Not able to drive. P1A15 error.
- Thread starter Gencis
- Start date
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If we can believe that data then it appears to be a closely balanced pack with no bad cells.
But the SOC is indicating 0.0%, which is not normal. Maybe because the car didn't go to ready.
The pack at 342 VDC and the RR at 28 indicating about half the range left seems to be normal measurements.
If you still get the P1A15 error then I suspect the High Voltage measurement board in the bottom of the MCU.
But the SOC is indicating 0.0%, which is not normal. Maybe because the car didn't go to ready.
The pack at 342 VDC and the RR at 28 indicating about half the range left seems to be normal measurements.
If you still get the P1A15 error then I suspect the High Voltage measurement board in the bottom of the MCU.
coulomb
Well-known member
Ah. It shows a healthy total battery voltage. I was thinking that this means that the contractors are working, but now I realise that maybe (not likely but possibly) they add together the cell voltage readings from all the CMUs.Gencis said:
But I'm 90% certain now that the contactors are working, and that the measurement daughter board on the MCU must be OK. Unless there are two measurements, before and after the contactors, in which case only one might be faulty (and the good one is used to report the battery voltage). But that seems unlikely to me.
So my current theory is : I haven't got a clue
Edit: but please try charging that new auxiliary battery. Just because it's new doesn't mean it's fully charged, and at very low temperatures, even a nearly flat battery might read 13+ volts. Your DC-DC converter isn't charging your battery, so you'll need an external charrger.
I fully charged the battery at the front. The result was the same. Error after each start.
I checked fuses at the front. They are intact and no moisture inside the fuse box.
I started to think that maybe moisture could enter the components at the rear. From outside, everything looks dusty and intact.
I checked fuses at the front. They are intact and no moisture inside the fuse box.
I started to think that maybe moisture could enter the components at the rear. From outside, everything looks dusty and intact.
Why do you not post the auxiliary battery voltages whenever you report having issues?
1. The open circuit voltage, when OFF.
2. The pre-start voltage when key turned to ON.
3. The voltage when in READY.
Here's what it looks like to me, the car was running last Autumn, then went intermittent and throwing DTC as the weather cooled. Your auxiliary battery was not getting charged. No starting and no charging was possible.
Then last month you got it to start to READY after special charging of your old aux battery. Later it quit again, and you finally bought a new battery, but didn't charge it. If it sat in low temperatures with a low voltage, then it could have been degraded/sulfated over that period of time. So recently you charged the auxiliary, but didn't post any of the necessary voltages.
This sure looks like an intermittent issue that seems related to the strength of the 12V aux battery because it won't charge the High Voltage Pack or go to READY.
Are there any other codes thrown, such as after attempting to charge the HV by plugin the EVSE? So clear the codes, try to charge, then read the codes, also measure the aux voltage before and while plugged in, and post those.
There are pictures of there HV amplifier board in the MCU found in the other P1A15 thread that Lic started. There are some small resistors and capacitors that could be checked using a meter, but if something like that has failed then it won't be healing itself to provide intermittent operation such as you have.
Coulomb has also looked at this thread and thinks the HV measurement/amplifier board is likely OK. He also suggested charging the "new" battery.
1. The open circuit voltage, when OFF.
2. The pre-start voltage when key turned to ON.
3. The voltage when in READY.
Here's what it looks like to me, the car was running last Autumn, then went intermittent and throwing DTC as the weather cooled. Your auxiliary battery was not getting charged. No starting and no charging was possible.
Then last month you got it to start to READY after special charging of your old aux battery. Later it quit again, and you finally bought a new battery, but didn't charge it. If it sat in low temperatures with a low voltage, then it could have been degraded/sulfated over that period of time. So recently you charged the auxiliary, but didn't post any of the necessary voltages.
This sure looks like an intermittent issue that seems related to the strength of the 12V aux battery because it won't charge the High Voltage Pack or go to READY.
Are there any other codes thrown, such as after attempting to charge the HV by plugin the EVSE? So clear the codes, try to charge, then read the codes, also measure the aux voltage before and while plugged in, and post those.
There are pictures of there HV amplifier board in the MCU found in the other P1A15 thread that Lic started. There are some small resistors and capacitors that could be checked using a meter, but if something like that has failed then it won't be healing itself to provide intermittent operation such as you have.
