The Troubleshooting and Repair for On-board Charger (OBC) Thread

[Jokerrevda]

Помимо фавельной пластины, из строя вышли несколько конденсаторов, которые стояли на другой плате. Их заменил на такие же.
У нас нету свалки машин. И запчасти продают только на разборках. И некоторые продавцы завышают цену на товар.

Google Translate -
In addition to the waffle plate, several capacitors that were on another board failed. They were replaced with the same ones.
We don't have a car dump. And spare parts are sold only at disassembly. And some sellers inflate the price of the goods.

 

[Jokerrevda]

Ещё такой вопрос , вы написали транзисторы, не могли бы вы написать марку и модель транзисторов? Так как я в этом плохо понимаю. На счёт эпоксидной смолы, сегодня буду пробовать одну смывку, если поможет покажу результат.

Google Translate -
Another question, you wrote the transistors, could you write the make and model of the transistors? Because I don't understand it very well. At the expense of epoxy, today I will try one wash, if it helps I will show the result.

 

[kiev]

Unfortunately we don't know the part number for the transistors in the epoxy; the few that have been uncovered were found to have been etched to remove the marking. But if you can expose the part down to the green board then we could probably find a replacement part that fits the solder pattern.

 

[coulomb]

Помимо фавельной пластины, из строя вышли несколько конденсаторов, которые стояли на другой плате. Их заменил на такие же.
У нас нету свалки машин. И запчасти продают только на разборках. И некоторые продавцы завышают цену на товар.

Google translation (two posts):

In addition to the [ waffle ] plate, several capacitors that were on another board failed. They were replaced with [ similar ] ones.
We don't have a car dump. And spare parts are sold only at disassembly. And some sellers inflate the price of the goods.


Another question, you wrote the transistors, could you write the make and model of the transistors? Because I don't understand it very well. At the expense of epoxy, today I will try one wash, if it helps I will show the result.

 

[Mucker]

Why do you suspect the diode? If it were shorted then the reading would not show 60 Ohms; if it were open it would show the 60 Ohms, then it would not prevent the relay from operation, but it would lack the freewheeling diode protection when commanded to OFF.

To test the relay you must put +5V at the end with the "bar" line, and return on the opposite end; this is in the blocking direction for a diode, it should not conduct thru the diode. See the picture in post #1 of this thread.
[/quote]

Hey Kenny,

I reversed the lines to test the relay and then the diode smoked a little bit and became hot.

I tested the OBC now without changeing or checking the Diode after replacing the 4,7 ohms resistor and it was not working.
The fan starts for short, the LEDs in the AC-cable are going to charge and after a few seconds the are green for finished again.
The relay doesn't close and there are no OBD-faultcodes left now.

So I would test D301 in the Future.

But does anyone has another Idea, why it is not working?

And Kenny would you like to try a paid try to repair this, if I send this to you.
Because now I have no Idea left, except the diode.
And I think your chances are much better than mine.

Or does someone has an OBC plate or a whole OBC to buy.

 

[JohnnySK]

Hi frends.
I have simmilar problem with charging with OBC but I checked everything desribed..
OBD2 says U1111 and U1116
I checked all plates of charger and everything looks good. I tested connect AC and relays at front swich on cooling and everyting as normal..
1. Relay at front switch
2. Display start to show battery status
3. Fan for battery cooling spinning
4. AC goes to RC filter relay is switched
5. AC is on board of AC charger..
6. DC 345V at pins from charger to next box
7. High voltage fuse is ok, and voltage is there.
8. Charging of 12V battery starts ...14.4V
aaand Orange car sign with (!) appear on display and all relays drops and charging not start..

What I should to check next ? I don't know what now..

Thank you for any help..

 

[kiev]

...
I reversed the lines to test the relay and then the diode smoked a little bit and became hot.

Oh i'm sorry to hear, that's not good.
i wish that you would have mentioned this before, and then i would have recommended to replace the diode.

Now i suspect that both the diode and the relay are damaged. And both should be replaced before doing any testing.

I tested the OBC now without changeing or checking the Diode after replacing the 4,7 ohms resistor and it was not working.
The fan starts for short, the LEDs in the AC-cable are going to charge and after a few seconds the are green for finished again.
The relay doesn't close and there are no OBD-faultcodes left now.

This is how the OBC acts when the relay does not close and let the AC flow into the waffle plate, or if the AC monitoring circuit is not reporting back from the bottom board to the upper control board.

i think you could replace the diode, or take the board to a tv/cell phone/electronics repair shop and let them do it. If possible it would be good if you could then properly connect the leads to test the relay. If the relay works good, then with a new diode i would expect you could charge successfully.

