The Troubleshooting and Repair for On-board Charger (OBC) Thread

[Exhausted76]

Take a look at this post and the few following it, there is a pictorial of the steps to replacing the snubbers when soldering to the stubs is not possible.

https://myimiev.com/threads/the-tro...r-on-board-charger-obc-thread.4079/post-39234

Hi,

Can I please just check that the capacitors themselves are just sat in free space and are not 'mounted' in any way other than the legs connecting into the upper part of the board (N0/P0) as pictured (i.e. not connected to C122/C121).

 

[kiev]

Note: be careful when bending the wire leads of the caps to not break the "blend" of the ceramic/porcelain cover to the leads. Hold the wire with pliers so no force is put into the blend.

That is correct--no connection to the C122/121 solder joints (cover them with sealant such a Permatex Ultra Gray Form-in-Place Gasket FIPG maker, non-acidic calcium carbonate filler).

Solder your new caps directly in parallel to the N0/P0 solder junctions. The wire leads and held by the solder and the sealant acts as vibration damper and provides some additional support. They are just floating in free space as you say.

The side fence wall could be removed completely if it makes it easier to route the leads and make the soldering, just insulate everything to avoid any issues later.

DBMandrake posted about the repairs with a couple of video links here:
https://myimiev.com/threads/the-tro...r-on-board-charger-obc-thread.4079/post-39902

 

[Exhausted76]

That is correct--no connection to the C122/121 solder joints (cover them with sealant such a Permatex Ultra Gray Form-in-Place Gasket FIPG maker, non-acidic calcium carbonate filler).

Solder your new caps directly in parallel to the N0/P0 solder junctions. The wire leads and held by the solder and the sealant acts as vibration damper and provides some additional support.

DBMandrake posted about the repairs with a couple of video links here:
https://myimiev.com/threads/the-tro...r-on-board-charger-obc-thread.4079/post-39902

Massive thanks

 

[kiev]

See note added about the "blend"

 

[san004]

hello forum members. I am the owner of a Nissan Leaf. but I'm writing here because this branch is the most active on the Internet for the so-called waffle maker. I have a Nissan Leaf Zeo 2012 charger that does not charge from a 220 volt network, but from a charger it charges without problems. I have already partially disassembled it, measured the resistance of T1, T4, P1, N1 and all the closed circuits, the resistance is zero. that is, that node burned down. it remains to desolder the wafer (I know it's difficult), but I have many years of soldering experience. but I am more afraid of the compound (epoxy glue). I read that it is successfully used with a dental drill. but I think nothing else takes it? for example, if you soak it in a solvent for several days, I have seen reviews that it (in other spaces) can be heated up to 200-300 degrees Celsius with a thermophone. what do you say about this?

 

[kiev]

measured the resistance of T1, T4, P1, N1 and all the closed circuits, the resistance is zero

Did you try using the diode check function of your meter? And swap the direction/polarity of the meter probes?

i'm working on one right now that appears to measure okay but i can see blown chunks of black epoxy rattling around and exposed transistor leads in the lower right quadrant of the plate. So we may have to figure out additional measurements to assess the condition.

Was there any issue with your 12V battery, e.g. old, weak or worn out, related to your car charging session when this happened?

 

[san004]

Did you try using the diode check function of your meter? And swap the direction/polarity of the meter probes?

i'm working on one right now that appears to measure okay but i can see blown chunks of black epoxy rattling around and exposed transistor leads in the lower right quadrant of the plate. So we may have to figure out additional measurements to assess the condition.

Was there any issue with your 12V battery, e.g. old, weak or worn out, related to your car charging session when this happened?

thank you for your reply. I have already removed the board and through the gap between the waffle and the board the semiconductor exploded and its contacts can be seen in this very place. This is 100%. now I have the task of unsoldering a waffle and making a computer. I want to do this repair myself, because it seems to me that the problem is only in this part of the waffle. something else is possible, but it is not global.