Coulomb has also looked at this thread and thinks the HV measurement/amplifier board is likely OK. He also suggested charging the "new" battery.
I took a new battery out of the car. It stood for 2 days in warm room (+16C). Then it was charged. Charger set to charging voltage 14.40 V.
After battery was fully charged, Voltage 13.15V.
After connected to the car - 13.12V
When key turned to on position (RUN light did not come on) - 12.6V
Key in ON position, driving lights on - 12.18V
Tried several attempts to start, deleting error code after each attempt. But without success.
After this voltage, when car is off - 12.78V
After 30min., the car is off, battery connected to the car - 12.88V
I also tried to charge the car. Every time I get P1A15 error.
Now it is more than 2.5 month passed, I made many attempts to start the car but without success. My last lucky one time driving was in January.
After battery was fully charged, Voltage 13.15V.
After connected to the car - 13.12V
When key turned to on position (RUN light did not come on) - 12.6V
Key in ON position, driving lights on - 12.18V
Tried several attempts to start, deleting error code after each attempt. But without success.
After this voltage, when car is off - 12.78V
After 30min., the car is off, battery connected to the car - 12.88V
I also tried to charge the car. Every time I get P1A15 error.
Now it is more than 2.5 month passed, I made many attempts to start the car but without success. My last lucky one time driving was in January.
When you try to start, do you hear any relays or contractors clacking underneath (in the main pack)?
Also, same question for when you plug in the EVSE to charge the pack--any clacking noises underneath?
Do you get any other DTC codes, or just the one?
There is a schematic in Lic's P1A15 thread with resistors, capacitors and transistor that could be checked on the main board in the bottom plenum. HV warning make sure to measure first that there is no HV before probing or removing the board, etc.
Also, same question for when you plug in the EVSE to charge the pack--any clacking noises underneath?
Do you get any other DTC codes, or just the one?
There is a schematic in Lic's P1A15 thread with resistors, capacitors and transistor that could be checked on the main board in the bottom plenum. HV warning make sure to measure first that there is no HV before probing or removing the board, etc.
coulomb
Well-known member
Does your charger do a proper absorb charge, or just stop when the battery voltage reaches 14.4 V? It should keep the battery voltage at 14.4 V or so for long enough that the charge current drops to a low value, perhaps one or two amps.Gencis said:
I'm concerned that the battery voltage is dropping very quickly under load, and that's not necessarily the lowest voltage it drops to with sudden surges that the multimeter can't see (unless you use a min/max function, and not all multimeters have that facility).
When I try to charge the car using slow charging, some relay clicks at the rear. Then relay clicks again and charging stops + green triangle.
When key is in ON position and is turned to start position, one relay clicks under the instrument cluster.
For 12V baterry charging I use this charger: https://www.victronenergy.com/chargers/blue-smart-ip65-charger
For error checking and deleting I use icarSoft 1st generation OBD scanner. Do not have much experience with it.
I tried to go through various menu and found P1A15 error and additionally these error codes:
ETACS module: U1111 - Display CAN timeout/not equipped
Meter module: U1116 - KOS CAN timeout/not equipped
OCM module: B1691- Occupant sensing antenna
Comp&htr module: U111C - BMU CAN Timeout
Some data I was able to get:
In different modules I get different 12V battery voltage:
When key is in ON position and is turned to start position, one relay clicks under the instrument cluster.
For 12V baterry charging I use this charger: https://www.victronenergy.com/chargers/blue-smart-ip65-charger
For error checking and deleting I use icarSoft 1st generation OBD scanner. Do not have much experience with it.
