2011 OBC Compatible?

[MickeyS70]

but it has improved in the last 6 months of slow charging,

Did you charge to 100% each time and left the car plugged in afterwards?

 

[frank1]

Did you charge to 100% each time and left the car plugged in afterwards?

yes mostly, usually at 6a, sometimes at 10a, and once at 13a, and plug it out when convenient

 

[HenriFred]

I also mostly used wallcharging until the OBC capacitors fried.
I can use chademo charging but there is non in the town where work so i wouldn't back home

 

[HenriFred]

Here is a beauty,
View attachment 866

That was how i'd wanted to look mine like. But allas very tidy soldering!!!

 

[HenriFred]

Thank you so much for your input. I get to it as soon as i get back from hollidays. Which obd scanner do you use? Or maybe that is another thread

 

[HenriFred]

My 2011 peugeot ion has an inverter (Mod. edit: OBC) which is non repairable.
Tried to solder 2 new capacitors but damaged the back of the circuit board.
Waa thinking to buy a used one but i could only find one with the same partnumber which was to expensive. I also read that thes older inverters (Mod. edit: OBCs) are bad in design so the same thing might happen after I'd buy a used one.
Does anyone know if it's possible to use a younger inverter (Mod. edit: OBC)?
If yes wich partnumbers might be compatible?
Kind regards,
Henri

Plan B or is it D allready

I tried repairing my OBC and got as far as that the warning lights in rhe dashboard disappeared but still the same fault. Hear a short wift of the fan, then the charger returns in ready mode.
Deleted faultcodes but i dont think they are related to the charger.
Sort of given up on this attempt
Now my question is: i might be able to buy an OBC from a car from the same year, slightely different partnumber but that is maybe because it's from a miev and i have an ion.
Would it be possible to just mount the circuit boards into the old housing to ungo demounting the housing?

 

[kiev]

Would it be possible to just mount the circuit boards into the old housing to ungo demounting the housing?

Yes

 

[HenriFred]

Yes

Thanks!

 

[HenriFred]

Plan B or is it D allready

I tried repairing my OBC and got as far as that the warning lights in rhe dashboard disappeared but still the same fault. Hear a short wift of the fan, then the charger returns in ready mode.
Deleted faultcodes but i dont think they are related to the charger.
Sort of given up on this attempt
Now my question is: i might be able to buy an OBC from a car from the same year, slightely different partnumber but that is maybe because it's from a miev and i have an ion.
Would it be possible to just mount the circuit boards into the old housing to ungo demounting the housing?

Just a thought about OBC

I was wondering. Since it is nearly impossible here in Norway to find a used OBC and the prices are insane if one is available. Could it be possible to use for example an OBC of a Nissan Leaf?

 

[MickeyS70]

.
Deleted faultcodes but i dont think they are related to the charger.

What other codes are you getting as for example HV battery related faults will prevent charging?

 

[HenriFred]

What other codes are you getting as for example HV battery related faults will prevent charging?

Thanks, i will look it up. Stumbling a bit with my new obd reader

 

[coulomb]

Could it be possible to use for example an OBC of a Nissan Leaf?

No. They are made by the same company (Nichicon), and there are some similarities in parts, but wildly different case, and almost certainly all the CAN bus codes will be different.

 

[HenriFred]

Thanks, i will look it up. Stumbling a bit with my new obd reader

Passes all battery tests, no faultcodes marking the OBC.
Still no charging.

 

[HenriFred]

Thanks, i will look it up. Stumbling a bit with my new obd reader

The strange thing is that i don't get faultcodes now naming the batteries or OBC.

 

[HenriFred]

The two capacitors are in parallel. The two closest leads connect, and the two outer ones. I'm pretty sure you can find where the capacitors connect to elsewhere, without having to access the under side of the board (and hence desolder 72 pins to the Waffle Board™). So no need to discard the old OBC.

Oh wait, unless you caused a short circuit with the damage. You don't want that high DC voltage arcing over.

I shorted the 2 inner legs and the 2 outer legs. i'm wondering if i now have the capacitors connected parallell and could that be the reason i still can't charge?

 

[MickeyS70]

The strange thing is that i don't get faultcodes now naming the batteries or OBC.

Is that because there are none or your dongle doesn’t connect properly, i.e. do you get any useful info otherwise?
The OBC is only ‘talking’ on the CAN bus when it’s actively charging or failing to do so

Btw, does the red cable connected light come on when you just plug in a type 1 connector with the other side of the cable disconnected (or EVSE turned off if it’s tethered)?

I shorted the 2 inner legs and the 2 outer legs. i'm wondering if i now have the capacitors connected parallell and could that be the reason i still can't charge?

What you describe is physically connecting two capacitors in parallel, but in electrical terms that actually puts them in series (doubles the capacity) @coulomb is that what you meant?

 

[HenriFred]

Is that because there are none or your dongle doesn’t connect properly, i.e. do you get any useful info otherwise?
The OBC is only ‘talking’ on the CAN bus when it’s actively charging or failing to do so

Btw, does the red cable connected light come on when you just plug in a type 1 connector with the other side of the cable disconnected (or EVSE turned off if it’s tethered)?

What you describe is physically connecting two capacitors in parallel, but in electrical terms that actually puts them in series (doubles the capacity) @coulomb is that what you meant?

That is what i meant, i wondered if such a parallel configuration might cause the charger to opt out?
I do get some sensible information of the obd. It senses when the charger is plugged in but i cant see if it measures current. When i turn on the ignition the charger lights up the orange charge led and the red charging light on the dash blinks but I'm not sure if it charges since i dont hear the cooling fans kick in.
You mean if the read light on the dashboard loghts if the connector on the car is in but not in the socket?

 

[coulomb]

What you describe is physically connecting two capacitors in parallel, but in electrical terms that actually puts them in series (doubles the capacity) @coulomb is that what you meant?

? Two capacitors in parallel results in double the capacitance of one.

The two capacitors are meant to be in parallel; they are C121 and C122:


On the horrible daughter board with SMD capacitors, those are in some sort of series-parallel arrangement, but the reliability of those is so low that they should be replaced on sight with two "M&M" capacitors (preferably 3 kV voltage rated types, minimum 2 kV).

My guess for why they blow so frequently is the pair of inductors just past them. Something interrupts the current flow quickly (e.g. the 20 A fuse in the motor controller blows), and the energy from those two inductors goes mostly to those two capacitors. The instantaneous voltage could well be in the kilovolt range. Thinking about this, it's a good thing that these relatively cheap and accessible parts die, saving the way more expensive and near impossible to replace IGBTs and diodes.

 

[MickeyS70]

You mean if the read light on the dashboard loghts if the connector on the car is in but not in the socket?

Yes, there are resistors in the plug that the EV-ECU uses to detect a charging cable, if there is an issue within, the car won’t charge, seems to be OK in your case though.

On the other hand did you try with a different EVSE, not the first time a granny turned out to be faulty?

 

[HenriFred]

That would be very disapointing, i don't have a spare charger though. Any possibility to check if the charger is faulty by measuring?