Can 120 v. outlet be run off one leg of 208 v. circuit?

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peterdambier said:
!!! Dont do this at home !!! :)
Please don't invite anyone to do that anywhere!! Someone who doesn't comprehend how utterly stupid and dangerous something like that is might actually be tempted to try it

I have heard but not verified, that some EVSEs dont need PROXIMITY. They use it to power a flash light to help you find the J1772 socket of your car.
Our car doesn't need PROXIMITY and when I built my Open EVSE I did use that extra wire to power a bright LED mounted in the charging handle to aid in making the connection in the dark - Works great

Don
 
Hi Again,

I was suggesting that only the 120 VAC be replaced with 240 VAC and that this connection be done using a relay powered by the 120 VAC power to the car coming out of the EVSE.

I think if you do this then the proximity and pilot signals are intact from the EVSE all the safety mechanisms are also intact and the sequence of pluging to charging is intact. The only thing that changes is the charger in the car see 240 volts and still draw only 8 amps and charges in half the time.

No need to mod the EVSE.

Any reason why this would not work ?

Don.....
 
No way.

An unmodified EVSE for 120V will only check L1 for leaks. It does not know L2.

To see 240V your car needs both L1 and L2. 240V on either L1 or L2 will kill it.

A leak on L2 will kill you.
 
Hi Again,

This is a schematic of an EVSE:

http://code.google.com/p/open-evse/wiki/EVSE_Example75A

As far as I can tell L1 and L2 are switched thru a relay.

In the 120 Volt mitsubishi EVSE I guess L2 is not there only L1 and gnd going to the J1772.

Now all I am proposing is to move the L1 and L2 lines and relay outside the EVSE and run them from a dryer plug. Then use the L1 and GND from the evse to energise the new 120VAC relay outside the EVSE.

Not sure what the danger is in this if it's done correctly in a fixed location like a home garage. This site shows you how to build an EV simulator with a diode and a resistor so that you could test it out without connecting it to the car just to make sure it works.

Still not a good idea ?

Don.......
 
Don,

The EVSE Upgrade mod converts the OEM EVSE from L1 only at 8 amps to an autosensing L1/L2 EVSE and they can set the current to anything you like between 8 and about 12.5 amps - The current is limited by the 16 gauge wires in the pigtail which run to the car. The cost is around $300. Unless you know for sure what you're doing, I think it would be safer to have them modify the unit rather than trying to modify something which may not be safe or which could harm either the EVSE, the car or the user

Don
 
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