I'm buying a non-runner MIEV here in Japan!

[Rational]

You could still swap it, your original DTCs should be replaced with VIN mismatch errors if the original contoller board is also defective

Okay. Well in that case, I have a second MCU inbound still as I ordered two. I guess I could just swap that in as is, unopened and see what codes show up.

Car won't move though right if the chassis numbers don't match? So I'll have to reprogram it if so before it will move?

Man.. I hope my FULL CHIP arrives soon...

 

[MickeyS70]

Car won't move though right if the chassis numbers don't match? So I'll have to reprogram it if so before it will move?

Probably not, but see what happens.
In the meantime did you re-check the DTCs; have they changed after replacing (all?) IGBTs?

 

[Rational]

In the meantime did you re-check the DTCs; have they changed after replacing (all?) IGBTs?

Yes, here above is what I got during the first scan after replacing the MCU.



Then after clearing the codes and trying to move the car in reverse and drive.



Then this is the result after clearing the codes again. But it still throws an engine exclamation point light and the P1A2A errors again.

Then for comparison below is what I got on my very first code scan with car scanner back on 27 Sept, 2024 before I touched anything on the car:


Page 2:

 

[Rational]

What do you mean by ‘good’?


OBD data has already determined that it’s a 88 cell 16kWh battery, what would be interesting to know is when it was built.

I gather you couldn’t find the label mentioned in post #14 but based on indicated range and current capacity it could well be the original pack, manufactured in 2010/11 with 1st gen LEV50 cells.

Oh, I hadn't noticed prior screenshots had said it was 16kWh. I only noticed the 88 cells up until today.

What was leading me to believe it was only a 10 kWh battery was the OBDZero page showing it as only 10.5 here:



Is this a default I need to change or something for it to show accurately in OBDZero?

 

[MickeyS70]

If you look at the schematic below you will see that there are actually 6 IGBTs / rectifier diodes. They seem to be physically arranged in 3 blocks inside the inverter.

What it also shows is that the output is directly connected to the motor unit, therefore if you disconnect G-07/G08/G09 (beware of potential HV)
and get the same DTCs when trying to move, the problem is most likely inverter related.

But if P1A2A is replaced with something else, suspect a faulty motor..

Is this a default I need to change or something for it to show accurately in OBDZero?

No need, this is accurate, it shows current max capacity based on SoH

 

[Rational]

If you look at the schematic below you will see that there are actually 6 IGBTs / rectifier diodes. They seem to be physically arranged in 3 blocks inside the inverter.

What it also shows is that the output is directly connected to the motor unit, therefore if you disconnect G-07/G08/G09 (beware of potential HV)
and get the same DTCs when trying to move, the problem is most likely inverter related.

But if P1A2A is replaced with something else, suspect a faulty motor..
View attachment 1219


No need, this is accurate, it shows current max capacity based on SoH

Funny you should mention this page. I was just looking at it in the online manual.

But I wasn't realizing I could disconnect the three motor wires and see if the codes remain or not.

So that's a good test then if so.

I could disconnect the main fuse and make sure there's no voltage inside, then disconnect those three motor wires.

If the codes go away then the problem is with the motor/reduction gear?

Very concise way to be sure it sounds like. I'll try it. Thank you. I wasn't quite catching that when I read it 15 minutes ago on my own.

This is why I hang out with you guys.

 

[Rational]

One curious thing I found in Car Scanner under the all sensors page is that only two of the IGBT temperature sensors read full temp.

The other one reads a very low temp. Do you guys also see this when you run it on your cars?



IGBT 1 temperature reads -1.67 C.

Yet IGBT 2 temperature reads 29 C and

IGBT estimated temperature reads 29 C.




But hobdrive looks fine. So maybe no issue with the temp sensor after all on my car?