Motor unit warning lamp; Shifter Issues

[Gencis]

While I was driving, it turned on electric motor unit warning light, RBS light and Turtle mode light. I returned home, found on this forum that the issue is wrong Parking position. I lubricated gear selection wire with WD40 next to rear axle and tightened the wire. Now gear all the time goes back to Parking position but I lost gear B.
It took several more trips and adjustments till RBS light and Turtle mode light finally disappeared. Now I drive as normally but still without gear B. The only problem left constantly glowing electric motor unit warning light. I drove more than hundred kilometers with it. And it still on. Sometimes it disappears for short period and turns on.
As there are no problems, and everything works, including regenerative braking, I would not pay attention. But this year car will have to pass government inspection and with this light on, I will not be able to pass it.
Any suggestions what I could do?
Would buying new gear shifter wire (not sure if it is possible to get it) solve the problem?

Car is MY2012.

 

[kiev]

You will need to use an OBDII scan tool or OBD dongle with a phone app to read out the diagnostic troubleshooting codes, DTC, to find out why the warning lamp is lit up. Once the issue is resolved the lamp will turn off.

 

[MickeyS70]

Looking at an older discussion, you had similar issues with the shifter a few years ago?

As ‘B’ position is not at the extremes and the wire adjustment is not done for each position individually, I doubt that a replacement of the wire will fix the issue.

It’s more likely caused by an issue with shift position switch itself?
https://myimiev.com/threads/repair-shift-position-switch-on-gearbox.4972/

For reference, a clip of a working car


Best to invest in an OBD dongle as per @kiev ’s suggestion
https://myimiev.com/threads/smartphone-tablet-apps-for-i-miev-c-zero-and-ion.4936/

 

[Gencis]

Thank you for the answers. I scanned the error codes using iCarsoft. I got these error codes:
P1A0A
P1A0B
P1A08
B1691

 

[MickeyS70]

Thank you for the answers. I scanned the error codes using iCarsoft. I got these error codes:
P1A0A
P1A0B
P1A08
B1691

See below:
http://mmc-manuals.ru/manuals/i-miev/online/Service_Manual/2013/54/html/M154920810005800ENG.HTM

B1691 is something you have reported before, didn’t seem to cause an issue though?

 

[Gencis]

To MickeyS70: thank you for the error code explanation.
B1691 did not get me any problems.

I will start with disassembly and alignment of the gear position switch. I hope I will have time to check it tomorrow.

Few years ago I had problems with P1A15 error and it was solved by soldering resistor to the board. And in the link I read one of the possible cause could be Malfunction of the EV-ECU. Could it be related?

 

[MickeyS70]

Few years ago I had problems with P1A15 error and it was solved by soldering resistor to the board. And in the link I read one of the possible cause could be Malfunction of the EV-ECU. Could it be related?

Don’t think so, the EV-ECU will set a DTC if the information from the shift position and inhibitor are different. There is a good chance that opening up the assembly, cleaning it thoroughly and adjusting the position will fix this.

 

[Gencis]

I still have problems with the gears.
I disassembled the shift sensor. cleaned it, greased with dielectric grease. Assembled everything back.
Then I made adjustment using 5mm drill bit for neutral position as instructed by the manual.
Now when I turn on, instead of P, on screen shows R. When I shift to D, screen shows - N, shifting to E, screen shows D.
Even if I switch back to P, and pull arm (next to the sensor) all the way to the rear, it still shows R.
Before last disassembly, when pulling the arm I was able to change gear to P and turn on the car.

Also if I go to N with gear shifter, I can easily slide in 5mm drill bit in the hole. So N position is ok.

Where could be the problem?

 

[michael8554]

In N, with the drill bit in place, can you still move the shift lever ?
In other words, is there slack in the system that needs adjusting out ?

 

[kiev]

greased with dielectric grease.

That is your problem, dielectric grease is not a conductor--it is an insulator used to prevent electrical conduction.

DE grease is used in vacuum systems and high voltage systems such as around the rubber boots on spark plugs, to keep moisture out and prevent electrical breakdown. But if you used it on electrical contact surfaces then you will have issues.

 

[Gencis]

I think I found the problem. The ring of the arm in the SPS has a crack (marked with red arrows in the photo), so when mounted, steel axle rotates but the gap in the ring increases and it does not move the full path. That is why gear does not appear where they have to be.
I tried to solder it using soldering iron but it cracked again.
So I need new one. Where in Japan you order this part?
I found this page:
https://www.nengun.com/oem/mitsubis...I4UV1C3lhezTlX0Q3npTxY-989qOyfGUPgWyTmmyfGVHW

But in their drawing it looks slightly different with cables and connector.
Will it fit mine?

 

[Gencis]

I was not able to get SPS in Europe, only newer SPS version. But it did not fit, starting from connector, grooves in the mounting hole, mounting position. So after few days of struggling, I managed to solder back to one piece the original I had. After calibration car started to work. Now gears can be changed easily without an effort. But I still sometimes need to pull gear lever more back to engage the correct gear. May be wire tensioning is not enough?
The dielectric grease works ok. According to the consistency it looks like original grease. If it would be conductor grease, all 4 contact points would be connected as the grease would transfer charge between them?
I want to thank you for your support and help.

 

[michael8554]

This one was wrong ?

http://www.autospares.eu/search.htm...h_results_by=final_price&chk_smode=on&smode=A

 

[Gencis]

I thought in the beginning that I will be able to use this one.