Faulty onboard charger

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The outlet going 45degrees can be so easily turned to go down that I guess there is a O-ring there.

I have questions for you guys as I plan doing the same conversion (gen1 obc to gen2)

1) I have a gen 2 OBC from a 2017 Czero with 80cells, will that work with a Czero from 2011 with 88cells ?
2) what is the brand and reference of the orange 2-pole HV connector between the gen 1 OBC and inverter ? (I would like to avoid to cannibalize a PTC heater or an AC compressor to only get the proper connector.

Many thanks !

PS: I have pictures of such a conversion/repair done by a Citroen dealership with original gen2 OBC to gen 1 inverter cable with the part number but cannot find this part anywhere... If someone would like to host these pics on the forum...
 
Thank you for sharing about the clever design for rotation of the fitting to allow retrofit of a Gen2 OBC with the Gen1 plumbing.

Regarding your questions,
1. The Gen2(80) should work in the 2011(88). The current and voltage generated by the OBC is controlled by CAN buss commands from the EV-ECU, which knows how many cells are in the pack and will provide the proper commands to charrge the pack.

2. At one time i had identified that connector but it escapes me just now, i will have to
find my notebook and report back.

[edit] Based upon the Logos found,
i think the Gen1 uses Yazaki connectors and Gen2 uses Sumitomo connectors.
 
Hello, I am new here and not at all used to join forums but I´ll give it a try this way. Maybe I should have started a new thread??

First I want to thank you for a great site and forum joined by some very excellent and experienced persons with an angels patient.

I bought a 2012 C-zero with inverter and OBC problem.

I believe I solved the inverter problem with adding a 6,8 M ohm to the AD202 circuit where it is "normal" to add a 2 M ohm.
Any comments to the 6,8 M ohm? A 2 M ohm didn´t do the job.

Then the 230 AC on board charger didn´t work. When connecting I heard the fan start and after some seconds the charging light went out as if the battery was fully charged, which it isn´t.

I tried the tricks I could find in the forum but decided to once again dismantle the OBC. (First time I changed the two small capacitors that I understan commonly breaks)

As you can see from attached pics there is one obvious problem with at least one of the connections for a capacitor.
My question now is: Is it likely that the capacitor is broken or is it probably just the lead burnt due to a bad soldering causing heat?
If the capacitor is to blame. Any idea about the part number or capacitance?
Is this a well known problem which has any other problems attached? More parts that probably must be replaced?

Then there is an other place on the upper board where some of the solderings looks suspicious as you might see from the other two pics.
Anything I should worry about?

Warm regards
Björn Larsson
PS: I have done OBD tests and have more info regarding codes and battery status etc if that will make it easier to understand the cause. And I am lousy with electronics so explain as if I was a novis. IMG_20240604_092441.jpgIMG_20240604_092726.jpgIMG_20240604_092708.jpgIMG_20240604_092713.jpg
 
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I believe I solved the inverter problem with adding a 6,8 M ohm to the AD202 circuit where it is "normal" to add a 2 M ohm.
Any comments to the 6,8 M ohm? A 2 M ohm didn´t do the job.
I note that the 2M resistor makes a bigger difference when placed in parallel with another resistor. So it's possible that the 2M "overcorrected", and either it fixed itself, or the 6.8M brought it within specification.
 
My question now is: Is it likely that the capacitor is broken or is it probably just the lead burnt due to a bad soldering causing heat?

If the capacitor is to blame. Any idea about the part number or capacitance?
I'd say that the capacitor is toast, whether caused by a bad solder joint or not.

Edit: I had completely the wrong capacitor earlier. This is C7, a 1.0μF film capacitor. I can't quickly find a voltage rating, but 630 VDC would be about right. It actually sees just rectified mains, so 310 VAC would also do.

Is this a well known problem which has any other problems attached?
I've not seen this capacitor damaged before. It might have been affected by heat from other parts. Check the three large electrolytics nearby for bulging.
More parts that probably must be replaced?
It's hard to say without further data. See you over on the On-Board Charger Troubleshooting and Repair thread.
 
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I'd say that the capacitor is toast, whether caused by a bad solder joint or not.

Edit: I had completely the wrong capacitor earlier. This is C7, a 1.0μF film capacitor. I can't quickly find a voltage rating, but 630 VDC would be about right. It actually sees just rectified mains, so 310 VAC would also do.


I've not seen this capacitor damaged before. It might have been affected by heat from other parts. Check the three large electrolytics nearby for bulging.

It's hard to say without further data. See you over on the On-Board Charger Troubleshooting and Repair thread.
Thank you Coulomb!
Great that you took the time to answer. I have tried to read the whole thread but could not find anything. I am probably wrong about that.
No visual defects on the three large electrolytic cells.

Looks like the two big square ceramic resistors and the relay are toast as well. I could see signs of heated compound between them.

I´ll once again go to the thread and try to find something about this symptom.

Thank you for the tip about the capacitor.

Have a great day!
 

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