[ The P1A15 Troubleshooting Thread ] No READY. P1A15 error. Condenser charge timeout.

[kiev]

Great work on getting the repair done, nice soldering job.

Is this in a 2010 model? Interesting that it used the same hybrid board.

 

[TheDexter]

Great work on getting the repair done, nice soldering job.

Is this in a 2010 model? Interesting that it used the same hybrid board.

Thx well the sticker says 2011, so I guess the rest of the parts is within that age.

 

[kiev]

In the US they would sell it as a "2012" model.

Car manufacturing date on the label in the door jam?

 

[TheDexter]

In the US they would sell it as a "2012" model.

Car manufacturing date on the label in the door jam?

 

[kiev]

Tenth digit of VIN represents date:
C = 2012

 

[TheDexter]

Sorry I've not been around much, life has been a bit complicated lately. Since I've done this repair my car has done nearly 2,500 miles. So far so good.

I've got a new batch of the AD202KN pcbs. They are £5 each including UK postage, £6 to the EU and £7 to anywhere else. If you require one message me with your address and email address and I will send you a PayPal invoice.

You will need to source the AD202KN, I got mine from Mouser but at the moment they are showing no stock until mid March. Octopart may help you find one. Avoid purchasing these from Chinese/Ebay suppliers as those don't seem to work properly.

Hi
@GregFordyce
@iso14000
@kiev
Would this replacement part do the job?

AD202KNATI

@GregFordyce do you still have pcb’s for sale, and would they fit AD202KNATI?

 

[TheDexter]

Tenth digit of VIN represents date:
C = 2012

Oh nice

 

[kiev]

Here's a tip from @BlindMoose about accessing the bottom control board in the MCU,

I have already done the P!A15 resistor bodge in the MCU. Interestingly, I managed that without removing from the vehicle. Just needed to unbolt from the frame, and lift & twist the box, to get access to the bottom plate.