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Remove PIN 6 & 7 from BMU
Connect CAN0 of DUE to BMU
Terminate 120ohms
BMU CAN_H |--6-----------------| CAN0_H DUE CAN1_H |-----------ECU

BMU CAN_L --7-----------------|CAN0_L DUE CAN1_L |----------ECU

Connect wires that go to ECU that were in BMU to Due CAN1 No terminator necessary i.e. Pins 6 & 7
I would measure resistance into BMU and to ECU to make sure they are 120 ohms
 
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Remove PIN 6 & 7 from BMU
Connect CAN0 of DUE to BMU
Terminate 120ohms
BMU CAN_H |--6-----------------| CAN0_H DUE CAN1_H |-----------ECU

BMU CAN_L --7-----------------|CAN0_L DUE CAN1_L |----------ECU

Connect wires that go to ECU that were in BMU to Due CAN1 No terminator necessary i.e. Pins 6 & 7
I would measure resistance into BMU and to ECU to make sure they are 120 ohms
Hi piev!
I tried conecting my arduino and I was not succesfull. When i measured resitance into BMU it was 2,8 k ohms and resistance into ECU was 0 ohms. When i conected this setup, the SOC changed, but the car is reporting an error and wont start.
Than you for your help
 
Piev, I swapped it to switched power yesterday as Mickey suggested and no issues. Tried charging while off and no problems.
It just seems to lose the volt reading when off and gets itself into a catch 22.
I'll run it on switched power for now and see if there are any other issues.

Regards
Blinks
Thanks Blinks I did the same and agree that seemed to fix the issue. Been driving 3 days now with no glitches.
Oh, I also confirmed that The ECU turns on switched power to the BMU during charging
 
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pid 346[3] bit1 - error
pid 346[3] bit4 - turtle
pid 346[3] bit5 - ready
pid 346[3] bit6 - AC plugged
So, trying to understand this.....

0x346 2B 37 51 30 00 00 04 56

Byte 3 = 0x30 or 0011 000 in binary

So , you are saying count bits from right to left?
This says ready with turtle based on my interpretation.

Most of the time byte 3 is equal to 0x20 being just the ready bit on.
When i start the car it says 0x5F I am assuming this is when all the lights flash on start up.
 
Hi piev!
I tried conecting my arduino and I was not succesfull. When i measured resitance into BMU it was 2,8 k ohms and resistance into ECU was 0 ohms. When i conected this setup, the SOC changed, but the car is reporting an error and wont start.
Than you for your help
Hey bokaj25,

We may need more information than that. Is is an i-MiEV or something else. What year is your vehicle. I haven't looked at the pinouts of every year model. Attached to this message is the schematic for the 2012 i-MiEV. connector c-107 is the connector on the BMU under the back seat. In later models they pu the BMU in the battery. I suspect you are using the wrong pins if you are reading 0 ohms. It should read close to 120 ohms and the BMU measurements sounded correct if my memory is right. So on the side with 2.8k ohms you need a terminating resistor on you can device. You also need to verify that you CAN device is working properly. I connected two separate CAN devices to mine to verify it was capturing the frames and transmitting them correctly before I tried it in the car. Maybe take some pictures of your setup so we can see what you are doing.
 

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I tried to assemble a dashboard for C-Zero with a custom design using Nextion HMI. Porsche 356 style))
View attachment 503
That is nice. Are you using the original PID's from the vehicle3 to drive this display? I tried to hook up a MiEV display I have and couldn't seem to power it up. I was going to do something similar and was trying to play around with the idea. Any info you can pass on would be useful
 
Yes I am using the original dashboard PIDs. I started this project before I even bought the car. It was intended for installation on a replica Porsche 356, on i-miev units. With the outbreak of the war, the customer stopped funding, and I continue to develop it for my car. I use mcp2115+Arduino Nano+Nextion Intelligent 7. I plan to publish a more detailed description when I get 100% working.
I have been creating dashboards and EVs for a long time. Some projects can be seen on my YouTube channel
https://www.youtube.com/@LexaFrud
 
Hey bokaj25,

We may need more information than that. Is is an i-MiEV or something else. What year is your vehicle. I haven't looked at the pinouts of every year model. Attached to this message is the schematic for the 2012 i-MiEV. connector c-107 is the connector on the BMU under the back seat. In later models they pu the BMU in the battery. I suspect you are using the wrong pins if you are reading 0 ohms. It should read close to 120 ohms and the BMU measurements sounded correct if my memory is right. So on the side with 2.8k ohms you need a terminating resistor on you can device. You also need to verify that you CAN device is working properly. I connected two separate CAN devices to mine to verify it was capturing the frames and transmitting them correctly before I tried it in the car. Maybe take some pictures of your setup so we can see what you are doing.
Hi piev,

I have a Peugeot ion model year 2015. I already changed original LEV 50 cells to to 90 Ah cells. I tried my Arduino due by conecting CAN 0 and CAN 1 outputs together, it works, so i am prety sure that my device works. I measured a resistance into the ECU and now i get 160 ohms. I conectted my can device betwen pins 6 and 7. I attached a few pictures of my setup.
Thank you for your help!
 

