Gear Selector Misbehaving

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bicycle teflon spray chain lube ? I've thought about covering up that open space in the rear, mainly for aeromode, now I have another reason. Though I was wondering if the opening helps with cooling the motor ? but the motor is cooled with coolant right ?
 
Yeah. Everything back there is liquid cooled, so you shouldn't have any thermal issues with closing that in. Should help considerably with range, as the rear bumper looks like it acts as a parachute.

There is a thread regarding aerodynamic mods. Perhaps you could continue on in that thread with your project.
 
My iMiev has had the stiff gear selector problem 3 times, fixed under guarantee twice, the last time I just used wd40 on all the rear pivots and it works well.
now carry a tin of WD40 in glove box.
 
Ummm, need to be cautious with WD-40, as it is a solvent not a lubricant. Great as a short-term fix but not as a long-term solution as it may actually clean out any residual grease or oil in there.

For mechanical parts with no rubber component, then a petroleum-based light grease or oil is just fine. Clean first to get rid of dirt/grit.

For anything with rubber, unless it is synthetic, then a non-petroleum based lubricant is advisable (e.g., silicone grease). Thankfully, most automotive products (except tires) are designed nowadays to live with petroleum oils and not deteriorate on contact.

For sheathed cables, depending on their composition, a light oil works ok. Bicycle shops seem to favor Tri-Flow, but it is a bit too 'runny' (low viscosity) for my liking, but is also useful instead of using WD-40 if you just want to be quick-and-dirty and spray things.

My 2¢, FWIW, although I personally haven't crawled under there to see exactly what all the linkages and cable are that need to be lubricated.

JoeS.
 
JoeS said:
montybazbaz said:
...In desperation I try some WD40 on every joint/pivot on the cable/switch/rod mechanism at the rear of the car. And the selector now works beatifully.....
Wow, so you've shown that it is simply a lubrication issue and not an alignment problem or loose hardware. Thank you for your follow-up posting.

Now that you have temporarily addressed the issue (I never consider WD40 a permanent solution) perhaps need to consider all the moving parts (sheathed cables, levers, etc.) and figure out the best lubricant for each and carefully clean the surfaces and apply it? I can see this being a future issue for our friends in snowy northern climes.

I've also had an issue wit the shift lever. Almost every time I put it in reverse, I was getting RBS light + the exclamation mark. Then I needed to cycle the ignition so it can return to normal. My wife also got it once in drive and she got RBS light with also the turtle. I noticed that the shift indicator in the dash was not showing the correct gear.

I went under my i-Miev at the transmission, disconnected the shift cable, cleaned and lubricated everything. It was working a lot better but I also needed to slightly adjust shift sensor as per the manual.

Everything is find now ! I must say that where I live , the put a lot of salt on the roads in the winter.
 
The problem is not uncommon. In most cases the gearswitch mechanism needs some cleaning and lubricating, if it stucks. In most cases a few spray shots with WD40 does help.
 
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