I tried to go through various menu and found P1A15 error and additionally these error codes:
ETACS module: U1111 - Display CAN timeout/not equipped
Meter module: U1116 - KOS CAN timeout/not equipped
OCM module: B1691- Occupant sensing antenna
Comp&htr module: U111C - BMU CAN Timeout
Some data I was able to get:
In different modules I get different 12V battery voltage:
BlindMoose
Active member
Amazingly, we are suffering the same problem, at the moment. During lockdown the car has been left for 2 to 3 months, with traction battery at about half charge, and the 12v auxiliary battery removed. So charged the auxiliary battery, plonked it back in the car, and drove it round the block, to 'free off' the brake shoes & pads. Came back, turned it off, went for a cup of tea. Went back out to the car, to pop down the road, and bingo. The car won't go into ready. So bought a new 12v auxiliary, and no change. Ran a diagnostic, got the P1A15, and timeout errors. Cleared the errors, and the car went into ready. Drove the car over to put it on charge, turned it off, put charger on, and went back to error state. red 12v battery sign, and yellow exclamation thro car. So I thought that the fault was the DC to DC charger. Checked all the fuses ( including the 20A) in the MCU. Tried to clear the codes, but the car stubbornly won't leave the error status or go into ready, and has been like this for a couple of weeks. Spent many hours now trawling through other sites to see if anyone has cured this, but to no avail. However I have just found an obscure mention that the problem may well be with the BMU. Apparently this unit has an eprom that learns the state of the batteries. It states that 'IF THE AUXILIARY IS REMOVED FOR MORE THAN A MONTH, A BMU LEARNING VALUE MUST BE RE-WRITTEN INTO THE EPROM' So, maybe that means the BMU is now throwing up the fault, because it doesn't know the battery status. Hopefully, if I can lay my hands on a decent MUT type reader, I might be able to upload to the Eprom. Next week, and see if that works.
BlindMoose
Active member
Ok, managed to borrow a Launch bi-directional pro scanner. Set the vin number. wrote to the BMU Eprom the traction battery date, and reset. Did not clear yellow icar fault. Ran a search of fault codes & cleared 4. Did not cure yellow icar fault Ran a search on EV-ECU fault codes & cleared. FAULT GONE, turned key & car went into ready, with bing/bong chime. Turned car off and connected to domestic charger, to see if the fault returned. No. Car charged fine to full. During the recharging time, returned the scanner to the owner with thanks. 4 hrs later with car fully charged, went to start vehicle, and yellow car fault light has returned, and won't go into ready. Bother, will have to wait till next weekend to hopefully borrow scanner again, as is used by garage weekdays.
Even though you bought a new aux battery, did you ever charrge it to full? No telling how long it set on the shelf at the store. A weak aux can cause intermittent operation and faults.
Yes, I charged the auxiliary battery already 3 times. 1st time after purchase, then after few weeks after several trials.
Last week we had some warmer temperatures up to 10C. But still, the error occurs every time. Did not succeed to turn it on for 3 months already.
The car was left max for 5 days without an auxiliary battery.
Last week we had some warmer temperatures up to 10C. But still, the error occurs every time. Did not succeed to turn it on for 3 months already.
The car was left max for 5 days without an auxiliary battery.
Here's my ideas for something to try.
With a known good and fully charged aux battery, measure OCV and when loaded in ACC or ON position too.
First clear all the codes with the icarsoft tool,
then try to start and see if goes to READY. If not then read the DTCs and write then down.
Clear the DTCs again and try to charrge the car. If not then read the DTCs and write them down.
Post up your results and report the findings
Maybe your intermittent issue from the low aux battery has moved on to something more permanent such as the hybrid measurement board in the MCU, or some other issue that hopefully the DTCs will point.
Good luck and hope it works for you.
With a known good and fully charged aux battery, measure OCV and when loaded in ACC or ON position too.
First clear all the codes with the icarsoft tool,
then try to start and see if goes to READY. If not then read the DTCs and write then down.
Clear the DTCs again and try to charrge the car. If not then read the DTCs and write them down.
Post up your results and report the findings
Maybe your intermittent issue from the low aux battery has moved on to something more permanent such as the hybrid measurement board in the MCU, or some other issue that hopefully the DTCs will point.
Good luck and hope it works for you.
BlindMoose
Active member
Re-acquired the Launch x-341 scanner and cleared the codes again, as last week. Car started. Drove the car to reduce battery capacity from full, to 4 bars used, with air-con & heating on. Everything works fine. Lights/ windscreen wipers/ heater fan/ electric windows/ there ere no issues with anything. So stoped the car & turned off. Had a cup of tea, went back to start car, and yellow icar fault returned, so no-go.
