I'm buying a non-runner MIEV here in Japan!

[Gary12345]

Sounds like a mechanical failure in the reduction gear or motor. Drain the reduction gear oil and inspect. If you want to lower the pack charge just put it in ready and put the heater on, dont take the main battery out. May need a replacement motor.

Cheers

 

[Rational]

Sounds like a mechanical failure in the reduction gear or motor. Drain the reduction gear oil and inspect. If you want to lower the pack charge just put it in ready and put the heater on, dont take the main battery out. May need a replacement motor.

Cheers

Thank you Gary! Love your youtube videos!

You've got a great ability to explain things very clearly and with an upbeat attitude. Thank you for all you share!

I'm really grateful you're here.

 

[Rational]

Sounds like a mechanical failure in the reduction gear or motor. Drain the reduction gear oil and inspect. If you want to lower the pack charge just put it in ready and put the heater on, dont take the main battery out. May need a replacement motor.

Cheers

By the way, do you know if the reduction gear (is that the gearbox?) is part of the motor assembly? I found three for sale on yahoo auctions for a couple a hundred bucks. Not sure of the exact problem yet as I can't get DTC codes yet. But might order a whole motor as they're so cheap.

Or perhaps the reduction gear is identical to the ICE version of the car?



So is the motor the left side in this pic and the reduction gear (gearbox?) the right side in this pic? That's my guess. But want to confirm.

If so, I can order both cheap together as one unit. I just need to figure out where to look to find the exact part number on my miev as I see a few different part numbers listed for sale.

 

[vik013]

I don't think the motor could have burned out, the first thing I suspect is the inverter.
650$ this is very expensive for a broken car, i bought similar cars in japan for about 100-300 dollars.

 

[MickeyS70]

By the way, do you know if the reduction gear (is that the gearbox?) is part of the motor assembly? I found three for sale on yahoo auctions for a couple a hundred bucks. Not sure of the exact problem yet as I can't get DTC codes yet. But might order a whole motor as they're so cheap.

Lots of info here:
https://myimiev.com/threads/transmission-7-42-lbs-gear-ratio-7-065.232/

Or perhaps the reduction gear is identical to the ICE version of the car?

Don’t think so as the ICE version has an actual gear box

So is the motor the left side in this pic and the reduction gear (gearbox?) the right side in this pic? That's my guess. But want to confirm.

Yes, reducer is on the right, but it’s not a gearbox

 

[Rational]

I don't think the motor could have burned out, the first thing I suspect is the inverter.
650$ this is very expensive for a broken car, i bought similar cars in japan for about 100-300 dollars.

Let's hope not. Well, this is Okinawa, so there aren't as many of these here as mainland Japan. For me I was wanting one urgently to start learning so grabbed the first one that popped up. Body was great so it's fine to learn on. Motors are like $200 with reduction gear attached. Inverters are like $50 from what I can see. You still in Japan? Or did you ship elsewhere?

 

[Rational]

Lots of info here:
https://myimiev.com/threads/transmission-7-42-lbs-gear-ratio-7-065.232/

Don’t think so as the ICE version has an actual gear box

Yes, reducer is on the right, but it’s not a gearbox

Oh, I will read up. Thanks.

Good to know a reducer is not a gearbox. Appreciate it.

You guys are so great, I'm going to donate to support the forum. I'm very grateful for all the support.

So I tried again last night to get the openport 2.0 working but the issue is the software still. So I've got a newer Gen 4 Dell laptop I started setting up last night with WIn 7 64 bit this time instead of Win 7 32 bit. I'm also being careful to install everything as administrator and check the box to always allow each vendor during the driver installs. Just to be sure nothing is hindering it.

I'm also ensuring it doesn't connect online as per the openport 2.0 clone recommendation as it can brick it if it communicates with tactrix or updates its drivers to the official ones.

I also had to watch a bunch of youtube videos to wrap my head around the different software out there and how it's supposed to be installed.

Seems I need to stick with MUT3 and/or Lexia/diagbox only as I learned all the other software out there is for other car makes/models mostly.

I also found that I may have to install the VCI drivers from the tools folder of MUT3. So that may have been the problem. I'll test again tonight. (I only had the openport drivers loaded. But also had the JLR drivers loaded which I don't believe are necessary with OP2).

I also found that some guys have had to install the scanmatik drivers to get it to talk. As well as make some edits to the files as seen here: https://www.digital-kaos.co.uk/foru...8-Mitsubishi-MUT-3-SE-with-Scanmatik-FOR-FREE So will try that next as well if it's still not working. I've discovered that they have scanmatic 2 (SM2) clone devices out now but reading they are not reliable. So I won't bother with them for now.

