Given how extensive this thread has become already, it may be a good idea to keep the outlander discussion separate or even better, move it to the myoutlanderphev forum altogether?
of course it is a centering system, but the small round heads remind me of a rivet. The final electrical connection would be made by tightening the nuts On the other hand, what is the purpose of the bump circled in red? is it the centering of the box lid?They look more like guide pins for accurate positioning IMHO…
That is a rivet to connect the aluminum current collectors to the positive terminal (cathode). It is also directly in contact with the case.what is the purpose of the bump circled in red?
What's the C rating of these things?I am looking at 90Ah batteries of smaller physical dimensions on all 3 axis.
ok, we can clearly see the connections. Removing the tabs without destroying the batteries is difficult, especially since you have to do it 176 times.That is a rivet to connect the aluminum current collectors to the positive terminal (cathode). It is also directly in contact with the case.
The negative anode terminal is insulated from the case and connects to the copper current collectors, probably thru a rivet underneath the extender tab.
The higher density copper and steel shows up brighter than aluminum in xray CT scans, and you can see how there is an insulation gap between the case and the - terminal. From the 787 screamliner fire investigation report:
View attachment 846
Once you remove the tabs, the M8 bolts will have nothing to hold them in place and what’s left is probably only good for the bin; I mean recycling, which you probably will have to pay for.ok, we can clearly see the connections. Removing the tabs without destroying the batteries is difficult, especially since you have to do it 176 times.
Any ideas on another solution?
Did you see page 1, post 11, for how paul did it using crimped ring terminals?Any ideas on another solution?
That works fine for cell voltages but it doesn’t make for accurate cell temperature measurements (post #14).Did you see page 1, post 11, for how paul did it using crimped ring terminals?
i wouldn't worry much about the low temperature case with it's long time constant--when it gets cold and freezing outside then it will be just as cold everywhere inside the pack over time.NMC cells may be damaged when charged below freezing..
Yes please mate! Any and all dimensions you can grab and photos of the pack and cells would be useful if you have the time.I have 80 2015 LEV40 outlander cells that I recently acquired if you want/need dimensions of the cells before pulling your pack apart
CJ I am also trying to learn this and I'll put out my summary thoughts and have the experts correct me where I am wrongHi all, sorry to but in being a newb. I want to also perform this upgrade, I have built booster packs for my various evs with good success and results. I am not afraid of mechanically fastening CMU boards or wiring bms components. what I do struggle with is coding and arduino things, which leads me to ask if there is a thread on the arduino DUE for this application so that I can learn it. are there any boards that I will need to make to implement this CAN bridge? if so where can I find that information? I have read this thread twice trying to find information (which it is full of) for the process, thanks in advance for both constructive and the other feedback that comes my way
I was asked to keep all outlander discussions separate so i started a new thread for outlander and my booster packs etcYes please mate! Any and all dimensions you can grab and photos of the pack and cells would be useful if you have the time.
Are you planning an upgrade / swap out? Or already finished?
You pretty much nailed it, just a few clarificationsCJ I am also trying to learn this and I'll put out my summary thoughts and have the experts correct me where I am wrong
Yes, but has also other means of communication
- The car uses CANbus to communicate to its various components
- Car Area Network
Don’t think so the PHEV is far more complex as it’s EV-ECU has to run both ICE and EV components, but if you mean the BMU I agree, it should be coded similar to a triplet2. The software on the PHEV and MiEV is the same
Yes, 88/80 LEV50x for EV, 80 LEV40 for PHEV3. The software is coded to utilise the standard OEM batteries
Yes, the car keeps a record of the current battery capacity, if you replace the battery without ‘telling’ the car your range will remain the same and may even decrease slowly as the BMU cannot correctly update the capacityIf you install a battery pack with greater range, the car cannot see it, you might get benefits from longer battery longevity but no extended mileage
Yes, ideally you would change the programming of the ECUs but that’s not possible presently, hence the need for a CAN bridge
- To get extended mileage you need to update the car's software
- @piev has a lot of entries on the code
You can reset the battery capacity to stock range but no further using MUT3
- I saw some talk on using the MUT3 software to update the range
The BMU will always run stock code, the bridge is put between the BMU and EV-ECU. It intercepts all data packages, modifies some and then passes them on.
- To update the code you need a bridge
- It sits in the middle of the CANbus and the car
- In programming its called man-in-the-middle
There are may different ‘flavours’ of Arduino, the code @piev has provided is written for an Arduino Due, the pinout is correct for a triplet, but may be different on an Outlander
I was informed that I left my code in this version that masks my CMU board error. So here is a version without that code.1) The cells were 88 mm tall LEV50's are 98mm so I added fillers so the cells would not move around. The are also thinner and so I added felt spacers between cells as well.
2) The length is a few mm longer and I had to use a Dremel tool to remove some of the plastic case so the cells did not distort the plastic case. I could force them in but it tore the blue shrink wrap and made the case bow. (171mm vs 174mm)
3) Yes, you still need to reset the capacity using a MUT3 or some other device. It will only reset to 48Ah. So the bridge allows you to use the 93Ah capacity.
BTW, for anyone following this thread. Attached is our latest version of the Bridge code.
Im not sure this is 100% correct, I added newer better capacity imiev lev 50 cells (all tested) from another car and over several full discharges below 4km on Gom and subsequent full balance charges the car has now increased its range above 100kms.Yes, the car keeps a record of the current battery capacity, if you replace the battery without ‘telling’ the car your range will remain the same and may even decrease slowly as the BMU cannot correctly update the capacity
Yes, that is correct if you replace LEV with LEV however when you use NMC chemistry the BMU’s capability to recognise the added capacity doesn’t work, unfortunately.I added newer better capacity imiev lev 50 cells (all tested) from another car and over several full discharges below 4km on Gom and subsequent full balance charges the car has now increased its range above 100kms.
It may well be possible that there is a limit how much range the GOM can display, but using 93Ah cells isn’t going anywhere near it…From the research into the upgraded CAN bridge it appears the imiev simply has a maximum range on the GOM too. But this could just be forum nonsense as this thread seems to have the code working and I don't know how the code works yet.
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