2011 IMiev with warranty replaced battery, non-runner, considering sale - UK, Devon

[WhyMiev]

Evening folks,

The short version is that I've got this IMiev that needs a repair (P1A15) to get it running again but has had its traction battery replaced under warranty about 3 years ago. It was still reading 70 miles on full charge and my scanner is showing a whopping 45.50 Ah Battery current capacity, so i'm trying to work out what the battery / car might be worth to someone, before I try and set aside the time to carry out the repair.

I'm assuming, perhaps incorrectly, that most of the value would be in the battery so i'll jump in with the numbers from my i909 scanner:
- Battery current capacity: 45.50 Ah
- Battery remaining capacity: 41.30 Ah
- '' total voltage: 357.60
- '' max / min cell voltage: 4.07/4.06 V
- max / min internal resistance: 3 mohm (both)

If there's any interest I can find out when exactly the replacement happened (prev owner) and how many miles since then.

The longer story is that I got this car summer last year with about 75,000 miles on the clock (it'd been a steady commuter for prev owner). Loved the car, but it developed the classic DC-DC exploding capacitors fault. It last drove before Christmas last year, so that a mitsu garage could tell me what I already knew. I carried the repair as per the wealth of information on this forum and the DC-DC came back to life and took on most of a full charge. Before the champagne could be popped it now refused to enter ready mode with the infamous P1A15 (I suspect this was a rare intermittent fault before the DC-DC failure). It looks to me like its asking for a AD202KN / hybrid board replacement or repair but i'm not sure when I'll get a chance to do it. The purpose of this post is for me try and get a gauge of what the alternative route would look like, how much value can be recovered from the battery and or car as a whole. I'd like to think there's someone in the UK looking for a heart transplant for their IMiev and that this might be of interest to them.

If there's not much appetite i'll crack on with the repair, i've not given up on it just yet.

Thanks for reading, big fan of this forum and all the info shared here.

 

[MickeyS70]

Hi there

It would be a shame to get rid of this car when the battery is in such a good nick…

Having said that I might know a guy who might know someone looking for a replacement traction battery, therefore do you know what cells the pack is made of (LEV50 or improved LEV50N)?

 

[WhyMiev]

Hi Mickey,

Thanks for the response.

I'll try and find out today. Would that information be available from the scanner (i909)? Otherwise I could see if I can get access to paperwork from the warranty repair perhaps, or is there something I can physically check?

Many thanks.

 

[MickeyS70]

LEV50N identification has always been a bit of a mystery, on original packs you could go by the chassis no of the car, but that doesn’t help here. What might work is if you could get the manufacture date of the battery as the label should be accessible in situ.

What is for certain however is that a 2011 BMS needs an upgrade to make use of the different LEV50N chemistry, check if there is any mention in the paperwork.

Might also be helpful if you could get the current BMS version, not sure if that’s possible without a dealer diags software.

Mickey

 

[WhyMiev]

Thanks for the info.

I'll chase for any paperwork that may be available.

Where would I find and access this battery label, with it in situ and car on the ground?

Thanks again

 

[MickeyS70]

Have a look at the drawing linked:

https://www.nengun.com/oem/parts/MTYyMjE3IC0gSXpMd241cUFOVFR3bjVxQk5qUXdMREEgLSBFdiBCYXR0ZXJ5IFBhY2sgMQ==

Detail A is what the white label looks like, best way to access it is to stick in a phone in at the back wheel and reach into the gap between motor and the battery. Turn the camera towards the center of battery cover and take a few pics (might need to wipe the dirty off before you can see anything)

On the right side of the bar code you should find 2 numbers: mine are 11/08 which ties in with the car’s build date of August 2011…

 

[WhyMiev]

Hi Mickey,

Paperwork still pending, and no joy on the BMS with the scanner.

However, I can confirm the battery recently celebrated its third birthday - 20 / 01.

I also pulled from the BMU the 'Sum total time back up' field, which shows 33.58 months. Not sure if that is an accurate gauge of when it was installed.

Many thanks.

 

[MickeyS70]

Hi Mickey,

Paperwork still pending, and no joy on the BMS with the scanner.

However, I can confirm the battery recently celebrated its third birthday - 20 / 01.

I also pulled from the BMU the 'Sum total time back up' field, which shows 33.58 months. Not sure if that is an accurate gauge of when it was installed.

Many thanks.

Good, that really points to a LEV50N pack, but bad for my colleague’s car as his BMU needs to be upgraded to handle the improved cells.

Does anybody out there know, can you just simply swap and the battery and BMU to achieve this?

 

[Luddite]

Good, that really points to a LEV50N pack, but bad for my colleague’s car as his BMU needs to be upgraded to handle the improved cells.

