I often wonder about all the can-bus hoopla required to keep the iMiev going. Coming from the old school of EV-conversion and diysolar, can we not just gut/by-pass all the fancy stuff and operate the iMiev with simpe BMS/charger and a speed-controller ?
Help to get a wrecked car working, clearing error codes
- Thread starter Timh
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Well yes it would be possible. But it all comes down to cost and quality. The oem stuff like Leaf and Imiev is seriously solid engineering AND dirt cheap! I've got a crashed one for 500€ including Chademo fast charging.
The aftermarket world of chargers (slow only), controllers, bms etc is just super expensive. And fast charging is virtually impossible.
The downside is that my conversion would currently require me to run with a trailer carrying all the loom and extraneous bits and bobs!
It will be very challenging for me, and I will definitely need help, but if we can get this kit to run without the SRS climate and abs systems then it becomes a really good option for classic conversions. Either with the full rear subframe as it's narrow track makes it very suitable for the elder European vehicle. Or just the motor and controllers as I plan for my Peugeot 203 conversion because unlike most electric motors it doesn't turn too fast and only has a 6:1 reduction gear instead of the 8:1 in Leaf etc. Often a 6:1 diff will be available for a classic car that had a commercial variant and then using this doesn't need the gearbox or any mods to brakes etc because power stays very similar to original.
It all sounds so simple, just got to do it!
There is no need for any ‘CAN-bus hoopla’, the stock FW will happily run even with higher capacity cells, only draw back is that one can only use the first 45Ah..
You may want to talk to this guy:
https://myimiev.com/threads/i-miev-hot-rod-anyone.5072/
Thats a fantastic project. But quite different to what I'm planning. We've got a Peugeot 203 (1958), it's a monocoque so we can't use the imiev and stick a body on top. We'll be using the Peugeot chassis and engineering, with a diff from. The pickup variant, and the imiev electric motor in place of the original gearbox. The battery will be rebuilt with MG HS modules and split into three compartments. Two under the front seats and the other in place of the engine. The plan is a new enclosure housing the BMU and all CMU cards, then cables linking them to each of their corresponding cells. But we'll see.
The SRS isn't really the problem because it works without any airbags, so is quite a light thing to include if required and maintains the impact HV shutdown safety, which seems like a good plan! The problems I forsee are the lack of wheel speed sensors, power steering rack, dashboard, and climate control.
The guy with the BMW conversion did a lot of good work but then the blog just stopped (around covid). I Messaged him a while back, but no response so far.
The SRS isn't really the problem because it works without any airbags, so is quite a light thing to include if required and maintains the impact HV shutdown safety, which seems like a good plan! The problems I forsee are the lack of wheel speed sensors, power steering rack, dashboard, and climate control.
The guy with the BMW conversion did a lot of good work but then the blog just stopped (around covid). I Messaged him a while back, but no response so far.
The CMUs provide cell voltage and temperature Information, while it’s simple enough to extend the lines to measure cell voltages, the (tiny) temperature sensors are actually located on the CMU boards?
Had to google what a 1958 Peugeot 203 looks like, gorgeous car…
Yep, the temperature sensors will be the challenge. I haven't had a close look at one yet. When I had a load of cmu cards they sold so fast I didn't get a chance! When I was building a Lithium battery to replace the 8 lead acids in my electric Moke (fun, but far from gorgeous!), I discovered that the temperature sensors built in to the MG ZS 2 EV lithium battery modules had the same temp/resistance gradient as those supplied with the Chinese bms I used. So I could keep the sensors on the modules and wire them straight up to the bms. I doubt I'll get that lucky again. But Assuming I can remove the temp sensors from the cmu then I hope we can move them, or get some more rugged types that match the specs and wire them in. If they're silly tiny then we'll have to think again. Just one of the 'fun' challenges to come!
They are. You could just get some new RTDs and solder or glue them wherever you want.