 

[kiev]

Hi frends.
I have simmilar problem with charging with OBC but I checked everything desribed..
OBD2 says U1111 and U1116
I checked all plates of charger and everything looks good. I tested connect AC and relays at front swich on cooling and everyting as normal..
1. Relay at front switch
2. Display start to show battery status
3. Fan for battery cooling spinning
4. AC goes to RC filter relay is switched
5. AC is on board of AC charger..
6. DC 345V at pins from charger to next box
7. High voltage fuse is ok, and voltage is there.
8. Charging of 12V battery starts ...14.4V
aaand Orange car sign with (!) appear on display and all relays drops and charging not start..

What I should to check next ? I don't know what now..

Those DTCs will prevent charging.

What is the age and condition of your 12V battery?

If it is old, weak or worn out, then it could be causing CAN buss errors that you are seeing on the DTCs.

If the CAN buss is not working properly, then lack of communication between the OBC and the EV-ECU will prevent charging.

Your measurements seem to indicate that the OBC is okay, which is a good thing. Fix the CAN errors and all should be good.

Also Inspect the CAN lines for insect or rodent damage also, under the rear seat and back to the OBC, etc.

 

[JohnnySK]

Those DTCs will prevent charging.

What is the age and condition of your 12V battery?

If it is old, weak or worn out, then it could be causing CAN buss errors that you are seeing on the DTCs.

If the CAN buss is not working properly, then lack of communication between the OBC and the EV-ECU will prevent charging.

Your measurements seem to indicate that the OBC is okay, which is a good thing. Fix the CAN errors and all should be good.

Also Inspect the CAN lines for insect or rodent damage also, under the rear seat and back to the OBC, etc.

I changed 12V battery 2months ago.
I have OBDlink LX only.. It is enough for remove errors ? (Can you recommend some app, please ?)
Already checked cables around OBC , between OBC and rear bumper too.. All on place, without demage.. connectors maximaly pushed together..
I will check cables under rear seat tomorow.. thanks for suggestion.
And I will do one more measurement.. Disconnect of high-voltage cable from OBC to Inverter .. and I will check what will happend.. if I still will have 345VDC on pins from OBC etc. Because I measured it with all cables connected, directly on board.

 

[kiev]

i'm not sure removing the HV cables and trying to charge would be a good idea. i could never recommend someone to try that. What would it prove, how would it help determine the problem?

The OBC won't turn ON without the HV battery connected. The control board monitors the voltage and current, and i don't believe it would activate charging with the "load" missing. And if it did, what would that prove versus the risk of damaging something.

If you don't have a DTC for the OBC, then it could be due to the defective CAN signal, which could be masking the HV error (!) that is showing on the dash.

A better test would be to check the diode drops in the waffle plate, specifically the lower right corner H-bridges. The AC rectifier and PFC seems to be working from your measurements, but possibly the transistors in the waffle plate are damaged and no switching to the transformers is taking place, just a possible cause.

i don't know if any of the apps can clear error codes; i use an i909 from iCarsoft but it is older and there may be newer and better versions, some maybe with phone apps, e.g. Launch seems to make the i909 and they have many different models.

i bought 4 new batteries during the pandemic and they were all crap. They read full voltage but had no capacity and were somewhat sulfated and needed long slow charging to restore. So just because it's new doesn't mean it is good. Give it a good charge and try again to see if the errors go away. The CAN errors will usually clear on their own given a strong 12V battery. If the new battery has set for 2 months without charging then it has sulfated and lost capacity.

 

[JohnnySK]

unfortunately, 12V battery was on charger few hours and not helped. I'm checking cables now..
I did read about problem with OBC only when capacitor was little bit over required value and car won't start charging.. so maybe next step will be change of big black capacitors on bottom OBC board (one of them have blowed cover..maybe 1-2mm)

 

[kiev]

Does your car Start and go to READY mode? What is the open circuit (resting) voltage of your 12V battery?

What is the history of this car? Has it been in a wreck or non-operational for an extended time?
The DTC codes for the CAN buss indicate
U1111 missing ETACS-ECU signal (this is a relay/fuse box located under the dash on drivers side)

U1116: i could not find, but there are codes U116x that relate to missing CAN associated with the EV-ECU (under the rear seat)

It appears that you have CAN buss issues not really associated with the OBC but which are affecting operation of the OBC.

