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Your voltages are still too high for Hobdrive, SoC 0% with your old cells is around 3V. Because of the capacity mismatch SoC 0% of the new cell is @ 3.7V, which won’t work. Drain the battery to 0% SoC again then turn off the car. Disconnect the 12V aux for a minute and reconnect, this should...

That’s one of the assumptions that has turned out to be wrong, a stock BMU cannot ‘learn’ the capacity of NMC cells. Best you can do is to set it manually to 45Ah using MUT3/Diagbox (battery replacement function) You’re right in the sense that this will indeed extend the life of the NMC cells.

Although your 2012 BMU is optimised for LEV50 cells, it’s regarded as safe to use it with LEV50Ns (different story the other way round) It’s a known fact that if you run a pack with mixed capacity cells, equal balancing isn’t possible. A 2018 C-Zero will most likely have the BMU inside the...

Well done. It’s not the new cells that you need to worry about; they will always outperform the remaining ones and therefore remain imbalanced. Unfortunately the experience of others that have replaced individual cells into a degraded pack isn’t promising, most agreed that they should have...

No, the low voltage protection will keep the cells in the ‘green’ Correct, the BMU calculates with the old battery’s capacity which doesn’t match the new one’s voltage levels

There are plenty of instructions/youtube videos out there that allow even lay people to successfully install Diagbox. From what I can gather you seem to be the only one to have MUT-3/Openport clone combination working reliably. I fully agree that MUT3 is the ‘gold standard’ for an I-MIEV, but...

Yes, that’s the easiest way to use the battery function in Hobdrive as the battery voltage needs to be below a certain level (can’t remember what exactly).

So which wire would one use for the ‘illumination’?

The current problem seems to be P1B30 (Battery cell status signals transmitted via CAN differs between the EV-ECU and the BMU). Makes sense, as the EV-ECU doesn’t know you swapped the battery, strange though, that it worked the other way around, maybe the firmware is happy if there are more...

P1A44 is a ground fault and is usually caused by water/condensation in the AC compressor, but this seems to be an old (archived) fault. However B1105 is also AC compressor related and appears to be currently active. Best try a clear the faults first, then follow @kiev ’s advice in post below...

Hello and welcome to the forum Afaik the illumination ‘signal’ is just a 12V (usually orange or white wire) that is active when the lights are turned on I’ve recently replaced my stock radio in an 2011 built IMIEV (literally plug and play) and sure enough it dims the display when the lights...

My Vgate works with HobDrive (paid version), setup isn’t intuitiv, follow @Rational ’s video for guidance (post #6 above). It can also be used with OBDZero but no joy with CarScanner/Canion..

If it was built in 2012 then they are most likely green also. Yes, LTO cells have lower voltage levels. This just means that the BMU’s stored capacity value doesn’t match with what is measured using coulomb counting method, a battery calibration will take care of this, but first you need to...

Ok, the car stops charging once a cell reaches 4.1V, so there is still a bit to go. Not saying it doesn’t work with iOS but I never had any success as I only had Bluetooth dongles and seemingly an iPhone requires a Wi-Fi connection, but if all else fails, try Android via Bluetooth You could...

Horses for courses, not everyone wants to mod the BMU, some folks are perfectly happy to follow some simple online videos to just read out and clear DTCs with an old Android phone…

There are 88 (10x8 & 2x4) modules in a 16kWh pack, therefore not all of them could be 32V? Without DTCs my best guess it that the voltages read stable when idle but fluctuate when charging and therefore stopping the process ( @alviseven has had a similar issue which was caused by a faulty CMU)...

HobDrive (paid version) is known to work with almost every dongle, setup is a bit tricky, but @Rational ’s videos in post #9 should make it easy for you: https://myimiev.com/threads/smartphone-tablet-apps-for-i-miev-c-zero-and-ion.4936/

The same applies for any batteries, new or used doesn’t matter. IMHO there is a good chance that you’ll end up paying €€€ and receiving nothing in the end. …there seems to be a shortage of these cells, currently. Not really; LEV50N cells are degrading at around half the rate of the original...

I’ve observed the same, there doesn’t seem to be a balancing option in Diagbox, therefore assuming that it doesn’t exist in MUT3 either. But HobDrive has a ‘cell smoothing’ screen, although it seems more miss than hit trying to get it to work.

The physical placement of the chip seems irrelevant and pinout can be seen in post # 473? Folks either ‘fix’ the hybrid board with the resistor trick or replace it with the (now obsolete) AD202, doubt many have kept the faulty one as a souvenir. Looks like you’re the first to try the...