"P1AE7 ASC system fail"

[porciniman]

My 2016 iMiEv is giving me a diagnostic code of "P1AE7 ASC system fail" I only have the iCarsoft multi system scanner i909.
What happens is, that bright yellow icon light with the exclamation point comes on, along with a few other lights on the dash after about 5-6 miles of 50mph highway driving, or about 10 miles of driving around town at 25mph. What's odd? I can shut the car off, remove the key 'til all the lights go off, restart the car and drive it another 10 miles before the lights come back on. Now, even with the lights on, the car drives normally, with the battery draining normally, the regen, steering and brakes working fine. I may get the occasional stability lights flash and the car slows down, but that's about it. The car charges fine overnight at 8 amps, and I get a full charge with around 70 miles showing. This has been going on for a year, yet the car only has 6200 miles on it. My nearest Mits dealer is over 60 miles away. TOO FAR!! Anyone got any suggestions on what I could have a mechanic check? Thanks for your help.

 

[kiev]

Does the ASC-ECU show up in your scanner list of ECUs? Can you look at the data items for the ASC and/or any DTC codes in the ASC?

Any issue with the ASC sends a fault code to the EVECU which throws the P1AE7 code.

What is the age and condition of your 12 V starter battery--an old, weak or worn out 12V can cause a multitude of issues across many unrelated systems.

An intermittent is sometimes related to connector or wiring issues, check the ASC switch and all other connectors related to the ASC for corrosion, rodent damage, etc.

 

[porciniman]

The starter battery is new, like less than a year old.
I bought a cheap scanner, iCarsoft i909. The Mutt III was too expensive, and I probably wouldn't know how to use it. Heck, I don't even know if I'm using the scanner I have now correctly.
However, when using it the diagnostics do tell me:
Meter fault in communication with vehicle ECU
ABS/ASC/ASI/WSS C1505 steering angle censor
EV/ECU P1AE7 ASC system fail
OBC fault in communication with vehicle

Can I still drive the car without the ASC? Is it necessary to just do my city driving without any harm 'til I can get it fixed. By city driving, I mean about maybe 20 miles at 25-30 mph. No highway driving, just the around town stuff running various errands.

 

[kiev]

C1505 is the code for a fault of the steering angle sensor, data list item #16 in the ASC. You could monitor it in real time on the i909 as you turn the wheel and also at steering straight ahead (should be +/-5 at the zero position).

Measure the voltage of the 12V battery with no load (open circuit voltage), i would bet that it is not as strong as you think, especially if not driven or charged frequently. All of your faults could be related to a weak 12V.

Shouldn't be an issue to drive it, but you won't have traction and stability control in slippery road conditions.
Try pushing the button to turn it off, maybe the warning lights will go out?

 

[porciniman]

I'll try the steering monitoring in real time thing. The car showed me the lights on the same day I put a new battery in.
I've tried shutting off the stability control, took it out for a 5 mile highway drive, and warning lights still came on.
As far as driving in snowy, icy or slippery conditions, I use my all wheel drive Subaru for extra safety with those types of conditions.
Thanks for the response, it is appreciated.

 

[MickeyS70]

The car showed me the lights on the same day I put a new battery in

This confirms what kiev is suspecting: even though you bought a new aux battery, there is no telling how long it set on the shelf in the store. Did you charge it before installation?

 

[porciniman]

I keep it on a trickle charge, so it's always fully charged.

 

[MickeyS70]

.. too much of a coincidence that the fault only appeared after you changed the battery, you did right and charged it, but is it holding charge? Did you ever test it, i.e. measured the voltage on the terminals (first thing in the morning with ignition off, then key to next notch and turn on full lights and finally with car ready)? Make sure the battery connections are tight.

 

[porciniman]

I'm sorry if I lead you to believe the fault only happened after the new battery. The new battery was suggested to me when the fault 1st appeared and continued even after battery replacement. I'll try your idea and measure the voltage as you suggested. One thing I haven't tried is putting in my fully charged jumper battery box to connect to the battery while driving and see if the full charge from the jumper keeps the dash lights off. Merry Christmas.