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Thanks Kiev. I think that counts as silly small! That inspired me to fish out the pics I took when I had the boards. Are there really six temp sensors for every eight cells? That's all I can see, but it seems weird. I mean if you want to be all health and safety go one for one, and if not, go one per 4cell pack. But 6 for 8 just seems messy, so I probably missed something.
I'll have to get one in a situation where I can run a temperature graduation and then compare with those on the MG modules... And then probably find suitable replacements.
I'll have to get one in a situation where I can run a temperature graduation and then compare with those on the MG modules... And then probably find suitable replacements.
Happy new year everyone.
I've been enjoying some silly test driving in my Ion cabriolet. I've resolved the P0c73 fault code... It was the relay. So I swapped it out for the horn relay. I took the opportunity to check all the others and they're working fine.
But I still can't charge on type 2. The charge cable triggers the car, the car closes contractors, turns on the fan etc. then just turns it all off again.
Using diag box there are currently no error codes in EV ecu or charger. I have some in the heating system where I can't get any joy from the heater.
I had a quick look at the on-board charger page. Wow! Is this situation of no error codes a common occurrence? I don't want to go diagnosing the charger if the problem is something completely different related to the systems required to allow charging...
Many thanks,
Tom.
I've been enjoying some silly test driving in my Ion cabriolet. I've resolved the P0c73 fault code... It was the relay. So I swapped it out for the horn relay. I took the opportunity to check all the others and they're working fine.
But I still can't charge on type 2. The charge cable triggers the car, the car closes contractors, turns on the fan etc. then just turns it all off again.
Using diag box there are currently no error codes in EV ecu or charger. I have some in the heating system where I can't get any joy from the heater.
I had a quick look at the on-board charger page. Wow! Is this situation of no error codes a common occurrence? I don't want to go diagnosing the charger if the problem is something completely different related to the systems required to allow charging...
Many thanks,
Tom.
Did you try a different EVSE/cable
The OBC only starts ‘talking CAN’ when it’s activated, looks like in your case it never gets that far..
I remember one specific case where even after replacing a complete OBC and cable looms, the issue remained, turned out to be a blown fuse of the interior light circuit, not something that’s obvious and you certainly would not notice?
The fuse for the interior light... Holy guacamole batman. That is sensitive! I will check the fuse (I've already checked all the 'important' fuses) ... Although the interior light is long gone. Could that be a problem I wonder?
No, I haven't tried another evse, you're right, that has to be ruled out. But I do use that evse with that type2-1 adaptor on my Leaf. And as far as I know if it works on one, it should work on all. I don't really fancy buying one to try. I'll try and borrow a type 1.
So it's not the charger that interfaces with the evse and activates everything else on the car? It's the ev-ecu that does that, then once satisfied triggers the charger?
Hmmm. Thanks Mickey.
No, I haven't tried another evse, you're right, that has to be ruled out. But I do use that evse with that type2-1 adaptor on my Leaf. And as far as I know if it works on one, it should work on all. I don't really fancy buying one to try. I'll try and borrow a type 1.
So it's not the charger that interfaces with the evse and activates everything else on the car? It's the ev-ecu that does that, then once satisfied triggers the charger?
Hmmm. Thanks Mickey.
The circuit branches off at some stage after the fuse, don’t think you need a working light?
You’re correct, it’s unlikely to be the EVSE if it works with a Leaf, but what about the plug/cabling on the car side?
The EVSE interfaces with both, the OBC and EV-ECU.
Check out the diagram in the workshop manual:
http://mmc-manuals.ru/manuals/i-miev/online/Service_Manual/img/90/HET04E01AC00ENG.pdf
Did you say you tested the OBC Relay?
Found the thread with the dome light problem:
https://myimiev.com/threads/swapping-obcs-as-diagnostic-safe.5606/page-3
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Thanks. Yep that was quite a journey. And I'm quite surprised it is true! When/if I get mine charging again I'll be sure to pull fuse 13 to confirm that it does indeed prevent charging.