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Hi,
i runned test code from post #6 and now it works. I think i have some problems with terminator resitor.
Does any final version of code exist so i can try it?
Thank you for your help.
 
Hi,
i runned test code from post #6 and now it works. I think i have some problems with terminator resitor.
Does any final version of code exist so i can try it?
Thank you for your help.
I believe the current version is in post #107
 
I didn’t open this yet but the one you emailed me had a few typos like SoC instead of SoC2 so it would not compile.
I assumed they were supposed to be SoC2.
 
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I am beginning the process of upgrading my traction battery in my modified 2012 i-MiEV. I received my battery shipment last week and started looking at fitting the cells. I replaced several low voltage cells last year so I had a spare plastic 4 cell box that I could start looking at prior to dropping the battery pack.

What modifications did you do to the cell boxes to make them fit? I see the image of the new cells mounted in the box on piev's post #11 but I couldn't tell what modifications were done. Does it require opening up the width as indicated in green below? Also how did you compensate for the shorter height? Thanks in advance.
 

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I am beginning the process of upgrading my traction battery in my modified 2012 i-MiEV. I received my battery shipment last week and started looking at fitting the cells. I replaced several low voltage cells last year so I had a spare plastic 4 cell box that I could start looking at prior to dropping the battery pack.

What modifications did you do to the cell boxes to make them fit? I see the image of the new cells mounted in the box on piev's post #11 but I couldn't tell what modifications were done. Does it require opening up the width as indicated in green below? Also how did you compensate for the shorter height? Thanks in advance.
Hey pebbles,

Wish you luck in this endeavor.

Yes, I used a drimel tool to mill out some plastic so the case didn’t deform when I inserted cells. I used cork spacers to lift the cells to the desired height. Purchased at a hobby store.
 

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Hey Guys,

My car shut down while I was driving a couple of times. The turtle came on a few times but only shut down twice. I was looking at the data but not sure what is going on. Byte 3 is the error byte and it shows bit 6 on which is supposed to be AC plugged in. Doesn't make sense. Am I reading it wrong is this bit 1 on? Which is just error according to Frud. Of course, he said bit 5 is ready and the rest of the time it says decimal 32 which is 00100000 bit 2 or 5. so I guess am counting wrong and it's bit 1 on (error). Then 48 would be 4 & 5 which is turtle and ready. Then 95 (0101111) is probably when I turned the key off and then on. I haven't checked the codes yet to see if any were set but it powered right back up. And I have no idea what byte 4 means because it went non-zero as well. Looks like the turtle is shutting me down but I don't know what's causing it. Data attached.
7/5/2024 16:46​
346
45​
115​
93​
32​
0​
0​
4​
128​
7/5/2024 16:46​
346
46​
122​
93​
48​
0​
0​
4​
128​
7/5/2024 16:46​
346
39​
16​
93​
2​
64​
0​
4​
128​
7/5/2024 16:46​
346
39​
16​
93​
2​
64​
0​
4​
128​
7/5/2024 16:46​
346
39​
16​
93​
2​
64​
0​
4​
128​
7/5/2024 16:46​
346
39​
16​
93​
2​
64​
0​
4​
128​
7/5/2024 16:46​
346
39​
16​
93​
2​
64​
0​
4​
128​
7/5/2024 16:46​
346
39​
16​
93​
2​
64​
0​
4​
128​
7/5/2024 16:46​
346
39​
16​
93​
2​
64​
0​
4​
128​
7/5/2024 16:46​
346
39​
16​
93​
0​
0​
0​
4​
128​
7/5/2024 16:46​
346
39​
16​
5​
95​
73​
0​
7​
255​
7/5/2024 16:47​
346
39​
77​
93​
32​
0​
0​
4​
126​
I checked the codes today.
U1116 KOS CAN Timeout
P1A30 Cell Low EV-ECU (BMU)
U1161 EV-ECU message lost (BMU)
P1AC5 MCU message lost (BMU)
U111C BMU Can timeout
P1A58 CMU07 Cell low <2.3V
U1111 which I couldn't find but i believe it's a can loss message

I must have an intermittent BMU bus problem.
Hard to tell because the only active one was U1116 which I believe is the Key
The rest were stored
I suspect the low cell is what gave me the turtle though I didn't find it in the data.
 

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