The Troubleshooting and Repair for On-board Charger (OBC) Thread

[zetafunction]

When turning on the power, FB looks like this:

And the output like this:

 

[kiev]

Interesting linear slope of the FB signal rising while waiting for something to happen. Coulomb is probably correct in that if gets no FB during the CS capacitor charge up time, then it latches off--after about 0.2 seconds.

The output signal is being driven at the ~75kHz PWM frequency, but the voltage looks to be limited by some sort of capacitive loading. The output typically going to 4V according to datasheet. The duty cycle is at the max of about 65%.

The output is going thru a 330 Ohm to the gate of the FET, which has a 100k to ground.

What does the output look like after you get the chip to start and run?

[edit] the FET datasheet indicates the cutoff voltage is about 2V, so it may not even be turning on the FET. rating is for 4.5V Gate to Source voltage. hmm? the rollover begins around 1.5V and it never reaches 2.3V--not turning ON.

 

[zetafunction]

That is the output pin, when it is running:

And thats the output directly after shorting pin 1 and 2 with a resistor:

When it is running it is definitely switching the FET.

 

[zetafunction]

Also here are some measurements between Drain and Source of the FET when turning on the power:

 

[kiev]

Those are some great scope captures, thanks for doing all the work to share those here.

For some reason at startup the Output of the regulator is not able to drive the voltage high enough to turn the FET ON. With a little jump start you are able to get it working, which seems to indicate that all the peripherals are okay, i.e. the TL431, the PC314, all the passives, the FET. To me this points to a semi-defective Flyback Regulator IC702; semi-defective because it seems to work after the jump start, but won't start on its own.

Is there anything external to the regulator that could cause this?

Examine the components and solder joints from the output to the FET, 330R, 100kR, solder connections at both ends.

Have you tried resoldering the pins of IC702.

[edit] add the capacitor C841 and the transformer T302, to the list of external components.

 

[zetafunction]

I have to thank you for your time and patience!

I think I desoldered all external components and tested them one by one at this time, including IC702 and I renewed the solder joints of T302. I also desoldered C841 and measured 150uF across all frequencies.

For further reference, desoldering C841 works best with hot air, but it is absolutely neccesary to cover up the area around with small copper plates to not melt the connector. And even then it is really hard to desolder, since there are a lot of copper traces around the cap. I also preheated the area to shorten the time high temperatures are applied.

I think I will order a new IC702 IC, are there any other things I should consider ordering?

 

[kiev]

Well i thought of some more external stuff to consider--the PFC chip and the connection to the waffle plate on the secondary side. Is there any possibility that one of the components down stream on the secondary power supply could affect the switching? i don't really think so but i want to throw it out there for consideration.

i think you said that you did the diode check on the waffle plate and it all rang good, so hopefully no issue there.

Here is a drawing for the flyback regulator circuit primary and secondary sides.

If i were to order parts for a repair, i would consider replacing all the actives in this circuit TL431, TLP127, NJM2369, and the TR310. Also possibly all the ceramic capacitors.

And the blue snubber caps--replace them with higher voltage rating caps.

 

[zetafunction]

I just ordered some parts and will update you as soon as they arrive. The NJM2369 is actually pretty hard to buy and the delivery time is about 14 days.

The waffle plate measured out fine. Also after removing the plate the current draw stayed exactly the same, so I do not think that the plate is involved in this issue at all.

Thank you for your awesome drawing, I did a drawing of this circuit myself but yours looks so much better!

 

[coulomb]

Interesting linear slope of the FB signal rising while waiting for something to happen.

Looks like the op-amp is open drain with a current source as the pull-up. Constant current into a capacitor gives constant dV/dt.

That gives some hope that pulling pin 2 low is at least anticipated, if not designed for.

 

[bezzeb]

Good day
Please help me, my car not charging
No 14v on the battery, the yellow car icon is on and there is no icon "READY"
After checking Lexia I got errors
Charger
06 AC input voltage abnormal
ev-cu
u1113
P1AF4
U1900
U1901
P0560
P0562

After opening the charge, I saw an exploded large black capacitor and two small ones with a crack
Fuses in charge and MCU are normal
Resistors checked and readings are normal 10Ohm
The relay works well too (10-0 Ohm)

3 capacitors have been replaced, but the error persists
What could be the problem?

 

[kiev]

Howdy bezzeb,

First welcome and sorry to hear of your problems.

Have you checked the voltage of the 12V auxillary battery--is it a fresh battery or is it old, weak or worn out. If it is not charging up to 14.4 during charging of the pack, then the fuse inside the MCU is likely blown, especially if the 2 small blue capacitors were cracked.

Can you charge up or replace the 12V aux battery to ensure you have a strong one.

Are those the DTC errors from before the capacitors changed, or after?