Re-scanned the codes, faults logged are :- the EV-ECU system showed 3 faults = P1B09 (MCU CAN Timeout/Not Equipped) P1A15 (High Voltage Circuit [1]) P1A16 (High Voltage Circuit[2]). the KOS/Immo/Keyless system showed 1 fault = U1111 (Display CAN Timeout/Not Equipped), the Meter system showed 1 fault = U1116 (KOS CAN Timeout/Not Equipped. the ETACS system showed 1 fault = U1111 (Display CAN Timeout/Not Equipped) coincidentally this is the same as the KOS system. So if I re-clear all the faults, the car works perfectly. Stop the car, turn it off and when I turn it back on the yellow icar fault returns, and the vehicle is bricked. Done this 4 times now, obviously the answer is, don't turn the car off The only other obvious thing I can see, is that the fuel bar display is slow to fill when the fault is showing, whereas it is instant when the fault is cleared. :?: MY BEST GUESS IS, CORROSION ON A CONNECTION SOMEWHERE.
Re-scanned the codes, faults logged are :- the EV-ECU system showed 3 faults = P1B09 (MCU CAN Timeout/Not Equipped) P1A15 (High Voltage Circuit [1]) P1A16 (High Voltage Circuit[2]). the KOS/Immo/Keyless system showed 1 fault = U1111 (Display CAN Timeout/Not Equipped), the Meter system showed 1 fault = U1116 (KOS CAN Timeout/Not Equipped. the ETACS system showed 1 fault = U1111 (Display CAN Timeout/Not Equipped) coincidentally this is the same as the KOS system. So if I re-clear all the faults, the car works perfectly. Stop the car, turn it off and when I turn it back on the yellow icar fault returns, and the vehicle is bricked. Done this 4 times now, obviously the answer is, don't turn the car off
The only other obvious thing I can see, is that the fuel bar display is slow to fill when the fault is showing, whereas it is instant when the fault is cleared. :?: MY BEST GUESS IS, CORROSION ON A CONNECTION SOMEWHERE.@BlindMoose,
All of your errors are CAN buss related. The MCU is not continuously connected to the CAN buss and is throwing 3 codes, 1 for no CAN, 1 for too slow to charge the main capacitor, 1 for too slow to discharge the main capacitor, both of the last 2 are reported by CAN, and if CAN is not working then they get thrown.
i would suspect a weak 12V aux battery first; then a loose pin or socket in a connector second; and rodent damaged wiring harness third. The EV-ECU is under the rear seat, easy to get to. i would disconnect, inspect (look for moisture, corrosion, dirt) and mate all the connectors [and the CAN junction connector] you can see under there, then retry with a known good fully charged aux battery.
All of your errors are CAN buss related. The MCU is not continuously connected to the CAN buss and is throwing 3 codes, 1 for no CAN, 1 for too slow to charge the main capacitor, 1 for too slow to discharge the main capacitor, both of the last 2 are reported by CAN, and if CAN is not working then they get thrown.
i would suspect a weak 12V aux battery first; then a loose pin or socket in a connector second; and rodent damaged wiring harness third. The EV-ECU is under the rear seat, easy to get to. i would disconnect, inspect (look for moisture, corrosion, dirt) and mate all the connectors [and the CAN junction connector] you can see under there, then retry with a known good fully charged aux battery.
Today I was at the place where the car is standing. Unfortunately, I did not have with me a voltmeter.
But I had a scanner.
Firstly error U1111 in module Comp&htr module disappeared.
But error with the same code U1111 (differed only explanation: Display CAN timeout/not equipped) appeared in module KOS/IMMO/Keyless
Other errors:
EV-ECU: P1A15 High voltage error (1)
ETACS module: U1111 - Display CAN timeout/not equipped
Meter module: U1116 - KOS CAN timeout/not equipped
OCM module: B1691- Occupant sensing antenna
I can only delete error P1A15. The rest I cannot. I select an error, choose Clear error codes. After I get messages that error codes cleared. But if I go one step back and once more select function Show errors, I am getting the same error code marked as active.
May be you have any idea why I am not able to delete error codes?
But I had a scanner.
Firstly error U1111 in module Comp&htr module disappeared.
But error with the same code U1111 (differed only explanation: Display CAN timeout/not equipped) appeared in module KOS/IMMO/Keyless
Other errors:
EV-ECU: P1A15 High voltage error (1)
ETACS module: U1111 - Display CAN timeout/not equipped
Meter module: U1116 - KOS CAN timeout/not equipped
OCM module: B1691- Occupant sensing antenna
I can only delete error P1A15. The rest I cannot. I select an error, choose Clear error codes. After I get messages that error codes cleared. But if I go one step back and once more select function Show errors, I am getting the same error code marked as active.
May be you have any idea why I am not able to delete error codes?
