ASC fails, finally stranded and runs fine again

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Got it for a steal from the first owner, 40.000 km. 10 years old. But from road-salted Trondheim, Norway. So it's white on top, but orange brown underneath.

Drove my 2013 mitsu without much trouble trough the norwegian winter, however many times I got an ❗ and two slippery signs in the dash when starting (see pic).
I turned the car off, tried again and all was well.

But last friday after some errands in town the car stopped. Nice weather, no rain for a few days. Car had driven all week.

READY remained. Same warning lights lit up. But car took the power away from the gas pedal.
Switched the car off and on. All seems fine. Could drive 10 meters/yards before it happened again. Was ther some rumble from the back axle? It rolled backwards on the slope but when accelerating, some braking, or stutter in power, vibration or sound? Not sure. Took me 4 starts to crawl it to a safe place.
70% range left. Let it sit for 3 days. Couldn't find threads on this specific problem. Took Too Many Screenshots. I did bookmark this (and follow up thread "drilling ruckelt") and that. There were some similarities but nowhere the exact same problem.

Monday. Turn off seat and air heating. Plug in i909.

ABS - U1104, U1426, U1073
ETACS - U1111
EV ECU - P1AE7, P1A21
MCU - P0A43

Started it and drove around. Fine!

Tuesday. Drive it home (22 km). Fine.
Clear DTCs. Couldn't remove some of them (probably the U's iirc).
Test charging the car from mains. Works fine.
Visually inspect cables/contacts in engine room. Dusty and rusty but no obvious issue.
Measure aux battery.

OFF 12,91 volts.
ACC 12,66 and declining
ON 12,07
READY 14,43
OFF 12,22 and creeping up

That looks acceptable to me!
Remove battery. Contacts were clean.
Inspect for production date.
211012S the only viable inscript (see pic).
Can't be! It says Shin Kobe battery corp. That's a nippon brand...not EU?
See trough the old bills the previous owner saved.
Contact him, since he was an engineer of some sort, he could've changed it himself. No, he doesn't recall ever changing the 12v battery.
10 and a half years by now. Trough the middle Norwegian winters. Looks almost new.

So that's where we're at now, a new battery (Biltema 80-2451 someone on elbilforum.no says fits) will be here tonight.

Since I couldn't duplicate the stalling, I will try with a new battery and hope for the best.

Added some pics from i909 that I found strange. Please comment.

Any feedback will be appreciated!
 

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Intermittent faults are typically due to wiring or connector issues (rodents, corrosion).
But in your case i think the 12V battery is old, weak and worn out. The quick rise and fall of the voltage indicates sulfation damage to me and it is not likely to sustain the required loads. That is typically seen in numerous DTCs especially the U codes of the CAN Buss. And those can shut down the car to prevent driving or charging.

The i909 scans show a CAN fail but there is the backup K-line that the car will use.

Remedy the 12V, then re-scan.
 
is the rumbling from the back axle the traction control kicking in ? mine has had that sort of grating noise sometimes when cornering on hard power
 
is the rumbling from the back axle the traction control kicking in ? mine has had that sort of grating noise sometimes when cornering on hard power
ASC kicking in at inopportune times when cornering at speed (especially on a rough road surface) can result in a loss of either power or regen accompanied by unexpected noises from the wheels. Mismatched tires can exacerbate this. I usually turn off ASC when engaging in spirited driving.
 
Thanks for your replies!

That rumble, it was so faint that I'm still not sure if I imagined it.
First thought was ABS, gear box, or the drive motor stuttering.
But judging by the fault codes it probably had to do with the stability control having a stroke.

Both good and bad news is that I can't reproduce the error... can't really believe it might have been fixed now. We'll just have try and see.

Changed the battery for an 45Ah calcium/calcium maintenance free one. Would've loved an AGM motorcycle batt but I needed a quick fix so this will do.
It's wider and higher than the original for anyone interested, pretty close the airco pipes and fuse box. Ditched the plastic tray and made a bed of bicycle inner tube against vibrations.

First 50km (ca 34m) no issues!

Adding pics from the original/previous battery. Can anyone confirm this is the brand the cars came shipped with?

If so, incredible that it performes the way it does after an 11,5 yrs life in a low mileage car??
Might go to show that what's really shortens a battery (pun) is the amp drain from an ice starter motor.

Will test drive some more and report!
 

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Shin Kobe Electric Machinery Company Ltd, made in japan

34B19L(S)
211012S
YBJ09III
050558
 
Yes, I'd bet that was the original 12V battery, weak and causing most of the errors.
The 'stuttering' from the rear axle may be a 'normal' glitch of these cars. It is common for the motor to knock back and forth a few times if you switch into D while still rolling in Reverse at any speed, and I think I've experienced it when actually stopped, but shifting very quickly. No known issues from that yet, but it can be dramatic in the worst instances.
 
It looks like the OEM to me;
DDMMYY
Oct. 21, 2012 ? Seems about right for a 2013 model. What is the date on the door jam label?

JMBLDHA4WDU000273

BrandMITSUBISHI
NameI-MIEV
MarketEurope
ModificationEV(WAGON) - EV(2WD) LHD
Date11.2012
Trimcolor62J
FramecolorW37A
PaintW37
FramesHA0#
Modelyearfrom06.2009
 
Update!

The car has behaved almost perfect,
The only fail, which happened once, was the asc system warning light issue( turn off ignition, try again, fine!).

As I cannot imagine this related to the starter battery, it might be rusty/dirty contacts, worn out parts, or the like.
 
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