Do you have a meter that can measure diode voltage drop?

do you have a picture showing the entire bottom board?

how did you solder in the black capacitor--did you remove the board from the box and remove the waffle plate, etc.

We need to know all the details about what you did and measured in the course of your repair effort, if possible.

 

[bezzeb]

Howdy bezzeb,

First welcome and sorry to hear of your problems.

Have you checked the voltage of the 12V auxillary battery--is it a fresh battery or is it old, weak or worn out. If it is not charging up to 14.4 during charging of the pack, then the fuse inside the MCU is likely blown, especially if the 2 small blue capacitors were cracked.

Can you charge up or replace the 12V aux battery to ensure you have a strong one.

Are those the DTC errors from before the capacitors changed, or after?

Do you have a meter that can measure diode voltage drop?

do you have a picture showing the entire bottom board?

how did you solder in the black capacitor--did you remove the board from the box and remove the waffle plate, etc.

We need to know all the details about what you did and measured in the course of your repair effort, if possible.

hello
thank you very much for your reply

Old battery, but I connected a new, big and more powerful one with a cable
and now I constantly have 12.5v

fuse in the MCU is working


before when the battery was discharged to 10,8v

now there are only this mistakes

charger
06
evcu
u1113
P1B32
P1B2D

Yes

I carefully left the leads from the old capacitors and soldered to them
without pulling out waffle plate

102R 2KV
MKP X2 310v 2.2mF

 

[kiev]

Do you have a hand held multimeter that has the diode check function? If so then you should check the diode drops of the waffle plate junctions to make sure that there is no failure internally. There is a great diagram in post#2 of this thread, look at step 3. under Schematics for the better diagram, and 3.1 for the voltage drops.

The 06 OBC internal code indicates it is not receiving the input AC voltage for some reason. Ring out the harness (check continuity) from the charging port to the OBC top board and thru any EMI filter box on top if yours has one. Check the inline fuses and surge arrester for continuity. Check the diode drop voltages for the input rectifier on the L and N terminals of the waffle plate.

If you are very very careful then it is possible to solder some long leads to the L and N solder junctions of the waffle plate and monitor this with a meter during the startup of plugging in to charge to verify that voltage is making it to the waffle plate. Did i mention that you must be very careful if you attempt this?

P1B2D indicates there is a VIN mismatch. Has any ECUs MCU, etc been changed out with another vehicle? This will prevent the driving of the car or going to READY, but usually shouldn't prevent charging.

P1B32 is related, it is timeout of the VIN check; the VIN is mismatched and it continued to check several times with no luck until it reached the time limit.

The U codes are related to errors on the CAN buss and will likely go away when the other codes are fixed.

 

[bezzeb]

Do you have a hand held multimeter that has the diode check function? If so then you should check the diode drops of the waffle plate junctions to make sure that there is no failure internally. There is a great diagram in post#2 of this thread, look at step 3. under Schematics for the better diagram, and 3.1 for the voltage drops.

The 06 OBC internal code indicates it is not receiving the input AC voltage for some reason. Ring out the harness (check continuity) from the charging port to the OBC top board and thru any EMI filter box on top if yours has one. Check the inline fuses and surge arrester for continuity. Check the diode drop voltages for the input rectifier on the L and N terminals of the waffle plate.

If you are very very careful then it is possible to solder some long leads to the L and N solder junctions of the waffle plate and monitor this with a meter during the startup of plugging in to charge to verify that voltage is making it to the waffle plate. Did i mention that you must be very careful if you attempt this?

P1B2D indicates there is a VIN mismatch. Has any ECUs MCU, etc been changed out with another vehicle? This will prevent the driving of the car or going to READY, but usually shouldn't prevent charging.

P1B32 is related, it is timeout of the VIN check; the VIN is mismatched and it continued to check several times with no luck until it reached the time limit.

The U codes are related to errors on the CAN buss and will likely go away when the other codes are fixed.

sorry for not answering for a long time
The charge is working and I am very happy.
Thank you very much for your help

but charging still does not give 14 volts
probably due to P1B2D error
this error appeared after service,who tried to fix the charging

Lexia shows the correct VIN number on the computer
Tried changing to the correct number, but it didn't solve the problem

Can I contact you with a personal message regarding one more question?

 

[kiev]

[edit] looking at the wrong code list

You can send me a PM, but it is better to post questions up here on the forum so everyone can benefit.

 

[bezzeb]

P1B2D means that there is a problem in the water pump relay--maybe the connector was left off or the relay pulled out during testing?

Water pump power supply relay excitation circuit, open circuit/short to earth.

You can send me a PM, but it is better to post questions up here on the forum so everyone can benefit.

