Can't Open J1772 Port

[Phximiev]

Anybody have any idea how to open the J1772 port on the right side of the car when its stuck?

We've pulled the J1772 release under the steering wheel and nothing happens. It appears to be stuck. The port remains shut and locked.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[JoeS]

First, hopefully you feel a little resistance when you pull the latch, indicating the wire is being pulled. I would first try a two-person operation: one pulling the latch while the second tries tapping or very gently prying on the cover - remember, it's the aft end that flips outward. I would not force anything!

If you feel no resistance as you pull the latch, I'd start first looking at the handle.

I unsuccessfully tried taking a photo of the latch mechanism, but will try sussing it out later today. - anyone?

Good luck!

 

[Phximiev]

We have resistance. We tried the two person operation without success.

Any further suggestions?

 

[Don]

If you remove the black plastic cover inside the car, there's about a 2" hole in the silver metal and if you move the insulation a bit with a long screwdriver, you can see the inside part of the cable release mechanism - If you pull the dash lever, you can see the cable that retracts the release pin for the charge port door move back and forth . . . . if your cable is still intact

If worse came to worse, it looks like you could probably lift the cable end fitting up, out of the plastic piece that holds it there . . . . and then you could pull on the cable sheath to further retract the release pin and that *should* open the door

Maybe . . . . the arm welded to the inside of the door got bent a bit somehow and that's why retracting the pin by the normal amount isn't enough to release the door anymore?? Do you remember any 'issue' the last time you had the door open??

Looking at the opened door and that arm, it looks like it *might* be possible to bend it back a little if you had something strong enough which would still fit in the crack of the closed door . . . . but it would sure be easier if you can somehow get the door open and troubleshoot it from there

Good luck!

Don

 

[Phximiev]

Thanks.

 

[JoeS]

Ok, finally had a chance to look at it. Looks promising.

First off, the latch is nothing more than a spring-loaded pin that gets pulled back. nothing you can do with the port lid closed. Need to tackle it from the inside of the car.

As Don mentioned, when you remove the small plastic cover, that gives you access to the backside of the charging port. What you will see is a contoured plate that is held on with a number of bolts (four that I could see). I *think* if you remove those bolts that will allow you to remove that plate and hopefully provide access to the back of charging port area from the inside of the car. Perhaps first remove the whole plastic cover over that right rear, as that will give you easy access to those bolts and plate; however, even without removing that large cover, it looks as though those four bolts should be reachable (just don't drop one).

Do let us know how it goes.

 

[Phximiev]

Taking off the panel and plate showed it was a broken charge port spring; replaced at Mark Mitsubishi.

Cost $70.00 for labor, $2.99 for the spring!

Far easier for the tech to complete.

Thanks for all the help!

 

[stoatwblr]

Anybody have any idea how to open the J1772 port on the right side of the car when its stuck?

For minimum damage (if you have an assistant)

Use a magnet to pull on the door while the lever is pulled inside the car. Failing that, a thin piece of plastic hooked under the door will work

(cables break, but that's _rare_. It's most usually the door spring having failed inside the cavity - a new spring will make the door "fly" fully open and as they age the doors progressively open less and less. If it's only opening a couple cm, then replace it now, BEFORE it fails)

Once the door is open, a piece of foam jammed under the door should be enough to make it pop open until you can replace the spring (it is a common spring for almost all mitsubishi fuel doors and is clipped onto the radius arm of the door)

If one is gone, the other side will be on its way out. Replace them both.

The working one will give you a template for installing the spring on the broken side (they fall out when they fail, so you probably won't see where it came from without knowing where to look)

Spring prices range from $2-20 depending where you buy. (Mitsubishi dealers are usually cheapest but if you have to pay postage, they end up very expensive) - part number MR970563

The springs are nearly impossible to remove intact from old cars (the plastic clip shatters if you try - or attempt to adjust tension on a door which is barely opening), so just buy a new one