Anyhow my fuse 13 is currently fine sadly. As are all fuses. As an aside why did Mitsubishi decide it was necessary to use three different fuse formats in this car when one could cover all used values? And two different 4pin relays formats as well.
I did test the obc relay by inserting it in the horn socket and testing functionality. But when using the actuator test for that relay I hear no clicking. Suspicious.
I believe I have to look at this charger trouble shooting a little different from most as the car has been in a huge accident and apparently charged just fine before that. I could check the charger port and harness etc but visually they appear perfect, and it would be unlikely (not impossible of course) for the cables to happily send the signal from ecu through evse and back to ecu and hence trigger the on-board stuff, but not allow charging.
It feels like. I should concentrate first on the issues in the hvac. I have a B1065 distribution motor fault. (the central plastic enclosure with fan and vents under the dash exploded in the accident. There are 4 vent servo motors. Don't yet know which it is complaining about, but none of them are doing their jobs even those that turn. Could that bother the charging as it checks potential battery cooling?
When I try actuator test for battery cooling flap I get : ACTIVATION NOT POSSIBLE additional results 22.
When I try actuator test on Heating Request: ACTIVATION NOT POSSIBLE additional results 22.
I don't find that very useful! Any ideas what 22 means?
Anyhow my fuse 13 is currently fine sadly. As are all fuses. As an aside why did Mitsubishi decide it was necessary to use three different fuse formats in this car when one could cover all used values? And two different 4pin relays formats as well.
I did test the obc relay by inserting it in the horn socket and testing functionality. But when using the actuator test for that relay I hear no clicking. Suspicious.
I believe I have to look at this charger trouble shooting a little different from most as the car has been in a huge accident and apparently charged just fine before that. I could check the charger port and harness etc but visually they appear perfect, and it would be unlikely (not impossible of course) for the cables to happily send the signal from ecu through evse and back to ecu and hence trigger the on-board stuff, but not allow charging.
It feels like. I should concentrate first on the issues in the hvac. I have a B1065 distribution motor fault. (the central plastic enclosure with fan and vents under the dash exploded in the accident. There are 4 vent servo motors. Don't yet know which it is complaining about, but none of them are doing their jobs even those that turn. Could that bother the charging as it checks potential battery cooling?
When I try actuator test for battery cooling flap I get : ACTIVATION NOT POSSIBLE additional results 22.
When I try actuator test on Heating Request: ACTIVATION NOT POSSIBLE additional results 22.
I don't find that very useful! Any ideas what 22 means?
Somehow i missed that there is a pull-down/bleed resistor on the blue wire of the regular charging port cunct line to the EV-ECU. Has anyone ever seen it or know where on the car it is located?
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Everything in that schematic is on the car.
Do you hear any other relay ‘clicking’ during the test? If yes, you may be on to something..
Automatic AC cooling is only enabled for CHAdeMon DC charging and should therefore not affect AC sessions, but then who knows?
I think (but could easily be wrong) that the charging process is initiated by the PP (resistor network in the plug handle) and EV-ECU but then fails when the EVSE cannot communicate with the OBC via the CP line?
This could be because the OBC never ‘wakes up’ (no 14V from the OBC relay) therefore manually powering up the OBC (bypassing the relay) might get you a step further?
I can't get to the workshop this morning due to child minding duties, but... In the OBC troubleshooting guide I see:
Well the dcdc converter is working fine when in ready so does that mean there's nothing wrong with the signal pathway or activity of the OBC relay?
Does it also mean the OBC is powered up the whole time the vehicle is driving, even though that's the exact time the OBC can't be used?
The on board charger relay is controlled by the EV-ECU, and supplies the power to the on board charger/DC-DC converter.Well the dcdc converter is working fine when in ready so does that mean there's nothing wrong with the signal pathway or activity of the OBC relay?
Does it also mean the OBC is powered up the whole time the vehicle is driving, even though that's the exact time the OBC can't be used?
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