Lexia program written that VIN number MCU does not match ECU
But in the program only the VIN number ECU can be changed

off topic question
I have a battery from a imiev 2014
And I would like to check (can) the voltage of the modules
I saw in some topic you found the decryption formula (BV=(b4*256+b5)/100 )
but recalculating the values according to this formula, I do not get real values

 

[kiev]

The MCU does have a VIN programmed on an eeprom chip located in the lower plenum. See the P1A15 Error thread for details of how to remove and reprogram the VIN for the MCU.
http://myimiev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=4225

i would recommend to NOT change the Main VIN that resides in the EV-ECU; that could be a fatal change that might permanently lock the car. i think Simon is the only person who has the experience and knowledge of what features are available with the Lexia.

P1B2D:
PROBABLE CAUSES
Chassis number not written
Malfunction of the EV-ECU
Malfunction of the EMCU
Malfunction of CAN bus line

What is the history of repairs for this car--what items have been swapped out, repaired or replaced? It sounds like you have multiple issues.

OBC: Does the car charge the Pack Okay?

DCDC: Does it charge the 12V aux battery?

MCU: Does it go to READY and run and drive Okay?

When did the P1B2D appear? You didn't list it in your original post.

What are the active DTCs right now that is preventing operation of any of the above? Clear them all and see what comes back.

2014 Note: i don't know if the 2012 and 2014 use the same CAN IDs; trying searching the forum for posts by owners of the "2014 and Canion".

 

[bezzeb]

The MCU does have a VIN programmed on an eeprom chip located in the lower plenum. See the P1A15 Error thread for details of how to remove and reprogram the VIN for the MCU.
http://myimiev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=4225

i would recommend to NOT change the Main VIN that resides in the EV-ECU; that could be a fatal change that might permanently lock the car. i think Simon is the only person who has the experience and knowledge of what features are available with the Lexia

What is the history of repairs for this car--what items have been swapped out, repaired or replaced? It sounds like you have multiple issues.

OBC: Does the car charge the Pack Okay?

DCDC: Does it charge the 12V aux battery?

MCU: Does it go to READY and run and drive Okay?

When did the P1B2D appear? You didn't list it in your original post.

What are the active DTCs right now that is preventing operation of any of the above? Clear them all and see what comes back.

2014 Note: i don't know if the 2012 and 2014 use the same CAN IDs; trying searching the forum for posts by owners of the "2014 and Canion".

unfortunately they didn’t give me information. what they did to repair the charging in the company where I ordered the repair

OBC: Yes
DCDC: NO (14 volts appears after switching on READY ?)
MCU: NO

Only this
charger
06
evcu
u1113
P1B32
P1B2D

 

[kiev]

OBC: Does the car charge the Pack Okay?

DCDC: Does it charge the 12V aux battery?

MCU: Does it go to READY and run and drive Okay?

OBC: Yes
DCDC: NO (14 volts appears after switching on READY ?)
MCU: NO


What are the active DTCs right now that is preventing operation of any of the above? Clear them all and see what comes back.
Only this
OBC chargger
06

evcu
u1113
P1B32
P1B2D

So the 14V appears when in READY? It normally should, But you can't get to READY because the MCU is locked up.

Maybe the 06 code for the OBC is old and the Lexia can't clear it? It would seem that this code is not an issue if indeed the pack can charge when plugged in to EVSE.

That leaves a generic CAN BUSS error code and the two VIN related codes. Was the MCU recently swapped out by someone? How long has this code showed up--the car won't run or go to READY with a mismatch between the VIN of the car (EV-ECU) and the number stored in the MCU.

Do you have a voltmeter? What is the aux battery voltage at rest? What is it when you turn the key to ON?

 

[bezzeb]

OBC: Does the car charge the Pack Okay?

DCDC: Does it charge the 12V aux battery?

MCU: Does it go to READY and run and drive Okay?

OBC: Yes
DCDC: NO (14 volts appears after switching on READY ?)
MCU: NO


What are the active DTCs right now that is preventing operation of any of the above? Clear them all and see what comes back.
Only this
OBC chargger
06

evcu
u1113
P1B32
P1B2D

So the 14V appears when in READY? It normally should, But you can't get to READY because the MCU is locked up.

Maybe the 06 code for the OBC is old and the Lexia can't clear it? It would seem that this code is not an issue if indeed the pack can charge when plugged in to EVSE.

That leaves a generic CAN BUSS error code and the two VIN related codes. Was the MCU recently swapped out by someone? How long has this code showed up--the car won't run or go to READY with a mismatch between the VIN of the car (EV-ECU) and the number stored in the MCU.

Do you have a voltmeter? What is the aux battery voltage at rest? What is it when you turn the key to ON?

yes, most likely error 06 is old

Perhaps during the repair of the charging, they replaced the mcu(((
2 weeks

yes voltmeter,ampermeter and oscilloscope

in the charger 391v
contactors turn on and turn off after a minute with error