I'm buying a non-runner MIEV here in Japan!

[MickeyS70]

Okay. Perfect. I will study up and find out the exact part number of my MCU (oh, it's the MCU, not the ECU that's bad on my car?) and see if I can find one for sale. That should be the quickest method.

I'll also try a repair on this one so as to have a backup! And learn. And share the results. Thank you!

http://mmc-manuals.ru/manuals/i-miev/online/Service_Manual/2011/index_M1.htm

Section 54D (Electric Motor unit and main battery) should answer a lot of questions

 

[Rational]

Okay. I found the part number on the top of my MCU housing. PN: 9499A620.

I've found a few online for sale. We'll order one up here ASAP.

I'm hoping she just burned something out in the MCU and that there was no damage to the motor or reduction gear.

I guess I'll find out after I swap in the new MCU if it fails again and if so I'll probably order the motor/reduction gear set next if need be. Hopefully not.

Will also study up on how to program the chassis number into the MCU next using the Lexia 3 cable. Exciting times.

By the way, for the next guy struggling with the OBD2 dongle. The best way is to shut off the car and remove the dongle between each app change.

Even the reset button on the LX doesn't always ensure the app will connect.

Also, only Car Scanner would talk to the car. Hobdrive said it would connect and pass all tests but nothing would appear in the app. It just stayed on 'Initializing' forever.

Canion never connected successfully.

I bought the full version of Car Scanner as it's the only app that seems to work with my miev at this point.

Will be donating to you guys here on the 1st with a full year's subscription to pay you for all your help. It's been incredible.

 

[MickeyS70]

Hobdrive said it would connect and pass all tests but nothing would appear in the app. It just stayed on 'Initializing' forever.

What profile did you use under ECU?

Canion never connected successfully.

Strange?

You might as well try OBDZero, it was developed specifically for triplets and shows a wealth of useful information.

 

[Rational]

What profile did you use under ECU?

Strange?

You might as well try OBDZero, it was developed specifically for triplets and shows a wealth of useful information.

Oh, actually I forgot to mention, I did try OBDZero tonight again and it connected. Doesn't show much though, right? Just battery ah, etc.

I used the MIEV profile in car scanner. In hobdrive it only let's me choose Mitsubishi and then for model OBD-II. No specific models show up there. Is that normal?

Quick question, is MCU part number 9499A170 compatible with 9499A620? I found one of those very cheap and available sooner if so.

 

[Rational]

Just found this nice online ebook on the miev. Seen it before?

Would love to get this and the russian manual site available in an offline format for safekeeping. Know how?

https://anyflip.com/cqfwu/chfh

No info on if 499A170 is compatible with my model.

This page lists other (maybe all?) part numbers for the miev MCU:
https://ecu.eu/t/mitsubishi/high-voltage-hybrid-technology/motor-inverter-i-miev-7024

Part numbers

---

Mitsubishi 9499A620 MEIDENSHA MA20347642

Mitsubishi 9499A620 MEIDENSHA MA20341373

Mitsubishi 9499A620 MEIDENSHA MA20284736

Mitsubishi 9499A620 MEIDENSHA MA20347641

Mitsubishi 9499D980

Mitsubishi 9499D023

Mitsubishi 9499A170

 

[Rational]

Sounds like a mechanical failure in the reduction gear or motor. Drain the reduction gear oil and inspect. If you want to lower the pack charge just put it in ready and put the heater on, dont take the main battery out. May need a replacement motor.

Cheers

Thanks for your tip on how to lower the battery charge level by using the heater. I should have thought of that. Worked great. Down to around 63% now which I believe is a healthier level for it to sit at until I can get it driving again.

You know anything about MCUs? And if they're interchangeable between different model numbers?

 

[MickeyS70]

Oh, actually I forgot to mention, I did try OBDZero tonight again and it connected. Doesn't show much though, right? Just battery ah, etc.

It shows the info of all known PIDs and displays them in easy readable tabs, some essential for troubleshooting:

More info here (post #5) https://myimiev.com/threads/smartphone-tablet-apps-for-i-miev-c-zero-and-ion.4936/

It has also a nice feature where you can measure the actual battery capacity (SoH) during a charging session

In hobdrive it only let's me choose Mitsubishi and then for model OBD-II. No specific models show up there. Is that normal?

No, there should be a list of different models under ECU settings

More info here (post #4) https://myimiev.com/threads/smartphone-tablet-apps-for-i-miev-c-zero-and-ion.4936/

Quick question, is MCU part number 9499A170 compatible with 9499A620? I found one of those very cheap and available sooner if so.

Sorry, no idea

 

[kiev]

It seems that the 9499 prefix of the part number indicates that it is an electrical part for the mitsubishi EV, then the following letter and digits code refers to the ecu/device.

