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Better than pictures though is the parts themselves. Height differences are hard to discern from pictures alone. I received a full module and CMU boards (minus the cells) from an eBay seller in Canada. From this, I was able to figure out what was required to make spacer washers and bus bars for the unique cells Piev is currently working with. Also, I drew up and printed out a simple 3d printed "taco" for the bottom of his cells to center those cells in the stock plastic cell holders. All with his help, of course. He has ordered a small amount of metal parts to test fit and I sent him several tacos today to test as well. If everything fits then he will order the balance of metal parts.

celltaco.JPEG

Jim
 
I found out that once you shave off all of the extra plastic around the seven weld points of the top web you can use M3x10 countersunk screws to reattach the top web to the cell holder. There is a cavity there and a countersunk recess just meant for those screws. Makes for a very secure hold on that part.

M3X10.JPEG
 
Hello,

My son has completed the "Pack Removal" section of the documentation.



https://5by9.net/prune_batteries/module_rebuild.html

Hello,

My son has completed the "Pack Removal" section of the documentation. It may be found at:

https://5by9.net/prune_batteries/pack_removal.html

Thanks,
Michael
Clearly we're all very impressed and grateful for you and your son's work (as well as the pioneers of this thread), so i was wondering if maybe your son has a name? So that he may bath in the glory rather than being forever referred to as the prodigal son. 😁
 
Clearly we're all very impressed and grateful for you and your son's work (as well as the pioneers of this thread), so i was wondering if maybe your son has a name? So that he may bath in the glory rather than being forever referred to as the prodigal son. 😁

Yes, his name is Nicholas.

He's not looking for fame, he just wants to share.
 
I went through this thread and made a guide. I still haven't pulled the trigger on batteries but I'm asking a few vendors if they could manufacture the jumpers too
Step-by-step guide for upgrading the Mitsubishi i-MiEV battery:

Prerequisites:​

  • High-voltage safety knowledge and equipment
  • Basic mechanical and electrical skills
  • Access to MUT3 diagnostic tool or equivalent (Lexia/Diagbox)
  • Arduino Due or CANFDuino for CAN spoofing
  • Proper tools and workspace

Materials Needed:​

Battery Cells:
Hardware:

Step-by-Step Process:​

Battery Pack Removal
Module Rebuilding
CAN Bridge Setup
  • Install Arduino Due or CANFDuino
  • Download latest code from (github?)
  • Connect to vehicle:
    • CAN0 to BMU pins 6 & 7
    • CAN1 to ECU
    • Add 120Ω termination resistor on BMU side
    • Power from switched 12V
Battery Reset
  • Use MUT3 to reset battery capacity to 45Ah
  • Clear any DTCs
Testing & Validation
  • Check all connections and voltages
  • Verify CAN communication
  • Test drive and monitor performance
Important Notes:
  • Always follow proper high voltage safety procedures
  • Take time to properly balance cells before installation if there are any that have varying voltages connect in parallel for a few days.
  • Document original wiring and connections
  • The CAN bridge code is still being refined and improved
  • Consider weather conditions as NMC cells are sensitive to charging in freezing temperatures
 
Nice summary, some clarifications:

- no need to reset the battery capacity to 45Ah (value is ‘overwritten’ by the CAN bridge)

- no CAN termination required as bridge ‘sits’ between nodes (unless your CAN shield provides galvanic isolation)

- some clones (post 2012 IOn/CZero) run on 80 cells only

- driving with a ‘frozen’ NMC battery pack isn’t recommended as high regen currents can damage the cells permanently
 
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