Not Charging. Main Inverter Fuse blown

[coulomb]

You can check on working car - main (+) connects only after getting on condenser full battery voltage.

I'm sure @Kiev is quite aware of this. This test would settle the question of whether the capacitor voltage isn't getting high enough, and is therefore not getting powered, or if the main contactor is faulty, receiving power but not connecting the battery to capacitor due to possibly intermittent contact failure (now more permanent, it would seem). You seem to be overlooking the second possibility.

 

[Lic]

So procedure to connect battery to car is 1. Engage main (-) contactor and precharge contactor to charge condenser through precharge resistor. 2. checking if condenser get full battery voltage in exact time. 3. Engage main (+) contactor and provide battery energy to car. In my case car stops on step 2. So what is point to check main (+) contactor if my problem somewhere before engaging main (+) contactor? Am I missing something? Most likely I need to check main (-) contactor to see if it getting good 12v power.

 

[coulomb]

In my case car stops on step 2.

Well, if you know that definitely to be the case, great. But how can you tell? From the sound of the contactors? From the trouble code? I think it still could be reaching normal capacitor voltage, sending 12 V to the main positive contactor, and either the coil is open circuit, or the contacts are pitted and it doesn't make good contact, or some mechanical issue. In other words, it attempts step three, but it fails to achieve complete battery voltage across the capacitor.

My apologies if there is some obvious reason that you're so sure it's stopping at step 2 that I'm overlooking. Perhaps there is a different trouble code in this case.

 

[Lic]

I used diagnostic software and made video of what is going on after turning key to ready position. I left link for video here earlier. It shows when and which contactors engages, what voltages reaches condenser, when condenser charge timeout flag appear. Car will not engage main(+) contactor until condenser will get full battery voltage because if it will it will be spark between contacts in main contactor.

 

[coulomb]

I used diagnostic software and made video of what is going on after turning key to ready position. I left link for video here earlier.

Ok, that would do it! Sorry, I somehow missed the video links earlier.

It seemed to get to 338 V, which is only 12 V short of the battery voltage of 350 V, and is 97% of the way there. You won't get a lot better than that, it seems to me. But then it plummets to 70 V before the timeout and the main positive contactor never comes on. I note that the contactor status flags sometimes lag, e.g. there was over 200 V on the capacitor while the negative contactor was still listed as "off" (which is of course impossible). So perhaps the exact timing and sequence of events can't be totally trusted. But the fact that it did get to 338 V at one point, and was at 70 V on the next sample, suggests that something is draining the capacitor before the capacitor is declared charged.

I wonder how they prevent the DC-DC from using any charge (apart from charging its own capacitors), and whether that delay (from initial power-on to actively drawing power) could be too short. You might be able to test this theory by temporarily removing the combined DC-DC and OBC 20 A fuse; at least it would isolate the problem to either the DC-DC or OBC, or something else (e.g. motor controller, flashover, air conditioner, heater, one of the battery contactors).

BTW, what diagnostic software is that? (Pardon my ignorance there).

 

[Lic]

Lets continue in fresh topic which I opened about my problem.