Search results

I'll add another factor which needs to be considered - RUST Imievs (USA or EU spec) were built on a JDM assembly line and they didn't get the level of rust protection regarded as normal. A lot of the critical rust is hidden by the battery back and therefore only seen once that's removed In a...

LEV50 firmware is more conservative than that for LEV50N (The newer cells have much higher current and temperature tolerances), so LEV50Ns would work safely in an older car (albeit not necessarily at maximum charge/discharge rates) It's the other way around that's dangerous and could possibly...

BEV2 format cells are used in the BMW i3 (NB: WITHOUT bolts) at much higher capacity, however the chemistry is quite different - meaning you would have to change out the entire pack, work out a way of interfacing/interconnecting each cell (heavy duty spot welder?) _and_ hack on the BMU At that...

The sensor for this is easily accessible at the front of the car. It would be simple enough to hit it with a heat gun and/or cooling spray to check calibration and what PIDs change whilst this is happening (My car is a 2012 Pugeot Ion)

There are a bunch of threads on HV leakage in the AC compressor causing shutdowns TL;DR: the lid to the electronics section of the compressor allows some water in. You can solve the issue by opening, dewatering and then resealing This can be done without disconnecting the compressor lines...

Decent kits also have a clearcoat. You absolutely need this as the final step to avoid what you've run into

The code is in the last page of the owners manual - if you still have the manual

Most reputable shops will pull down the entire system to verify it can hold a vacuum and usually change out the schrader valves (these have a tendency to leak with age). They end up measuring the amount recovered as part of that process

Even if you don't _have_ the remote, the connectors are there I'm slowly working on this issue and will post a howto if I ever get it finished

looking at the circuit diagrams, the remote module also sends out switched signals for heating/cooling If you've got an OVMS it should be possible to replicate these

Check that power is getting to the antenna amplifier If it is, then test reception using a 76cm (1/4 wave) piece of wire attached directly to the antenna socket inner pin and see how it compares to the roof antenna If they're roughly the same then the odds are that the RF amplifer has failed...

Are you aware of the W3c validator? (W3C == html standards committee) It's a brilliant resource for ensuring your site displays correctly in _ALL_ standards-compliant browsers https://validator.w3.org/ should be the first stop for sanity checking

Secondlife don't anymore and LEV50s are rare as the proverbial hens' teeth. Many older vehicles are failing even with low milage due to a couple of cells in the pack being dead (in my case it was about half the pack needing replacements, but only 5 were "dead" initially) It looks like the real...

For EU vehicles The PSA quadlock wiring is pretty weird What I've worked out so far for cars using the Pioneer DEH-1807-ZC In the upper part of the Quadlock: This is a RHD car. The colours may change on LHD Part A Pin 1-8 are standard speaker wires 1-5=RR +- 2-6=RF +- 3-7=LF +- 4-8=LR +-...

For minimum damage (if you have an assistant) Use a magnet to pull on the door while the lever is pulled inside the car. Failing that, a thin piece of plastic hooked under the door will work (cables break, but that's _rare_. It's most usually the door spring having failed inside the cavity - a...

I was going to say the same about Kolyandex - but it may be that sufficient payment would persuade him to publish what he knows From his point of view it shouldn't be a high risk. Those who want to hack on the things will improve the code and he can still sell his software to load those...

If anyone has the time and inclination, I'd really like to try and find out what signals are being passed onto the canbus, etc when the remote is used The antenna module connects to another ECU down in the footwell with a 16 pin connector (B-125) and I suspect that with appropriate wizardry an...

How far did you get with this Franciso? I've been getting occasional error messages about cruise control lines being low (the steering wheel resistor lines) - which is odd because they're not connected. That makes me wonder if the code is in the EV-ECU (or elsewhere) and pins simply need...

Adding to this... After going through the circuit diagram it looks like the best (and safest) way of achieving this is to control CHGB output from EV-ECU or alternatively to interrupt the output of the onboard charger relay by putting a NC relay in series with it between connector A-06X pin1 /...