Does anybody out there know, can you just simply swap and the battery and BMU to achieve this?

If I remember correctly, someone else on the forum tried to do this, but I can't find the post..
Are you considering parting out the car?

My 2011 peugeot ion is still for sale, but just failed MOT on corrosion on rear brake pipes.
I would like to get this fixed before I sell it but I read that for the whole brake pipe to be replaced, the battery needs to be removed?

https://www.speakev.com/threads/im...pes-corrode-due-to-a-lack-of-underseal.70793/

How is the corrosion on your car?

 

[kiev]

Could the rust on the brake lines be cleaned off with a metal brush, then prime and paint the lines? Or is the rust more than just on the surface?

 

[Luddite]

Could the rust on the brake lines be cleaned off with a metal brush, then prime and paint the lines? Or is the rust more than just on the surface?

Surface rust will generally give an advisory, but "passes" the MOT.
For it to fail , it usually worse although it's not bad enough to be classed as dangerous.
If I covered them up, it should technically pass as MOT testers aren't allowed to remove covers etc, but if I get this job done, it shouldn't need done again.

 

[WhyMiev]

Good, that really points to a LEV50N pack, but bad for my colleague’s car as his BMU needs to be upgraded to handle the improved cells.

Does anybody out there know, can you just simply swap and the battery and BMU to achieve this?

If I remember correctly, someone else on the forum tried to do this, but I can't find the post..
Are you considering parting out the car?

My 2011 peugeot ion is still for sale, but just failed MOT on corrosion on rear brake pipes.
I would like to get this fixed before I sell it but I read that for the whole brake pipe to be replaced, the battery needs to be removed?

https://www.speakev.com/threads/im...pes-corrode-due-to-a-lack-of-underseal.70793/

How is the corrosion on your car?

Re corrosion, not great to my untrained eye. Noticed a fair bit around the opening in the boot (that allows access to the high voltage components) for example. There were advisories on the last MOT for rust (and wear) on suspension arm, and track rod end, ball joint dust covers and brake pipe corrosion.

EDIT - missed the part out aspect. Its not off the table to sell bits individually, but I think I'd prefer to shift the whole thing, my storage options are limited.

Cheers.

 

[WhyMiev]

Any speculation as to what the battery and or car might be worth would be quite welcome.

As it stands, in the absence of any additional interest I think i'll aim to proceed with the hybrid board replacement for p1a15 for now.

Cheers!

 

[Lez]

Morning,
Is this car still for sale as spares or repair?

If it is please contact me with a price, as I am looking for one for.

Thank you
Lez

 

[Victorypeugeotion]

Hi, i am genuinely interested in your car spare or repair.
My peugeot ion is got some problems too and ill be happy to have yours too, it might help me.
Thanks for your quick reply.
Kind regards,
Victor

 

[WhyMiev]

Hi Victor,

I've since put a bit of time into repairing the electrical and a few minor mechanical issues. Its got an MOT retest in just over a week. Fingers crossed it goes ok and then i'll drive it for as long as it'll let me, but if not, you may get a message!

Many thanks for the interest.

 

[WhyMiev]

Update: It just passed the MOT retest, so its back on the road for now.

Regarding the brake pipe discussion, they really were thin in places and needed replacing, they've been rerouted down the side of the battery to avoid dropping it (a great suggestion from within the facebook group).

Cheers for now

 

[Gary12345]

What repair did you use for the MCU, was it a proper repair or the dangerous resistor bodge?

 

[stoatwblr]

What is for certain however is that a 2011 BMS needs an upgrade to make use of the different LEV50N chemistry, check if there is any mention in the paperwork.

LEV50 firmware is more conservative than that for LEV50N (The newer cells have much higher current and temperature tolerances), so LEV50Ns would work safely in an older car (albeit not necessarily at maximum charge/discharge rates)

It's the other way around that's dangerous and could possibly result in pack thermal runaway

 

[colonellh]

Morning,
Is this car still for sale as spares or repair?

If it is please contact me with a price, as I am looking for one for.

Thank you
Lez

I have a 2012 iMiev with a 2 year old battery that I want to sell. About a month ago I went to drive it and got about 6 blocks when it slowed to a crawl and lights came on. I took it to Mitsubishi (MISTAKE) and they tell me it's the drive battery that has a "leak"??? and needs replaced at $13,000 and they won't cover it! I cannot believe that is correct, but I'm between two cities Springfield and KC, Missouri with each having ONE repairman. The battery shows a full charge and I think it has to be a resistor or whatever, besides the main battery, but I have NO options for someone knowledgeable to work on it. Interested?