[SOLVED] Critical problem - battery not charging - please help! (with reward)

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Having the DTCs is the only way to go. Now you can find the problem.

First, disconnect the radio connector that you populated using the OEM wires. you may have wired it up incorrectly and blown a fuse. Take that modification out of play while searching for why you have no power.

Did you check all the fusible links at the positive battery terminal? FL25 is an 80 Amp fusible link that supplies many of the smaller fused circuits including the ETACS; your picture only showed the 4 smaller links.

See Block 5 of the Power distribution diagram:
with a pdf page here:

Did you go thru all the steps of the troubleshooting for B1765? Did you pull both fuses and measure for continuity with a meter? Did you pull the connectors on the ETACS and inspect the contact terminals, looking for burn marks or dirty contacts, etc?

You will need to use a voltmeter to measure if there is voltage at the fuses, 26 should be hot all the time and 25 only has voltage when the key switch is turned to ACC/ON. What voltage do you measure when doing this test?
Dear @Kiev , @GregFordyce , @Don

I really don't know how to thank you all. You have all made this forum extremely valuable for me. I will say it again, considering that you have spent your valuable time helping me get things straight.

I really really appericiate you all with your competence and great guidance - and please tell me if I somehow can simbolically buy you a coffee to in practice show my appericiation.

Now thats out of the way - here is an update. Today morning, I began sending e-mails to junkyards to try and get a replacement ECU thinking that it would solve the issues. After a bit of searching in this forum, I found that its not a sulution considering that it needs to be programmed (by dealership) in order to work with other systems. I scratched my head.

Afterwards, I began sending e-mails to known EV repair centers to check prices and such - shortly said, the prices were mind boggling.

So I went back to what @GregFordyce said about starting with the ECU fuse, and then to what @Kiev said about measuring the voltage with a multimeter. I decided to give it the absolutely last try.

The blue fuse did not read anything. But then suddenly it did. Then the voltage was at 0 again. This was weird, my response was for some reason to put some force on the probe, and there it was - constant 12v voltage. Clearly visible, because at this point my head was being shined on by the room lamp!!!

I did remember that I had a weird feeling about these two previously. This is because I bought mini-fuses that was a bit longer than the OEM. It made the whole yellow thing kinda weak - remember that the OEMS was there at this point.

I replaced them with the longer fuses and pressed with my thumb. It clicked, after the aux battery was connected again, the room light and locking system and everything started working as it should!
Plugged in the EVSEE charger - and to my surprise - THE FAN STARTED GOING! And finally, the car charges again.

I took this a step further, and installed the aftermarket radio as well (been working for many many hours today). I was now comfortable with the radio install considering all the information you all have given me (I piggybacked the windshield wiper 20A fuse, thats not constant - but activated by ignition). Lastly, I bolted back the front seats, and cleared the SRS codes. No more airbag lamps.

We went from this

To the ULTIMATE goal, to install an aftermarket radio that had bluetooth support

We finally made it - and I can't thank you all enough for your help. I have learnt enormously much. I had no experience with multimeters, reading DTC's, how modules work together through the CAN system, how relays work internally and how to test them - and much more.
Now however, I feel like everything is possible - with patience, guidance and a bit of diagnostic tool skills.

The diagnostic tool set me back $270 - however, I will absolutely keep it for future challenges.

Again, thank you all for superb help - I will keep being active on this forum, and will probably cross roads with you again. :)

This discussion can now be set at SOLVED - finally!
Good job amar--way to go on getting that bad boy fixed.

Was the original fuse blown, and was the replacement too long or too short to work correctly? Do you think that the socket for the fuse was damaged, or the fuse was not installed properly?

Go back to post #1 and you can edit the title to add the word "[Solved]" if you care to help the next guy.
Thank you both @GregFordyce , @Kiev
kiev said:
Good job amar--way to go on getting that bad boy fixed.

Was the original fuse blown, and was the replacement too long or too short to work correctly? Do you think that the socket for the fuse was damaged, or the fuse was not installed properly?

Go back to post #1 and you can edit the title to add the word "[Solved]" if you care to help the next guy.
The fuses not blown.
However, I have earlier swapped the fuses from the OEM to some mini fuses that looked kinda alike BUT longer.
After swapping them back the socket for the fuse turned out to be too loose to get a good connection. The yellow block holding the fuses likely got a beating before all these problems happened.
The solution was to replace the OEMs with the mini fuses (that's longer). After putting decent force when installing them today, I heard a good click, and now everything seems to work just fine (multimeter showed constant voltage that did not cut off even though I tried to press in different places with the probe) (to imitate a bump or something).

I am aware that I should've started off with buying identical fuses like the OEMs, and that the socket and the fuse likely arent good friends at the moment. But I think it should be just fine, as I heard a good click. In addition, the OEMs wont fit good anymore because of the beating I gave - if I one day want to, I probably need to check the socket really good and also replace the yellow frame (as it has some marks of forcing fuses in/not serving its purpose)

Found a picture so its better to understand what I mean by the OEM fuses and the mini-fuses I bought.
The OEM fuse type is at the left, while the ones that are currently installed are the furthest to the right.

For anyone that are going to replace fuses - please source fuses that look identical to the OEM's, and don't do what I did!
Title is now updated to [solved]