Example, i have an MCU with 9499B415.

i have seen many OBC units with various part numbers, also found this for BMU and EV-ECU , so it is strange how the numbers change.

we have never figured out the numbering scheme for the part numbers, only mits knows and has the master list.

 

[kiev]

For whatever reason, different society norms and customs, language, etc. i have never seen, heard or had interactions with Japan home-market car owners, on any EVs or ICE car forums--mitsubishi, nissan, toyota, suzuki, also bmw and tesla.

Don't know why that is, or if the diy approach to solving problems is just not a thing in Japan, or the language difference is a big barrier.

 

[Rational]

It seems that the 9499 prefix of the part number indicates that it is an electrical part for the mitsubishi EV, then the following letter and digits code refers to the ecu/device.

Example, i have an MCU with 9499B415.

i have seen many OBC units with various part numbers, also found this for BMU and EV-ECU , so it is strange how the numbers change.

we have never figured out the numbering scheme for the part numbers, only mits knows and has the master list.

Okay. Thanks for that. So do you think I'm safe to order the 9499A170 model and will be able to get it to work?

It's on auction half the price of my model number but ends in 3 hours. So might take the chance if you think my chances are good.

Also, is the procedure for updating the VIN/chassis number and other stuff in the MCU with a Lexia cable documented somewhere here?

I'd also like to dump the code details around this before pulling it for reference if that procedure is also shared somewhere.

 

[Rational]

For whatever reason, different society norms and customs, language, etc. i have never seen, heard or had interactions with Japan home-market car owners, on any EVs or ICE car forums--mitsubishi, nissan, toyota, suzuki, also bmw and tesla.

Don't know why that is, or if the diy approach to solving problems is just not a thing in Japan, or the language difference is a big barrier.

Yes, Japan is a 'different' kind of culture. Both very modern and very old at the same time.

The Japanese are very trusting of their own culture and also not of others in respect to buying and using foreign products.

The majority of Japanese are not fixing old items but just prefer to buy new and throw away the old. Yet there is a 1-2% of the population that does this type of stuff, but mostly on the mechanical side and not so much on the software side. It's a strange contrast. But it means I can buy lots of stuff cheap here as they eventually get rid of it. To their credit they like to keep things until they're used up. So it can be a decade or two before they replace a car. But when they do, they buy a really nice, expensive new one and practically give away the old one or trash it. I guess they hedge towards buying quality and keeping it as long as possible. Which is a good idea really financially. Most often they buy Japan made. But foreign products are increasing a bit with the younger generation each decade.

 

[MickeyS70]

Also, is the procedure for updating the VIN/chassis number and other stuff in the MCU with a Lexia cable documented somewhere here?

Don’t think so but then this isn’t car specific. Once you have your setup working, take note of the VIN (chassis no) of the EMCU (or whatever it’s called in Diagbox) before you swap the unit.
Should be just a matter of overriding that value in the new unit afterwards but I’m sure this is explained in details on the PSA forum?

 

[Rational]

Don’t think so but then this isn’t car specific. Once you have your setup working, take note of the VIN (chassis no) of the EMCU (or whatever it’s called in Diagbox) before you swap the unit.
Should be just a matter of overriding that value in the new unit afterwards but I’m sure this is explained in details on the PSA forum?

Okay. Thanks. Didn't think of using the PSA forum until you mentioned it. I did a search on part numbers and "MCU" as well as "miev" there but came up empty. Seems they don't specialize in the miev at all as there are no posts.

Only a few hits on "ion". I guess I will order the A170 version of this inverter as it's super cheap and see if it will work. Hope to eventually find some typed up steps on how to program it so I can try once it arrives. Otherwise I'll have to experiment and see if I can figure it out. I'm reading that there might be other stuff in the eeprom other than the VIN/chassis number that need to match though, so wonder if anyone has figured this out yet as well.

 

[Rational]

Sounds like a mechanical failure in the reduction gear or motor. Drain the reduction gear oil and inspect. If you want to lower the pack charge just put it in ready and put the heater on, dont take the main battery out. May need a replacement motor.

Cheers

Thanks again for your kind reply Gary.

Quick question, do you know if MCU part number 9499A170 is compatible with 9499A620? Are they interchangeble to the car? And do you know if the internals are identical between models or slightly different?

My car has the A620 version in it from the factory. So from what I can tell it has a failed IGBT in it.

My understanding is that I can either replace the IGBT(s) in my current MCU, or buy a replacement MCU and figure out how to reprogram it.

Would you happen to have the steps to be able to reprogram the VIN/JDM Chassis number and know if there are eeprom checksums or other data that needs to be programmed as well?

I don't mind doing both methods (IGBT replacements and complete ECU swap/reprograming to learn both methods.

 

[Rational]

Alright. I've got more good news.

I was able to get hobdrive and canion talking to the car finally.

