)
2. Anything that i should be prepared to do?
3. Any other tips?

Here is a video of my cars symptoms if its help to locate what is wrong. The car makes a loud fan noise in the beginning the the cabin light gets stronger like the 12v batteries chargers for like 3 seconds before the evse clicks and start blinking. The charger icon in the car flashes and indicates that the charger isn't working.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BF3jpFEziQc

Do not hesitate if you have any questions to ask

Kindly regards Lucas

 

[kiev]

Welcome and sorry to hear of your troubles.

1. You don't need to remove the battery pack or disconnect service plug under the seat; it would be an unnecessary pain for you and not a help at all. As long as the key is out of the ignition switch and there is nothing plugged into the EVVSE charge port, there should not be any HV at the OBC.

2. There are a couple of places that seem to be the common failure locations, either the input AC power section or in the Output HV DC section. Since your DCDC converter is working to charge the 12V aux battery, my guess is that you have an issue in the AC section, such as blown capacitor or bypass resistor or relay.

3. We have a dedicated thread for troubleshooting and repair of the OBC, take a look at the first page for pictures of what your failure may look like. You will need a Torx bit to get the cover off.

Good luck and post what you find out.

 

[LucasH]

Thank you for your replay, I will check that thread.

Is there any list with parts? I guess they will take a while to get here and I rather buy the parts for the most common faults before starting so the car don’t get stranded for so long

 

[kiev]

i could make a list but it is not always the same parts that have failed so it's difficult to predict what could be needed.

It doesn't take much time to open the cover and see exactly what has failed.

 

[LucasH]

I understand thank you. I will take a look tomorrow.
I got hold of some 1000pf 3kv cappers for free from a friend and hope that's the problem.

One dumb question -When i test the relay with a 5v battery, is it a clicking sound that i'm looking for to know if its working ?

Regards
Dr.Hellbom

 

[kiev]

if you have a multimeter, then you could measure for continuity across the relay contacts, which is switching the "N" side of the AC input, the white wire into faston tab "N00" across the relay contacts to the 4 solder junctions of the waffle plate marked "N".

Likely damage point is the Okaya L225 2.2uF 310V~ -X2 safety capacitor.

 

[LucasH]

Oh okay thank you. I have a multimeter but do not really understand how to check the relay with it.

I will look out for any damage when i open it up.

I hope the Okaya L225 2.2uF 310V is working and that the caps are the only thing that´s broken. Really wish for a easy repair

 

[kiev]

Some meters have a continuity check function with a buzzer that sounds out when the circuit is completed. So clip the leads to the N00 Faston tab and to the "N" solder joint, then energize the relay coil. If the relay is good then the meter will sound. This can be used to check between any two points to determine if continuity or open circuit condition exists, such as tracing thru a circuit.

 

[LucasH]

oh mine have that function. I thought that the relay were closed when there was no power and therefore the circuit wasn't complete.

I started to open the unit but i have a problem. The lid went of smoothly (but damn the silicone was strong). But two of the screws that hold the upper board is too tight and damaged due to me trying to remove them. I need to find a way to remove them without damaging the upper board, and after that replacing the screws

 

[kiev]

i remembered something about the meter test--If the precharge resistors are intact, then the meter resistance will read about 10Ω between those two points with the relay off, and nearly 0Ω when the relay coil is energized. If it does not read the 10Ω, then the resistors are bad. But you will probably see this damage without doing any test. The continuity buzzer may likely sound out in both positions due to the low resistance, so you will want to measure R instead of continuity.

Stubborn screws or fasteners are tough especially if the philips head screw has cammed out. My tools are needle-nosed vise-grip pliers, an impact hammer punch, a hammer and (pin, flat, pointed) punch, a dremel tool to cut a slot for a flat screwdrive. If i can't get any of these to work my last resort is to try to drill it out starting with a small bit and working up in size.

 

[LucasH]

Hello!
I've now successfully removed the board. What is the cause to this and how do i proceed?
https://ibb.co/z85vJBy

 

[kiev]

It appears that one or both of the ceramic precharge resistors are cracked, but the picture is too blurry to see clearly.

