Here it suggests that the resistor in inside the charge port...
https://www.picoauto.com/library/au...rger-vehicle-proximity-line-resistance-type-1
Help to get a wrecked car working, clearing error codes
- Thread starter Timh
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@kiev is the expert on all OBC but I hope he will agree with my basic understanding:
The OBC and DC/DC are essentially two different components sharing the same housing. The schematic shows the DC/DC being powered directly and being monitored by the EV-ECU. The OBC has it's own CAN module which communicates only when the car is AC charging (or getting ready to do so). The EV-ECU only activates the OBC when it's 'happy' that all pre-conditions are met, e.g. cable plugged in...
No, just the DC/DC component is active when driving
That the DCDC converter is working whilst in READY indicates that the 20A HV fuse in the Motor Control Unit is intact.
Take a look at the last couple of pages of this MSB pdf about checking the EVSE to EV-ECU line,
Mits Service Bulletin
Is your J1772 charge port intact, or has it been damaged or moved to another location? The reason i ask is that i see an orange sheathed cable hanging down by the RR tire in the picture of your car.
Take a look at the last couple of pages of this MSB pdf about checking the EVSE to EV-ECU line,
Mits Service Bulletin
Is your J1772 charge port intact, or has it been damaged or moved to another location? The reason i ask is that i see an orange sheathed cable hanging down by the RR tire in the picture of your car.
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OK, but what I was getting at is, if the ev-ecu sends them both 14v using the same relay, then the fact that the dcdc works means that the relay, it's cabling from ev-ecu and the supply to the obc/dcdc work.
But then why do I hear nothing when doing the actuator test?
So I have to check the supply to that relay when I plug the charger in and see if the ev-ecu is trying to trigger the OBC or not, to determine if the problem is charger side, or if the ev-ecu is deciding that something doesn't allow for charging.
Then go from there.
I've also arranged to borrow a real type 1 charger on the weekend, to rule that out.
Is there a layout for the relays under the steering wheel somewhere?
But then why do I hear nothing when doing the actuator test?
So I have to check the supply to that relay when I plug the charger in and see if the ev-ecu is trying to trigger the OBC or not, to determine if the problem is charger side, or if the ev-ecu is deciding that something doesn't allow for charging.
Then go from there.
I've also arranged to borrow a real type 1 charger on the weekend, to rule that out.
Is there a layout for the relays under the steering wheel somewhere?
Follow the link at step 3. listed in this post of the OBC Troubleshooting thread to see that there are 2 relays and fuses involved,
Troubleshooting tips
Troubleshooting tips
I have always thought the PP resistor (that tells the evse that it is connected to a car) is a 2.7k resistor between pin4 PP and pin5 protective earth. I think it is in the socket and has nothing to do with the car's chassis ground.
It seems like they're a little confused about it too.
I can't remember much nowadays, so that could be horse do do.
You can back-probe pin 2 of the gray E-03 connector on the OBC to see whether or not it is getting 12V when you plug in the EVSE. Without that power line the OBC will not charge.
The DC/DC isn’t powered through the OBC relay, it has its own, permanent feed (E-03, pin 7)
So, after spending a fair while trying to understand the pin layouts of the relay box (is that just me then?). I can report that they all work, as do the connections, and pin 2 of obc connector does indeed receive, on connection of evse, battery voltage of about 12.6, which quickly rises to 14.5, and then drops back to 12.6, and finally 0 as all the relays and fan switch on, and then off.
So do I have a faulty charger with no fault codes? Oh crap.
So do I have a faulty charger with no fault codes? Oh crap.
The main fault that can occur in the OBC that doesn't throw a code, is a time-out of the AC detection circuit. Typically this is due to damaged components in the AC Input section of the charger (fuse, ZNRs, spark arrestor, X2 safety caps, ceramic resistors, etc)
That sounds out of my safe zone. Well, a fuse would be OK! So a charger removal is required I guess.
Incidentally I checked the standard charge port cabling, it's all as original. Nothing removed, nothing dangling, just funny angles and no bodywork.
Incidentally I checked the standard charge port cabling, it's all as original. Nothing removed, nothing dangling, just funny angles and no bodywork.
This is my understanding of the J1772 charging,
The 2.7k resistor in the car connector on the PP line is used to signal to the car that a Plug is Present (to prevent READY mode and driving away). The PP line is also used to send an external request to end charging (pressing the release button).
The voltage on the CP line has several functions. It is first used by the EVSE to detect that a car is present, then to announce to the car the maximum available current, then to detect that the car thinks it is charging, then to acknowledge a request to end, and to indicate that the session is over.
The 2.7k resistor in the car connector on the PP line is used to signal to the car that a Plug is Present (to prevent READY mode and driving away). The PP line is also used to send an external request to end charging (pressing the release button).
The voltage on the CP line has several functions. It is first used by the EVSE to detect that a car is present, then to announce to the car the maximum available current, then to detect that the car thinks it is charging, then to acknowledge a request to end, and to indicate that the session is over.
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The OBC doesn't need to be removed for inspection or repair. This is all covered in the OBC troubleshooting thread.
Well yes, there is some of it, I guess. But I'm not capable of going any further without hand holding. As I see no blackness or swelling or suchlike I will put it back together and hope it was just that the car didn't like the evse, which I'll replace on the Saturday. And if that isn't the miracle cure I'll read the massive thread but that might be the end of the story!
Remove the control connector.
Unscrew the main teminals.
Disconnect the Faston connector of the black and white jumpers.
Remove the 4 hold-down screws in the order marked on the board numbered circles with arrows}.
Carefully lift the left side of the control board and lay it over to the right side (mind the flat ribbon cable) to expose the bottom power board.
Inspect for damage.
Unscrew the main teminals.
Disconnect the Faston connector of the black and white jumpers.
Remove the 4 hold-down screws in the order marked on the board numbered circles with arrows}.
Carefully lift the left side of the control board and lay it over to the right side (mind the flat ribbon cable) to expose the bottom power board.
Inspect for damage.
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