Help to get a wrecked car working, clearing error codes

[tomhanman]

Everything in that schematic is on the car.

Here it suggests that the resistor in inside the charge port...

https://www.picoauto.com/library/au...rger-vehicle-proximity-line-resistance-type-1

 

[MickeyS70]

Well the dcdc converter is working fine when in ready so does that mean there's nothing wrong with the signal pathway or activity of the OBC relay?

@kiev is the expert on all OBC but I hope he will agree with my basic understanding:

The OBC and DC/DC are essentially two different components sharing the same housing. The schematic shows the DC/DC being powered directly and being monitored by the EV-ECU. The OBC has it's own CAN module which communicates only when the car is AC charging (or getting ready to do so). The EV-ECU only activates the OBC when it's 'happy' that all pre-conditions are met, e.g. cable plugged in...

Does it also mean the OBC is powered up the whole time the vehicle is driving, even though that's the exact time the OBC can't be used?

No, just the DC/DC component is active when driving

 

[kiev]

That the DCDC converter is working whilst in READY indicates that the 20A HV fuse in the Motor Control Unit is intact.

Take a look at the last couple of pages of this MSB pdf about checking the EVSE to EV-ECU line,
Mits Service Bulletin

Is your J1772 charge port intact, or has it been damaged or moved to another location? The reason i ask is that i see an orange sheathed cable hanging down by the RR tire in the picture of your car.

 

[tomhanman]

OK, but what I was getting at is, if the ev-ecu sends them both 14v using the same relay, then the fact that the dcdc works means that the relay, it's cabling from ev-ecu and the supply to the obc/dcdc work.

But then why do I hear nothing when doing the actuator test?

So I have to check the supply to that relay when I plug the charger in and see if the ev-ecu is trying to trigger the OBC or not, to determine if the problem is charger side, or if the ev-ecu is deciding that something doesn't allow for charging.

Then go from there.

I've also arranged to borrow a real type 1 charger on the weekend, to rule that out.

Is there a layout for the relays under the steering wheel somewhere?

 

[tomhanman]

Hmm, again I didn't get to see three quarters of your message when replying. I must be having a slow web day. I'll go check the photos I posted, but I haven't seen any damage back there. Let me get back to you!

 

[tomhanman]

That? I think that's where it's supposed to be, just more visible because of the lack of bodywork. But I will be sure to confirm tomorrow. Now off to read your link. Thanks.

 

[kiev]

Follow the link at step 3. listed in this post of the OBC Troubleshooting thread to see that there are 2 relays and fuses involved,
Troubleshooting tips

 

[tomhanman]

Take a look at the last couple of pages of this MSB pdf about checking the EVSE to EV-ECU line,
Mits Service Bulletin

I have always thought the PP resistor (that tells the evse that it is connected to a car) is a 2.7k resistor between pin4 PP and pin5 protective earth. I think it is in the socket and has nothing to do with the car's chassis ground.

It seems like they're a little confused about it too.

I can't remember much nowadays, so that could be horse do do.

 

[kiev]

You can back-probe pin 2 of the gray E-03 connector on the OBC to see whether or not it is getting 12V when you plug in the EVSE. Without that power line the OBC will not charge.

 

[MickeyS70]

OK, but what I was getting at is, if the ev-ecu sends them both 14v using the same relay, then the fact that the dcdc works means that the relay, it's cabling from ev-ecu and the supply to the obc/dcdc work.

The DC/DC isn’t powered through the OBC relay, it has its own, permanent feed (E-03, pin 7)

 

[tomhanman]

So, after spending a fair while trying to understand the pin layouts of the relay box (is that just me then?). I can report that they all work, as do the connections, and pin 2 of obc connector does indeed receive, on connection of evse, battery voltage of about 12.6, which quickly rises to 14.5, and then drops back to 12.6, and finally 0 as all the relays and fan switch on, and then off.

So do I have a faulty charger with no fault codes? Oh crap.