My $43 lexia3 clone should be here soon so can also test with that. And if that doesn't work, will order a FULL CHIP as recommended by the French site next.

I'll also try and get my motor/reducer part number off the car this weekend and see if I can find one for sale. Want to get the DTC codes first though if at all possible so I don't waste money if those aren't the actual problem.

 

[vik013]

Let's hope not. Well, this is Okinawa, so there aren't as many of these here as mainland Japan. For me I was wanting one urgently to start learning so grabbed the first one that popped up. Body was great so it's fine to learn on. Motors are like $200 with reduction gear attached. Inverters are like $50 from what I can see. You still in Japan? Or did you ship elsewhere?

I live in Russia, unfortunately the Japanese government has banned the export of electric cars to our country since last year.
In Japan there are a lot of spare parts for your car, there is no point in buying something in reserve.

 

[Rational]

No luck with Win 7 64bit on that laptop last night. Probably the openport 2.0 clone is the issue. It's just not seeing the VCI in any software I try. Not sure why. Driver? Not pointed correctly to the correct driver? I even tried the recommended registry redirect hack above to no avail.

MUT3 SE and Mut3 Full PRE21061 doesn't see the VCI adapter, nor any of the Diagbox VMs I've tried.

Even ecuflash doesn't see the vci adapter. So something is not right here. The openport drivers are deifinitely installed correctly as the adapter shows up in device manager just fine as a passthru device with the correct name.

Edit: Just found this from a russian doc file on how to install mut3.This is new info. I'll try this next. I'd only heard about installing the drivers from the \Tools\VCI-3 folder, which didn't work. I'll try this next.


But I'm guessing the Lexia adapter will work with these better.

But that will be another few days before arrival. So I'm setting up win 10 today to try again in the meantime in case it is something to do with the OS.

I also ordered a better version of the Lexia adapter yesterday as I'm not convinced the cheaper one will work upon arrival and I want to reduce delays in getting these DTCs as much as possible.

https://aliexpress.com/item/1005003040585651.html Specifically the recommended $67 "AT Standard BT" version as per https://www.psa-diag.fr/index.php .


Also, my version of MUT3 says it isn't compatible with Win10 when I just tried to install it just now. FYI.
Curious if there are newer versions that may be.

 

[Rational]

Also, most software asks for a VIN number when it can't detect it on its own. However my shorter than 17 digits Japanese chassis number never satisfies these tools. Is there a way to find or add digits to my chassis number that will get these tools to work?

 

[MickeyS70]

No luck with Win 7 64bit on that laptop last night. Probably the openport 2.0 clone is the issue. It's just not seeing the VCI in any software I try. Not sure why. Driver? Not pointed correctly to the correct driver? I even tried the recommended registry redirect hack above to no avail

Appreciate your efforts with above but maybe before jumping in straight at the deep end, I would stick to the ‘tried and tested’ basic solutions first?

I’d say you have a far better chance to get DTCs with a genuine OBD Link LX dongle than trying the same with a $15 openport 2.0 clone?

Check out video below how to configure/install Car Scanner (approx first 7min)

Also, most software asks for a VIN number when it can't detect it on its own. However my shorter than 17 digits Japanese chassis number never satisfies these tools. Is there a way to find or add digits to my chassis number that will get these tools to work?

The tools query a CAN PID that contains the VIN and (if detected automatically) are usually satisfied with its content (as shown in one of your pics), meanwhile a manual entry needs to conform to the 17 digit standard.

 

[Rational]

Appreciate your efforts with above but maybe before jumping in straight at the deep end, I would stick to the ‘tried and tested’ basic solutions first?

I’d say you have a far better chance to get DTCs with a genuine OBD Link LX dongle than trying the same with a $15 openport 2.0 clone?

Check out video below how to configure/install Car Scanner (approx first 7min)




The tools query a CAN PID that contains the VIN and (if detected automatically) are usually satisfied with its content (as shown in one of your pics), meanwhile a manual entry needs to conform to the 17 digit standard.

Thanks Mickey. I'd meant to answer this better earlier a few times already on the LX dongle. I don't think mine is fake. It even has the reset button on it fwiw. I could be wrong, but the box it came in was extra deluxe with all kinds of paper inserts and came direct from Amazon Japan. I'll try and make time tonight to take a picture of it all for you tonight. It even detects fine and connects via bluetooth. One app, I can't remember which one right now passes all tests. It just doesn't populate any details in any app. But I'm thinking my old android 6 tablet is just too old maybe?

