OBC Swapping Gen1 to Gen 2

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Well-known member
May 3, 2015
The Heart o' Dixie
Got a PM from member Lviv about this subject:
Good evening. I see that you know a lot about these cars. I am changing the charger from Gen 1 to Gen 2. I would like to consult with you. If possible your contact number. Thank you very much in advance
Welcome to the forum Lviv.

We need to discuss here in the forum so that everyone can benefit.

Please post some pictures of your two OBC units and the MCU in your car, and the OBC to MCU wiring harnesses you have available.
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From what i recall when my OBC was swapped under warranty, Gen 2 has a coolant pipe that will rotate in the housing to allow connection for either the early 2012 or later 2014+ configurations.

In addition the High Voltage harness and connectors between the OBC and the MCU may be different between the two, depending upon which version of MCU is in your car.

My car has both OBC and MCU changed to the newer configurations (Gen2), done by Mitsubishi service.
Got a PM from member Lviv about this subject:

Welcome to the forum Lviv.

We need to discuss here in the forum so that everyone can benefit.

Please post some pictures of your two OBC units and the MCU in your car, and the OBC to MCU wiring harnesses you have available.


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This is photo old Gen1 on the car and Gen2 , l bought it on the scrap yard from the 2014 I-miev


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Question is - can i by myself change wiring connections and do you have an instruction for this deal
i think you could do the wiring yourself. The 2014 unit has a different connector holding the terminal lugs that connect inside the MCU from that of the 2012.

You will need to examine the connector ends of both harnesses to determine what can be re-used with your configuration and how to do it.

So if the HV Output wiring inside the 2014 OBC unit is intact, then you could just disassemble or cut off the MCU end connector and add lugs to the wire ends and connect to the correct polarity inside the MCU underneath the little access cover. If you can disassemble and use the lugs as is that is good; otherwise you will have to cut and add lugs.

Add some FIPG (form in place gasket) material around the MCU openings to seal them off; this is similar to RTV sealant with different composition, but RTV is fine too.

Add some flex tubing to protect the wires from chafing. They used orange split plastic tubing when built but color doesn't matter
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so then I don’t need any programming thing to do. Only fix it right and charging will start ?
Hi Lviv,
In addition on the Kiev's comments, just please be sure that your car and the other OBC come both from the same continent.
One time I got an OBC from the USA and it did not work on a EU car. I had to swop the upper control board too.
Let us know,
Is there a list of all the OBC Part Numbers identifying their applicability? I purchased three allegedly brand-new OBCs from a third party and all that works is the 12v dc-dc but there appears to be a 'failure to communicate' to handle the J1772 input.
I don’t know all this details. I just bought used charger from the service used electric cars . They told me about lots of successful done swipes gen1 to gen2 . My car and charger Gen2 from Norway . Lots of similar cars coming from that country to Ukraine . So i start to make connections and will give you a result of it
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i think the label with the word "ALL" means it is available to use in all markets, and can use whatever AC voltage is available, 100, 120, 240, and whatever phasing is available.

All AC input goes thru a rectifier stage to convert it to DC and then it is processed from there to create the HVDC for the pack.
Yes "ALL" sounds good. But I do not think it is linked to the AC voltage input range as all should accept 100-240V AC
But I have noted that on the OBCs there are at least these marks:
NAS probably means North American Standard and, if I rememeber well, they do not work on EU cars with OBCs with STD or ALL marks.
While STD should mean Standard (for Japan??)

Anyway please Lviv try to replace the OBC and good luck.
Let us know the otucome :)
Hi Coulomb,
I see, I will pay attention to the "13A" mark and if I have a chance I will check it and see if the current is fixed or can be changed.
Just to clarify as I am going to import a replacement obc from japan. (Tried to fix mine too many tears involved) if the lid top looks the same plugs will be the same and if it says “ALL” It will work? Does v110 mean anything Picture of mine for ref


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