No READY. P1A15 error. Condenser charge timeout.

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CZeroOwner said:
Here is a complete list of the raw data used in OBDZero
You are the monster of reverse engineering!

CZeroOwner said:
Bits are number by their positional value i.e. 1, 2, 4, 8, 16, 32, 64, 128.
Its typically high-to-low i.e. 76543210 but not a big deal since its clearly mentioned.
My personal saga continues...
I think I saw this before in this thread:


only 0.41V needed to start... (crying smile should go here)
judging the speed of capacitor charge (almost immediate) and the 1 second shelf of 336V shelf with no intent to charge a bit more then the discharge circuit activated and worked fine as well... there's no parasitic loads so it's 100% the measurement circuit.
What do you guys think is the best approach to try? patch the original board with a ~2MOhms or use the Analog Devices substitution discovered?
kiev said:
That's good if plastic and enclosed, just don't want any connection between Pack (-) and vehicle chassis.
You'll get P1A44 in that case. Field tested myself.
boothegermanshepherd said:
Mouser electronics
Not that rough. I've got some moisture in my AC connector (due to a corrupted condom on the deattached connector, see the prev. posts :) ) thus after every rain I had a tortoise and that error. There're highly scientific HV-lines isolation-checking features in our batteries so we're covered. Mostly. Likely. Probably.

Where to get an original AD202 when all the Ali says their products are original?
Also where to order the PCB (and PCB file would be appreciated as an option)

I love this community!
Dumb questions time. Do I need to pull out the inverter or its enough and easier to remove the bottom cover and the bottom board is easily accessable and quickly deattachable?
drcat said:
Dumb questions time. Do I need to pull out the inverter or its enough and easier to remove the bottom cover and the bottom board is easily accessable and quickly deattachable?

I unbolted the bottom cover and removed the large circuit board with everything in-situ. When you put it back be careful not to trap any of the wires under the bottom cover.
Sorry I've not been around much, life has been a bit complicated lately. Since I've done this repair my car has done nearly 2,500 miles. So far so good. :D

I've got a new batch of the AD202KN pcbs. They are £5 each including UK postage, £6 to the EU and £7 to anywhere else. If you require one message me with your address and email address and I will send you a PayPal invoice.


You will need to source the AD202KN, I got mine from Mouser but at the moment they are showing no stock until mid March. Octopart may help you find one. Avoid purchasing these from Chinese/Ebay suppliers as those don't seem to work properly.
Hi all

I'm Daan (Dutch, but living in Scotland, Dundee)
I've been enjoying driving the C-Zero ( a nice red one, which I stupidly sold) and now a
2011 Ion (it has ~90K miles on the clock so you can imagine the battery life) for the past 7 years.

This weekend, after a charge, the dreaded yellow light has come on. The light comes on both when trying to start the car (and it won't go in ready mode, gear shifts are fine, no problem with 12v battery, it's at 12.5-13.2 V) and also when trying to charge. The usual click-click of relays doesn't work. I haven't read/cleared codes, and while I'm a bit of a DIY-er/car fixer myself I think this might be beyond me.

From my reading what seems different (or isn't clearly mentioned) is that the yellow light also comes on when trying to (AC) charge, or does that always happen with P1A15 situations?

I've read the forum and there seem to be several of you local to Scotland.
At the moment it's stuck in a university car park. Is there any chance any you would be willing to come and give me a hand (at least read the code)? Happy to pay for your time/travel costs/treat you to a nice curry.

My family is quite attached to this (second) car and my youngest daughter is on it as a L driver so it would be great if we could revive it.
I'm also holding onto it just in case someone comes up with an awesome battery pack replacement in the longer term which would change it (back into) a very useful car.

Thanks in advance for any help/advice

best wishes

Howdy Daan, sorry to hear of your issues.

The P1A15 error is a Motor Control Unit (MCU) code concerning the rise time or voltage level of the big black capacitor in the MCU. It does not prevent the 3 main pack contactors from clacking and making their noise.

The On Board Charger (OBC) is only activated during plug-in for charging, and it too must have the 3 pack contactors engaged and clacking.

Since you hear none of the usual starting or charging sounds, then i'm guessing that you have some other issue.

Did you happen to test the 12V battery under load. If it is old or weak or worn out, then it could be the culprit even though it may seem to be reading a "normal" Open Circuit Voltage. Take it out of the car and charge it on the bench, then test it with a big load current.

Reading the DTCs is an easy DIY, there are several options for either wired or wireless, and there is a thread here about those options. Wireless uses your phone, android or apple, with either BlueTeeth or WiFi. The wired version iCarSoft i909.

There are some other forums over there in your continental area, uk or eu, that might lend some assistance.
Hi Daan,

You need to get the faults read. Any local independent garage should be able to do this for you. Another common problem is the gear selector linkage gets rusty and need periodic lubrication where the cable attaches. Does the dash display show "P" when the selector is in park?

If your really stuck and can get the car recovered to Galashiels I can check the faults at my garage.

Dumb questions in the mix. Anybody found a fully equivalent coolant for and adequate price? $16 per liter here and only 4 and 5 liters available so 60 bucks for the liquid I'd never need.

P.S. Wired my hybrid board out of the inverter box to avoid unbolting it next time when will need to mess with it through the top cover. Connected with two shielded stereo audio cables. Used a 2MOhms patch as a temporary solution while AD202 is on its way. Works.
Hi both

Thanks for taking the time to reply.
Some replies to your suggestions:

1) 12v battery was replaced 6 months ago. Nevertheless it's cold etc, so anticipating this suggestion, I used jump start cables with my (running) renault zoe ensuring proper voltage at terminals (13.2V with cigarette lighter voltmeter)

2) there is no problem with gear shifters - the correct letters are displayed on dash without flashing.

My Amazon ELM327 has just arrived, so I will brave the cold and try to go and read some codes!

Hi all

My efforts to read the OBD error codes.
I have both iphone and Android, combined with the Veepeak BT ODBII adapter
The only combination that works is on Android with OBDZero.
Problem is, while this outputs a lot of useful information it doesn't seem to have a function for reading error codes?

i don't know all the details but an ELM327 is considered a weaker chipset than the STM set used in the ScanTool OBDLink LX, and STM is the preferred solution from the authors of CanIon android app. Beware of counterfeits. Canion does not reset codes, but i think HobDrive may... somebody know?

There are numerous posts and threads about all the dongles and apps that do or don't work on the forum. A summary is found here:

Try using your dongle in your ICE car with Torque or some other phone app--it may still be useful for you.

Some users have more advanced tools, such as Simon has the diagbox OEM tool for Renault ?

Jason uses a Launch device, not sure which one but it is full featured.

Professional tools cost more: