C-ZERO Fault code P1A2A

[MickeyS70]

I don't think I've seen anyone use a variable resistor, in order to be able to adjust the value in case of drift over time, would it be a good idea?

I don't know if we'll do the AD202KN solution, which costs a lot, but it's an easy solution.

You didn’t like the resistor solution as it only cured the symptoms, not the cause, using a variable resistor isn’t going to be any different?

The AD202KN is no longer manufactured, hence the high price but ‘beggars can’t be choosers’ if you want to fix the issue properly..

 

[martinwinlow]

I have done 2 different cars now with the resistor fix and both continue to function nominally. Why waste time and money on a different solution that may not work?

 

[stoatwblr]

You didn’t like the resistor solution as it only cured the symptoms, not the cause, using a variable resistor isn’t going to be any different?

The AD202KN is no longer manufactured, hence the high price but ‘beggars can’t be choosers’ if you want to fix the issue properly..

The AD202KNATI is a drop in replacement at about half the price, but numbers are limited (Farnell has 114 left)

It would be better to find another device though

 

[Rational]

I'm experiencing a breakdown on my 2012 C-Zero with a total of 110000km,
The car starts and goes into ready mode, as soon as I change gear P -> R / N or D, the light of the car with the exclamation mark appears, the car remains motionless no reaction to the pedal.

Hi Neo5.

I have the exact same issue as you. Car starts and goes into ready just fine. But if I put it in to D or R I get the exclamation mark immediately as the car tries to move a half inch but can't. Then the car will not move at all thereafter. No ability to go forward or backward. Error code P1A2A same as you.

So you say you were able to change the IGBTs on the MCU? Are they removeable from another working MCU if I were to purchase one?

I wonder if this may be the easiest solution for me if that's the case.

Othewise I could try to swap out the entire MCU, but I haven't found anyone who has typed up the process to reprogram an ECU. I've read that it is VIN encoded, but there may also be other eeprom checksums that have to be programmed as well and no one has done it yet?

Further you state you then had a P1A15 error appear next. Related? Or coincidence? Were you able to get it fixed? Did you order a AD202KNATI and swap it out?

Thanks much for whatever you can share. There is not much info out there on our particular issue and this is keeping me from being able to use my new 2011 miev until I can figure out the programming of a new ECU or swap the IGBTs it sounds like.

 

[kiev]

Since you have a 2011, Open the MCU cover and inspect if it uses the same IGBTs as were shown in the other thread for a 2012. If so then they can be easily swapped.

i don't think anyone ever figured out the check sum or CRC for the eeprom data. Plus you have that less-than-17-digits VIN so who knows how it was handled.

 

[Neo5]

Hi, replacing the IGBTs was easy, the hardest part was getting them because they are not sold at retail, I was lucky enough to find 3, for safety I replaced all 3, but the original 2 seemed good that I kept (1 had black spots), we can look if you are not too far away (I am from France) so that I can send you the two that seem good, of course if it mounts on your car as kyiv announces.

Maybe there is a way to test the IGBT to know that they are 100% functional ?

Regarding the P1A15 error I had it 2 times, I deleted the fault with the diagbox, I didn't have a new one, the car has been working for 4 - 5 months without any problems

 

[Rational]

Hi, replacing the IGBTs was easy, the hardest part was getting them because they are not sold at retail, I was lucky enough to find 3, for safety I replaced all 3, but the original 2 seemed good that I kept (1 had black spots), we can look if you are not too far away (I am from France) so that I can send you the two that seem good, of course if it mounts on your car as kyiv announces.

Maybe there is a way to test the IGBT to know that they are 100% functional ?

Regarding the P1A15 error I had it 2 times, I deleted the fault with the diagbox, I didn't have a new one, the car has been working for 4 - 5 months without any problems

Thank you for your answer and kind offer Neo5. Very gracious of you.

I'm in Japan though. It's probably about the same cost to order a spare MCU PN: 9499A620 and just move the IGBTs over if that's the main culprit. Thank you for confirming it's fairly easy and is a confirmed fix.

You should keep yours on hand in case it occurs again anyway, that way you'll have them handy.

I'd still love to research the reprogramming method though so complete MCU swaps become a confirmed option as well. Hope someone here will share that info to keep more of these on the road and further help save the planet's resources.

Any chance you still have those more detailed pics? It seems the original links to those are dead now.

I'll see about opening up my ECU as soon as I can. I believe I just pull the main safety fuse under the passenger seat and that is enough to kill power to the incoming ECU leads?

Thanks again for all your help and sharing the details on our particular issue. It's been a great help knowing this is the fix.

 

[Rational]

Hi, replacing the IGBTs was easy, the hardest part was getting them because they are not sold at retail, I was lucky enough to find 3, for safety I replaced all 3, but the original 2 seemed good that I kept (1 had black spots), we can look if you are not too far away (I am from France) so that I can send you the two that seem good, of course if it mounts on your car as kyiv announces.

Maybe there is a way to test the IGBT to know that they are 100% functional ?

Regarding the P1A15 error I had it 2 times, I deleted the fault with the diagbox, I didn't have a new one, the car has been working for 4 - 5 months without any problems

Took mine out today. Which IGBT had the black spots on yours? The middle one?

If so, then the same as me. Do you know what the cause of the burn out was to the IGBT?

For my car, the prior owner said she was trying to tow a 2-ton truck! OMG... She said she didn't get far like 1-3 minutes? Then the car stopped and would never move again so she sold it to me.

Some similar cause for yours? Too heavy of a load?

I think it burns out this middle one because it's the first IGBT in the power path. It's the WHITE motor cable, which might be Neutral? Not sure.

I added my pics and videos as well as all my details learned so far here: https://myimiev.com/threads/im-buying-a-non-runner-miev-here-in-japan.5649/page-6#post-50403

 

[Neo5]

Hi,

I couldn't answer more top, I was on vacation,

Here are my photos:

The IGBT that was supposed to be out of order was also the middle one in my case, but the black spot is very light in my case, unlike your IGBT.

The cause that burned out my IGBT, after ~15j stationary in the rain, when restarting the car, it forced, I think the disc brakes seized and it stopped immediately.

I thought the motor was three-phase, given the wiring diagrams on http://mmc-manuals.ru/

 

[kiev]

Thanks for sharing your pictures and the root cause of the stalled motor/ blown transistor.

Indeed it is a 3-phase motor, 3 sets of windings, totally unrelated to the use of the word "phase" used for the mains AC power lines.

 

[Rational]

Hi,

I couldn't answer more top, I was on vacation,

Here are my photos:

The IGBT that was supposed to be out of order was also the middle one in my case, but the black spot is very light in my case, unlike your IGBT.

The cause that burned out my IGBT, after ~15j stationary in the rain, when restarting the car, it forced, I think the disc brakes seized and it stopped immediately.

I thought the motor was three-phase, given the wiring diagrams on http://mmc-manuals.ru/

No worries Neo5! All good. I appreciate the updated photos too.

I will be replacing the IGBTs when I get the replacement unit. Thank you.

It's good to know that these almost never fail for most users. Unless they really try to force it to drive when stuck from seized brakes or pulling too heavy of a load.

It seems to be the charger that fails mostly for users. So I will try to source some used charger units as well just in case.

I'll share my pics and results once done. Thank you again!