Was there any cracks or discharge of the black capacitor?

Do you measure any resistance from N00 to the N solder junction (without messing with the relay)?

This will be a fairly difficult repair unless you are quite skilled at soldering and pcb rework, and have desoldering equipment, etc. If you don't have the equipment then you could just purchase the parts and then take it to an electronics repair shop.

i suspect the relay should be replaced also unless something else is found to be the root cause for the resistor overheating.

Was there any recent history of a weak 12V aux battery before the failure to charrge?

 

[LucasH]

I think that the 12v battery is about to give up. Last winter the car didn't start cause of the weak 12v battery, it didn't get changed. I'm the owner from this summer so i don't know that much history of the car.

Both resistors where blown and fell apart when i removed the silicone. Otherwise the board seems fine.

I'm still not sure how to test the relay, i understand that i need to put the multimeter between two points i haven't find yet. when i done that, is it just to attach a 5 battery?
Why do you thing the board need pcb rework? is it always the cause?

 

[LucasH]

link didn't work, https://ibb.co/68pSs5s

 

[LucasH]

Sorry it's a bit tricky to understand this. I've found a N00 point on both the top and bottom board. Do you have any photos or videos to show i should do it. I don't know where to connect the other part and what to look for. I really appreciate your help

 

[LucasH]

I can measure a .5 resistance between oo and R105 (the less damaged one) the other one is zero. is that what you mean?

 

[kiev]

All the pictures are on the first page of the OBC Troubleshooting and Repair Thread; i put a lot of time and effort into collecting that information into a central location so it would be easy to find.

There is damage to the black compound between the coil and the capacitor, it would be good to dig that out to see what got hot under there or why it has cracked the surface.

All those double solder joints in the white columns on either side of the board are connections to the "waffle plate" seen underneath that board. On the left side the top double is labelled L, and the next two down are the "N".

All 72 of those joints will need to be desoldered in order to access the bottom side to solder in the new resistors, and also to access the relay and capacitor. Since you are in there you would be wise to replace the relay and capacitor along with the resistors. No need to risk additional damage by testing the relay, just replace it as the contacts are likely frosted over due to the low 12V aux battery situation. There is also a slight possibility that something is damaged on the little control board--that creates the 5V supply used to drive the relay coil.

Everyone has different knowledge, skills and abilities at electrical and electronic repair work, i don't know yours so it is hard to know at what level to advise.

With the resistors off the board there is no meaning to any test. The test was intended to discover if the resistors were damaged, but as i mentioned it would be obvious if the resistors were bad. And that explains how your car and the EVSSE was responding while trying to charrge.

 

[LucasH]

Thank you i see. I will look in that thread.
It looks tricky to desolder that, maybe i should hand it over to someone that actually can do it
I looked in you thread earlier and found som parts.
But i can't figure out what to order.

This car starts to get a pain, just got it this summer and at the moment it feels hopeless
But thank you so much for the help anyway

 

[LucasH]

I think the safest root is to change the unit!
This is a newer model but i can retrofit it right?
Saw on the forum that someone changed from a 2013 and needed to modify two cable out of four.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/PEUGEOT-ION-2015-Electric-Motor-CONVERTER-9481A010-ZHTP1557T/124425726919?_trkparms=aid%3D1110009%26algo%3DSPLICE.COMPLISTINGS%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200220094952%26meid%3D1c74ed434d7b4a7ea4360fee051e06ab%26pid%3D100008%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D164473403558%26itm%3D124425726919%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3Ddefault%26brand%3DPeugeot&_trksid=p2047675.c100008.m2219

What do you think?

 

[kiev]

i hope that it is a good unit; it appears that the top cover is on backwards or the cover decals were installed backwards. Good price if it is a working unit.

There may be some guys over in EU that can do repairs, i'm looking for some links of places to ask:

http://www.vehiculeselectriques.fr/viewforum.php?f=60

https://www.speakev.com/forums/mitsubishi-ev-gen/

If you can't find anyone located closer to you, then you can send the boards to me. i can make the repairs for you and check that they work in my kiev2 test car.