Blue 2011 iOn, Isle of Colonsay

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martinwinlow

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 1, 2012
Messages
111
Picture:
VRM: NX11DUA
VIN: VF...801885
Colour: Blue
Date of 1st UK reg - 20Apr2011
Variant: 1NZKZ
Version: 1NZKZZ
Odo when bought: 26000 miles, Current: same.

Issues:
B1476: IG1(A) voltage extraordinarily low
B1477: IG1(B) voltage extraordinarily low
B1551: SRS alarm lamp harness open
B1065: Outlet change over DMPR.motor
U1111: Display CAN time out/not equipped
P1A2D: battery cooling fan (BMU)
P1AC3: Battery cooling fan (rest fail)
P1A48: BATT.cooling fan output circuit
CMU1
4: Controll voltage
6: Input voltage

Canion:
Blue ion canion .jpg

Having removed and dismantled the battery pack, Cell 76 is confirmed lower than all the others as per Canion screenshot. About to replace with used older (blue-covered and tested at 37Ah capacity on a 10A charge/discharge cycle) cell charged to 4.03V to match the others in the relevant module.
 
However, despite the car going to 'Ready' *before* charging (but after Cell 76 was replaced) and the axle rotating in 'D' whilst still on the car lift (I didn't test drive it as the battery lid was still off), *after* charging found the P1A15 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) appeared! I have remedied this with the usual controller 'Hybrid PCB 2MR resistor fix' and the car now goes to 'Ready' again. In the process, I discovered that the (clone) MUT3 I have has a facility to record the 'Condenser' voltage at start up showing (in my case) a max voltage of 346V before the system aborted start-up and set the P1A15 DTC (Youtube video to follow).

I have since concluded that the P1A15 issue was probably the original reason this car was laid up for so long. Having been left for the best part of 2 years un-driven and un-charged (as I understand it from the previous owner), Cell 76 deteriorated to the point where it needed replacing. Maybe it was just a coincidence... who knows?

Anyway, I hope to test drive it later today - even if it is only to get it off the car lift as something more urgent needs doing.
 
Great repair work there, that is really impressive.

It's funny how all those DTCs and none of them pointed to the real issue. Many thanks for Canion to show the problem child.
 
Test drove OK but the car is clearly suffering from the usual stiff/seized-up gearbox gear actuator arm issue. I'll have to apply some lube...
 
Youtube video demonstrating the use of the MUT3 to diagnose the P1A15 issue by recording the start-up attempt voltage spike on the controller 'condenser' - and how to actually get to the data...



Edit: I'm beginning to wonder if the upper and lower Y axis limits can be amended (using the wee boxes with red numbers in them) to give greater detail at the relevant voltage. I'll have a look next chance I get...
 
Last edited:
Great repair work there, that is really impressive.

It's funny how all those DTCs and none of them pointed to the real issue. Many thanks for Canion to show the problem child.
I think most of them were a result of the stuffed 12V aux battery...
 
The resistor "fix" is really a bodge. The voltage measurement circuit has become unreliable and you're skewing it to pull it back in to range. The reason the voltage has to be correct in the MCU before the car will close the main contactors is to prevent sparking and so that the car can detect any drains on the HV system outside the battery. So it may just fail again if it goes more unreliable and if there is an issue like moisture in the AC compressor then the HV system may start anyway as the car can't correctly read the voltage as you've skewed it upwards in to what looks like the correct range irrespective of what the voltage actually is.

A much better fix is to replace the hybrid board with a new isolation amplifier.

Cheers
 
The resistor "fix" is really a bodge. The voltage measurement circuit has become unreliable and you're skewing it to pull it back in to range. The reason the voltage has to be correct in the MCU before the car will close the main contactors is to prevent sparking and so that the car can detect any drains on the HV system outside the battery. So it may just fail again if it goes more unreliable and if there is an issue like moisture in the AC compressor then the HV system may start anyway as the car can't correctly read the voltage as you've skewed it upwards in to what looks like the correct range irrespective of what the voltage actually is.

A much better fix is to replace the hybrid board with a new isolation amplifier.

Cheers
Thank you. I appreciate it is a 'bodge' and would certainly prefer to effect a 'proper' repair. I think I read somewhere here that a replacement hybrid PCB (if that's what you are saying needs replacing) is available from one of the forum members...?
Also, would it be fair to say that if the P1A15 issue remains with both the heater and compressor HV connectors disconnected that it would eliminate these two possible causes of the condition... and therefore pinpoint the problem as the hybrid board?
 
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