My other test cars are also very old. A 2002 Toyota Alphard van, a 2007 Prius 2.0, and a Nissan Leaf 1st gen from 2014.

I'll check out the video now.

 

[MickeyS70]

But I'm thinking my old android 6 tablet is just too old maybe?

I run all most of my apps on an old Galaxy note phone on Android 5?

My other test cars are also very old. A 2002 Toyota Alphard van, a 2007 Prius 2.0, and a Nissan Leaf 1st gen from 2014.

Car scanner has a profile for your Prius, Leaf and most important I-MIEV

I'll check out the video now. Oh, I brought in my LX adapter today, so can at least post a pic of it. It even has the reset button on it fwiw.

The LX is used in the video, look at a still for comparison

 

[Rational]

I run all most of my apps on an old Galaxy note phone on Android 5?

Car scanner has a profile for your Prius, Leaf and most important I-MIEV

The LX is used in the video, look at a still for comparison

Thanks. Yeah, looks identical. Glad to hear it works on old androids. So maybe not that.

Maybe it's just this miev. I think it may have been carscanner that passed all the tests. I'll confirm tonight as I took screenshots on the andoid tablet of everything that failed. I think that was the only app that had a profile but it didn't help.

Canion won't connect to the car either even though the LX is connected via bluetooth. This car just doensn't want to talk easily it seems.

I'll share more tonight when I get home from work in a few hours. Also, I wonder if I could connect via bluetooth on a laptop and it would work with some apps or software if I knew which ones would work?

 

[MickeyS70]

Maybe it's just this miev. I think it may have been carscanner that passed all the tests. I'll confirm tonight as I took screenshots on the andoid tablet of everything that failed. I think that was the only app that had a profile but it didn't help.

If you can get valid data from your Prius/Leaf through the LX via Car Scanner then your setup is working and problems with the IMiev are car (protocol?) specific.

Canion won't connect to the car either even though the LX is connected via bluetooth.

Did you get a ‘connected successfully’ shortly after the app started? Key needs to be ON or car READY. On the right lower side of the screen what does the fps value read?

Best to restart the phone every time you swap between apps as some won’t release Bluetooth properly otherwise.

Also, I wonder if I could connect via bluetooth on a laptop and it would work with some apps or software if I knew which ones would work?

Never tried, but HobDrive is available for Windows desktop..

 

[Rational]

If you can get valid data from your Prius/Leaf through the LX via Car Scanner then your setup is working and problems with the IMiev are car (protocol?) specific.

Did you get a ‘connected successfully’ shortly after the app started? Key needs to be ON or car READY. On the right lower side of the screen what does the fps value read?

Best to restart the phone every time you swap between apps as some won’t release Bluetooth properly otherwise.


Never tried, but HobDrive is available for Windows desktop..

I finally got Camscanner to connect! Had to hit the button on the LX after initial failed attempt.

Getting codes U1111 and P1A2A still after clearing the initial codes it found.

I'll post pics next. Finally!!!!

 

[MickeyS70]

I finally got Camscanner to connect! Had to hit the button on the LX after initial failed attempt.

Getting codes U1111 and P1A2A still after clearing the initial codes it found.

I'll post pics next. Finally!!!!

Happy days, unfortunately P1A2A this isn’t exactly good news but on the up side it’s unlikely you will need a motor/reducer gear

https://myimiev.com/threads/c-zero-fault-code-p1a2a.5482/

 

[Rational]

Happy days, unfortunately P1A2A this isn’t exactly good news but on the up side it’s unlikely you will need a motor/reducer gear

https://myimiev.com/threads/c-zero-fault-code-p1a2a.5482/

Okay. Thank you. So a cursory question before I dig into the deeper reading.

Is it possible to determine the exact model MCU I have and just order a used replacement and possibly swap it in? Maybe just needing to reprogram the VIN number? (Chassis number).

 

[MickeyS70]

Okay. Thank you. So a cursory question before I dig into the deeper reading.

Is it possible to determine the exact model ECU I have and just order a used replacement and possibly swap it in? Maybe just needing to reprogram the VIN number? (Chassis number).

Yes, the MCU (inverter) is VIN coded (or in your case the chassis number is used instead) but MUT3/Diagbox can take care of that after a swap.

 

[Rational]

Yes, the MCU (inverter) is VIN coded (or in your case the chassis number is used instead) but MUT3/Diagbox can take care of that after a swap.

Okay. Perfect. I will study up and find out the exact part number of my MCU (oh, it's the MCU, not the ECU that's bad on my car?) and see if I can find one for sale. That should be the quickest method.

I'll also try a repair on this one so as to have a backup. And learn. And share the results. Thank you!