[ The P1A15 Troubleshooting Thread ] No READY. P1A15 error. Condenser charge timeout.

[boothegermanshepherd]

Sorry, plans changed as I went to collect a second hand inverter out of an accident damage car.

Got it home, transferred the data from the eeprom u6, perfect, fitted the whole unit back in the car and


STILL THE SAME FAULT!

is this just bad luck or have I been chasing a red herring all the way.

So back to the start

The freeze frame data is

Total battery voltage 348v

Mcu condenser voltage 332v


I’m now going to have to take a voltmeter and check a live reading I think at the inverter

 

[kiev]

That's a bummer. i sent an OBC control board to iOnico and he had a similar result, put it in expecting it to work, but same fault.

Did you check and clear any codes before trying to start? Maybe that was a stored code from the old MCU, but would need to be cleared? i don't know how that code is handled by the EV-ECU.

It would seem a huge coincidence if the new unit (salvage) also had the P1A15.

i can see how that BDM stand would be useful for reading and writing eeproms. Did you have to write code or already have an app for that chip?

Could the MCU fault codes be stored on the eeprom?

i guess that is not the issue since you are actually seeing a voltage delta between pack and mcu.

 

[boothegermanshepherd]

Morning,

I always clear fault codes from all systems after disturbing the system by shutting down the vehicle.

The fault code re appears exactly the same as previously when you apply terminal 50 on the ignition switch.

The freeze frame data is exactly the same.

I removed chip u6 to copy it and swap it to the new board, that is the only item from the original car but my understanding is that u6 is really just the immobiliser and coding chip. It carries the chassis number etc.

 

[boothegermanshepherd]

Here’s the readings

So still chasing the same problem


https://imgur.com/a/eeOZx9x

 

[kiev]

That's a nice data screen, which scan tool app are you using?

All 5 of the MCU: data stream fields seem to indicate that the inverter started to READY mode and is good to go.

Except the capacitor voltage value doesn't agree with the live voltmeter reading, hence the P1A15.

It's hard to believe that the new MCU has the same defect, but i would guess that the voltage thru the hybrid is being degraded just like in the old one.

There is a 3-pin dual diode on the bottom side that rectifies the output of the power transformer to create the +/- 5V supplies, which seem to always be unequal on defective boards. Mine is marked "C3" and Toshiba made at least 3 different parts with that same marking code. i've never seen a diode degrade, they are usually either good or bad (blown or shorted). The other cause for an unequal LV supply would be from the PWM chip duty cycle being skewed.

 

[boothegermanshepherd]

Hi kenny

It’s a launch, good tool for the money.

I’m starting all over again but obviously with a little more knowledge!

The next tests

I tested the voltage at cn4 just in case and this is still 347v

Next test:

https://imgur.com/a/DeoHblN

So actual input dc is 347 to inverter

Voltage measurement at vl vh is 3.654 is this correct or is this voltage degraded hence no ready.

Just to add it’s the same even if I disconnected the large dump resistor on plug cn5

 

[boothegermanshepherd]

Forgot to say

Apart from the 3 pin diodes and a few small components I have replaced everything else on the old board

I replaced tl494

 

[kiev]

With 347 at inverter, the VH-VL should read (6.367/606.367)*347= 3.644 [edit to correct mistake]

 

[boothegermanshepherd]

Next test

Pins 3-5 on the hybrid board

Strange thing here is there is a supply of 15v at the hybrid board but only 13.5 at the battery using a battery support unit? Even checking at the battery with a meter it’s showing 13.5???

Anyway back to the output test.

The voltage at pin 3 and 4 on start up is 3.515 again lower than the input was previously, again true battery voltage was 347v

https://imgur.com/a/8Muh2t4

I meant to add that this time my diagnosis was on the vehicle as this is probably the best test bench with actual battery voltage being used but my conclusion here is that the hybrid board on my second unit is faulty.

This is going to be difficult to solve without a working board to compare with.

Lastly kenny do we know what the small three pin diodes maybe? This is my last chance!

 

[boothegermanshepherd]

Thanks kenny I have just read your last post

Am I chasing a red herring with the hybrid board?

Both new and old are not giving the same output as input, I would love to see that in operation! Even just to make me feel better!

I can change all of the capacitors and resistors on the main board next if we are getting a false reading to vl vh?

 

[kiev]

The 15V supply does not surprise me; there is likely a dc boost supply on the control board to create the 15V for driving the FETs, i haven't traced it out but i can see the transformer on the other end of the board and this is common in inverters.

Just use the ohm meter to check the 6 100k and the 6.8k . Try to figure out if the signal is being attenuated before reaching the hybrid or not. If it is, then that is a separate issue from the hybrid and should be fixed first, then additional testing to determine if the hybrid is good/bad.

 

[boothegermanshepherd]

Which ever or both I am getting a 13-14 v simulated drop.

Perhaps I need to eliminate one at a time

And this time start at the main board

 

[kiev]

Those blue resistors are usually bullet proof, tight tolerance and higher cost to ensure always meeting the spec value.

 

[boothegermanshepherd]

Resistors all ok

What size are the caps and I will replace them now?

 

[kiev]

Seem to be 0.39uF each. i measured about 1.2uF across all three with the tweezers. 0805 footprint.

 

[boothegermanshepherd]

Hi

I found your post previously

I don’t have any 390

What else could I use

I have 330 uf?

 

[kiev]

If you meant 0.330 uF, then that would be okay.

Would you be able to check the old ones on the bench to see if any are shorted, have less capacitance, leaky, defective, etc.

 

[boothegermanshepherd]

Or 410 uf

 

[kiev]

.410 is okay too, the exact value is not critical +/- 20% is okay.

The .33uF would allow a faster rise time than the .41uF, but as long as they are not leaky then the voltage should still get up to the expected value.

 

[boothegermanshepherd]

All caps fitted

Still the same and exactly the same input voltage on vl vh

3.654v and same with resistor dump on cn5 disconnected?!