Items you can check to verify the OBC,

Measure the diode drop voltages of the waffle plate. See page 1 for a link to a diagram and expected voltages.

Inspect the control board for damaged parts, check the little fuse on the control board, check the low voltage power supply voltages of the control board at the electrolytic capacitors. Should be a link on page 1 for these also.

 

[Jokerrevda]

Здравствуйте, по тихоньку убираю компаунд с платы, появились некоторые данные на элементах

 

[Jokerrevda]

https://wampi.ru/image/RjhYAQk
На одном из деталей на фавельной плате.

 

[kiev]

translated quotes from joker

Hello, I'm slowly removing the compound from the board, some data appeared on the elements
and
On one of the details on the favela board.

That is beautiful--Great work to dissolve the epoxy and reveal the part number, IR part number GS30B60K. It is a 30A 600V n-channel IGBT, insulated gate bipolar transistor in D2Pak package.
datasheet: https://www.infineon.com/dgdl/irgs30b60kpbf.pdf?fileId=5546d462533600a40153565aa8cd24ba

Would you care to share what chemicals are used to do this magic?

 

[Mucker]

Hey Kenny,

Thank you so much for the best support!
You do a great Job.

I have the Android App "Car Scanner" for the DTC-faultcodes. I'm not sure, if I have the pro Version for a few euros to delete the DTC codes.
You need to set Mitsubishi I Miev (not necessary, if you have Citroen or Peugeot) in the connection profile and then you should be able to read out the codes with a bluetooth (the cheap ones are not working)-or w-lan-OBD2 adapter.
I use the ELM327.

I don't get, with what reason the relay should be damaged, if I reverse the Pins when testing D301.

And can I use a bigger Diode for the crashed one or do I need to order this exactly?
And do you know, which one it is?

I link would be great.

 

[kiev]

The relay is old and may be weak or have already been damaged, frosted over contacts, etc and this may have caused the initial fault of the 4.7 ceramic resistor.

Any diode of about the same footprint would likely work. The circuit should work even without the diode, but then you are for sure asking for trouble with damage to the relay (punch-thru winding insulation) or the transistor on the control board (arcing flash over).

 

[JohnnySK]

Does your car Start and go to READY mode? What is the open circuit (resting) voltage of your 12V battery?

What is the history of this car? Has it been in a wreck or non-operational for an extended time?
The DTC codes for the CAN buss indicate
U1111 missing ETACS-ECU signal (this is a relay/fuse box located under the dash on drivers side)

U1116: i could not find, but there are codes U116x that relate to missing CAN associated with the EV-ECU (under the rear seat)

It appears that you have CAN buss issues not really associated with the OBC but which are affecting operation of the OBC.

Items you can check to verify the OBC,

Measure the diode drop voltages of the waffle plate. See page 1 for a link to a diagram and expected voltages.

Inspect the control board for damaged parts, check the little fuse on the control board, check the low voltage power supply voltages of the control board at the electrolytic capacitors. Should be a link on page 1 for these also.

Thanks, I already checked all cables under rear seet and connectors around inverter and charger.. Nothing.
OK, I will research on page 1 and make measurements..

One friend with diagnosis was here and I have more errors:
B1476
B1477
P1A12
U111D
U1111
U1116

 

[kiev]

Does your car Start and go to READY mode?

What is the open circuit (resting) voltage of your 12V battery?

What is the history of this car?

Has it been in a wreck or non-operational for an extended time?
...

...
One friend with diagnosis was here and I have more errors:
B1476
B1477
P1A12
U111D
U1111
U1116

U111D is time-out of the OBC CAN buss
P1A12 is abnormal stop of the OBC

There are internal fault codes for the OBC but it takes the MUT tool in order to read them; however the FSM has this caution:

caution If there is any problem in the CAN bus lines, an incorrect diagnosis code may be set. Prior to this diagnosis, always diagnose the CAN bus lines.

i can't find any B1476 or B1477 or U1116 in the FSM; online search indicates those B-codes are for ICE engines..?

 

[JohnnySK]

i can't find any B1476 or B1477 or U1116 in the FSM; online search indicates those B-codes are for ICE engines..?

Hi,
I disconnected all cables and made detail inspection and found this
https://johnny.sk/IMG_20220626_164415.jpg

So, I will remove black matter and resolder new condensators.
What you think.. Will it be enough ? As I did read on forum.. maybe yes.. I hope..

I overlooked what to add around new condensators.. what is that black matter ? som special silicon ?