 

[kiev]

where is this fuse located

http://mmc-manuals.ru/manuals/i-miev/online/Service_Manual/2012/54/html/M154930720001500ENG.HTM

There are pictures in this thread, the first picture in post #1 shows the fuse access cover of the Motor Control Unit, MCU, removed. You will need a Torx security bit to remove the access cover.

If the fuse is blown, then the car may still go to READY and drive, but it will not be able to Charge both batteries, the HV traction pack using AC into the OBC, and the 12V starter battery using the DCDC Converter.

 

[kiev]

semiconductor exploded and its contacts can be seen in this very place.

i have that exact same damage on one for repair. It is also damaged in the middle section on the left side.

 

[san004]

good day I removed my wafer from the board and I see such damage. these are burned out transistors rjp6012 and STB27NM60ND. I want to buy similar ones and try to call whether there are others that did not explode. I understand correctly that those that did not explode can also be burned?

 

[kiev]

Without knowing why this happened, or what caused it to happen, it is probably a good idea to replace any and all components that may have been stressed by this explosive event.

That is to say, it would be a lot of work to replace these parts and reassemble, only to have the other H-bridge to fail soon thereafter.

Do you have any tips or tricks for removing the epoxy from the board?

 

[Fuseit]

Save another placeholder for edits,

Amazing information Kiev, thank you so much. Am I correct in thinking this plastic ribbon plate is held on to the board by the slots in pic 1A
Is there contact points through them slots in pic 1A? And what is this ribbon connection for? It maybe what is causing some of my issues if it’s not actually connected.

 

[kiev]

The beige colored connector is attached to the board and soldered in place--it is not intended to come off, only the cable slides in and out of the connector. There is a black slider that acts to clamp or lock the flat ribbon cable in place. See this post on how to remove the cable (i just use my finger nail, not a metal tool):

https://myimiev.com/threads/the-tro...r-on-board-charger-obc-thread.4079/post-46554

 

[MickeyS70]

It maybe what is causing some of my issues if it’s not actually connected.

Absolutely, as @kiev mentioned, the beige coloured connector is meant to be attached to the board with all the little pins soldered on.

Best to bring it back to whomever ‘repaired’ it, as it doesn’t come off on it’s own.

 

[Fuseit]

As soon as the top board is unscrewed from these charrgers (2012 onwards), you have to deal with a flexible ribbon that connects the top and bottom boards. Conductors on this ribbon are spaced 0.5 mm (less than 20 thousandths of an inch) apart, so the connector is a delicate, precision part. The ribbon carries vital signals, such as coil drive for the relay; if this drive is lost, the pre-charge resistors try to carry the full mains power and fail open circuit. I've seen too many of these high density connectors damaged. It was not obvious to me how to disconnect them without damage. Here is the place on the connector to apply a small screwdriver, outlined in yellow:

Pressing on the area outlined in yellow seems to lift the left part of the clip, allowing it to clear the barb outlined in red. To unclip the ribbon, apply a small screwdriver as shown below, pushing down and towards the ribbon:

The ribbon should move away from the white connector with very little force. If you need more than a little force, you're not doing it right, and will likely damage the connector / clip.

Good morning and many thanks for the information provided. Just to clarify the soldering process, does this mean each of them contact legs has to be soldered to the board?

 

[MickeyS70]

Good morning and many thanks for the information provided. Just to clarify the soldering process, does this mean each of them contact legs has to be soldered to the board?

Yes, fine solder tip and steady hand required.

 

[Fuseit]

Yes, fine solder tip and steady hand required.

Amazing Mickey, thank you so much for sourcing this very useful video. This explains the Absence of Communication error messages. Fabulous

 

[Fuseit]

Thank you

 

[kiev]

It might be possible to take the boards and cable components to an electronics repair shop (cell phones, tv, etc) to do the soldering?

How or why was the connector removed such as this--not sure i've ever seen this before.

 

[Sandrosan]

Hi Kiev, actually I have seen exactly the same because a guy with "too big hands...and limited brain lat me say" removed the control board without too much attention. Then he bring the OBC to me. I took hours for resoldering the connector as the location is not easy even using the right stuff. It worked for 2 weeks and then the wafer exploded probably due to an unstable contact of my resoldering.