No READY. P1A15 error. Condenser charge timeout.

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I buyed miev 2 years ago, and used only 3 months. After 6months 12V battery died and after recharge can't go in Ready and quickly (some days) 12v discharged.
P1A15 was prezent. I clear it.
Didn't drived. Battery died.
Charged, drived 5km, stop and after 15min didn't put in ready. Seen errors but can't cleared with 3 diagnosis tools. Add a bigger 12V in paralel , cleard errors , drived back (5km) stop , but after this stop can't clear errors again with 12V in paralel.
For starters you seem to have a problem with your 12V aux battery, might be no harm to charge it fully overnight. What are the DTCs that you cannot not clear?
I use Car Scanner app ( free one ) and this days can't read errors. I connected charger on 12v battery and obd read charging from 12.7-13.5V (non linear), but can't read errors. Read in loop but never end reading.
Last 1-2 months I read and cleared them with same app/phone/dongle.

If is need to disconnect the PTC heater to diagnose that can you give me a link to learn how to do that ? I didn't find it on y.t.

OBDZero work perfect but can't help.

Edit: after reading entire thread seems is more complicated that I thinked about :/
First need to figured out how to read ECU and in same time to find price of AD20**** kit

Every time when I try to read ECU need to reconnect to dongle to can read sensors.
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If you have the P1A15 DTC, then the car will not go to READY. Sometimes this is an intermittent condition, but eventually multiple starting attempts will no longer work to get READY.
Hopefully we can discover what is the weak component that could just be swapped out on the Hybrid board and get it working again.
First step is to find a solution to read and clear ECU. Still can't clear them . I don't understand why :/
Second to find a trust supplyer for a AD202KN . What I find was discontinued product.
The first step is to fix or repair the fault that is causing the DTC, then to clear the DTC.

The car will not clear the DTC as long as the fault is present.

Clearing the DTC does not fix the fault.
Today I try to read DTC and nothing. Looping
Do you say to repair something else that read DTC or to buy AD202KN , install and then can read&clear DTC ?
Does the car go to READY?

If not, can you read any DTCs?

i use an iCarsoft i909 to read miev DTC; other devices may work but i don't know which ones.

Chances are that if you had P1A15, then you likely still do, and the car won't go to READY.

You might be able to solder a resistor to the Op Amp to trick it to work, and this might work for a long time or short time. But may give some time to buy an AD202 and figure out how to install it. The AD202 may indeed be discontinued but there might be some units still in stock. Or there is a replacement item that does the same job with different part number.

Are you fairly skilled at electronics, soldering, troubleshooting, etc?
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I-miev don't go to READY and now don't read DTC's. Last months read and cleared them. Now in same condition, don't read them.

I'm not have electronic troubleshooting skills and electronic instruments , but in worst case I can pay someone.

I had ,let say a funny experience.
Last months I cleared DTC and arrived at "periodic technical inspection" where after Stop, didn't ready. After we try read/ clear them with 4 different stuff, work only after I put a 12v in paralel. After I arrived back, try same but didn't work :/
This sounds like your 12V battery is weak, or sulfated and internally shorted, somehow it is insufficient for the task. It is not accepting charge anymore.

The intermittent and unreliable operation of the 12V is masking and preventing troubleshooting of any underlying issue.

@Negue said: I buyed miev 2 years ago, and used only 3 months. After 6months 12V battery died and after recharge can't go in Ready and quickly (some days) 12v discharged.
First battery had 2 years old , new one 6months. When I try to clear errors had charger on battery and didn't read them at any voltage (12.5-14.4)

iso 15765-4 can (11 bit id 500 kbaud) is the error when I try to read ECU Version.
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Any value in that range would work, a specific value is not required for this trick to work since it is being placed in parallel to the 100k resistor to effectively lower the total input resistance.

Another approach and probably easier would be to replace one of the resistors in the widely-spaced voltage divider circuit, the 6 wide spaced 100k resistors that drop the HV down to the hybrid board. These would be easier to access and solder. For example to raise the signal about 10% you could replace one of the divider resistors with a 40k.
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I put 2.2Mohm there and I try to unplug Hibrid circuit board to wire it but tool I think was to unpowered to melted all pins and changed my mind.
I replug all wires.
OBD Dongle and CarScanner connect to ECU 1 from 10 reconnections but then don't read all steps. Only P1A4C was readed and clear it sometimes but freez after 1-2minutes when try to read more then 2 steps :) (Obd + ECU )

Still not do Ready :/
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P1A4C indicates that the Battery Management Unit BMU, located under the rear seat, has an issue with the low voltage supply.

Wiring or connector issue, or weak 12V battery, or too high 12V supply (greater than 16V).

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A friend cleard Dts with his a better dongle / soft.
Seems that my cheap OBD Dongle don't want to read/clear DTS anymore :/ to bad that I waste this time. Curious that still read sensors ( OBDZero work and LeafSpy on Leaf)

Now, do Ready and 14.4v on auxiliary 12v battery.

I used a 1 x 2.2Mohm ( that I think I buyed :) ) resistor on hybrid board. Cost 0.06$
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I didn't do a video how easy it was but I try to add some pictures at what I can.

It's a 1 hour job if you have all tools , a good OBD Dongle + app to clean DTS and electronic guy nearby
I hope to have time to add a tutorial and someone to add missing photos.

Today I will drive it.