I have to say, these obd2 bluetooth dongles are finicky. You have to be patient with them and basically disconnect them and shut off and turn on the ignition each time to be sure the app will finally connect.

Also, your recommendation on the hobdrive Vehicle Settings > ECU Settings was key. I used the Miev -Lion-Tritinate setting but am not sure if that's correct for my pack. Should I just choose the LION setting?

I will document this and add a how-to section to the obd adapters thread to help the next guy. I could have saved two plus days of frustration if I better understood how to work with these adapaters and apps. I'll even make a video to share.

Well, when it finally connected, hobdrive let out a loud glass breaking sound. Guess that's how they signify it connected. lol.

Showed me a new error code of U1102 this time in addition to the P1A2A. No more U1111 it seems:


I think the U errors will go away though once I fix the underlying problem causing the P1A2A error.
In studying the U1102, it seems to indicate it's a CAN error which occurs when a component is bad, such as the ECU.
Same thing with U1111.


MCU status page shows this:


117 cell volt CMU page shows this: Is it normal for those 65.54v readings to be there in the middle?

Later Edit: My i-miev does NOT have 117 cells. I had the wrong profile chosen in hobdrive. I had somehow chosen the miev van titanate profile which is INCORRECT. It should be the i-miev LI-ION profile which will show the correct 88 battery cells. So this screenshot for hobdrive below is not reflecting reality correctly within this post. I will post correct screenshots again in a later post below.

BMU page shows this:


Canion Batt Status page shows I have a low cell #8? By only .01mv? Seems small. Nothing to worry about right?


Canion Batt Temp page says cell 4 and 30 are 1 degree lower. And cells 20,41 and 47 are one degree higher. Normal sensor variance right?


Ah History page:


Volts History page:


Well, those are the most relevant pages I know to share. Let me know if there are other more important pages you'd like to see.

 

[Rational]

It's also showing those high voltages in the 117 Diagram CMU page.



Seems to be in CMU6: For CMU6_Voltage05 and CMU6_Voltage06 as well as 7 and 8.


If true, wouldn't this be dangerous? Is this four shorted modules? Or likely a misreading by the CMU?

Later Edit: My i-miev does NOT have 117 cells. I had the wrong profile chosen in hobdrive. I had somehow chosen the "miev van titanate" profile which is INCORRECT. It should be the i-miev LI-ION profile which will show the correct 88 battery cells. So this screenshot for hobdrive above is not reflecting reality correctly within this post. I will post correct screenshots again in a later post below.

 

[MickeyS70]

It's also showing those high voltages in the 117 Diagram CMU page.

Wrong profile in HobDrive, use Li-Ion then values should match CanIon / OBDZero

I could have saved two plus days of frustration if I better understood how to work with these adapaters and apps.

Hindsight is 20/20 but looking back, it was a bit ambitious trying to ‘emulate’ a top $$$ professional diagnostics tool with a $15 clone; would have been great if that worked though…

I will document this and add a how-to section to the obd adapters thread to help the next guy. I'll even make a video to share.

Great idea..

I'm reading that there might be other stuff in the eeprom other than the VIN/chassis number that need to match though, so wonder if anyone has figured this out yet as well.

IIRC these were ‘VIN hacks’ directly programmed into the chip, but if you use a Diagnostic tool like Diagbox/MUT3 they will take care of such issues, I can’t imagine a dealer technician having to do checksum calculations after replace a VIN coded part?

Canion values look good, SoH of around 70% (31Ah) is not bad given age and high mileage of the car (if it’s the original pack)..

 

[Rational]

Great idea..

Thank you. Yes, I think so too. Glad to finally contribute back to you guys for all you've given me so far. I've also donated today. Grateful for you guys.

So I created a few how to videos on how to easily get the OBDLink LX bluetooth dongle to connect with the recommended apps on android..

Posted here: https://myimiev.com/threads/smartphone-tablet-apps-for-i-miev-c-zero-and-ion.4936/post-50388

This is the info I lacked and was frustrated for two days because of. I thought my dongle, android tablet or apps were not working. Not so.

It was the timing that was essential. Hope this helps the next guy.

 

[kiev]

Good job to get the dongle working and making videos to show the process.

The miev only has 88 cells, so the 117 makes no sense.

i know you drained your pack from Full, but does your car charge properly with no DTC?

The cover of the MCU can be removed without disconnect under the seat, if care is taken to ensure there is no HV from the pack. The only reason i mention is that many folks have caused an Airbag system fault when doing this, and that code can't be cleared easily. If the correct sequence is followed then the DTC won't occur, but more times than not folks get caught by it.

You never answered my question about the fasteners on the OBDLink LX, but i'm happy to sit back and watch.

 

[vik013]

I once repaired a car with stuck contacts in the high-voltage battery. The HV did not turn off. It is necessary to check.