Wheels, Rims, and Tires

[tomrh]

I bought the Sento Mits rims and have used them for a couple of weeks now. They are just perfect for 155 and 185 tyre width.

We would all love to see a picture of the car with the new wheels.

Bigger picture: http://oi59.tinypic.com/200agk6.jpg
Rear wheel closeup: http://oi62.tinypic.com/2nid1du.jpg

 

[Don]

Very NICE looking wheels!!

Can you enlighten us as to about how much they weigh . . . . and how much they cost?

Don

 

[tomrh]

Very NICE looking wheels!!

Can you enlighten us as to about how much they weigh . . . . and how much they cost?

Thanks. Weighing is a bit difficult now since the rims have tyres on while mounted on the car. Anyway I'll weigh them (with tyres) as soon as I switch to summer tyres within a couple of weeks.

I googled and found that these are chinese rims. The Sento and Trinity brands are sold by a norwegian tyre wholesaler called Norgesdekk, they inform that the rims are produced in China (exclusively?) for them while they assure the quality for norwegian customers. I could not find these rims offered in other countries, but I think they might be sold elsewhere, probably relabeled with a different brand name (as would be typical chinese). In Norway these cost about $100 a rim which is considered "cheap" here (bear in mind that Norway is one of the most expensive countries in the world).

These are the only rims I've found so far which are wider than the originals and which are especially made to fit. The fronts are 4.5" ET38, there is only a couple of millimeters clearance between the rim and and the McPherson strut.

 

[tomrh]

There are also some MAK rims that could fit. In "our" bolt circle 4x100, MAK Zenith Hyper Silver comes in 5x15 ET38 and 5.5x15 ET36 (among others), having a center bore of 60 mm.

Based on my experience with the Sento rims, the fronts would maybe be a millimeter or two too wide. So one could either shave off a tiny amount of the McPherson strut or simply use thin spacers, 3 mm would probably suffice. Last autumn I put on 5 mm spacers and drove for some weeks just to get the feel of "wider rims". It has a great positive impact on stability, at least for the EU version of i-MiEV which is 10 cm narrower than the US version. But use of spacers is not legal for the i-MiEV, at least not in Norway, that's why I chose the Sentos.

 

[GdB]

JoeS, be careful going over the maximum load pressure. I got a staple in a rear tire and before getting it fixed I looked up your tire to see the price and psi rating. They are 51psi. That is the pressure the tire is best able to withstand the rated load with high ambient temperature. Unfortunately this is not commonly understood and manufacturers always encourage lower pressures for comfort instead making a softer suspension. Less pressure increases heat buildup which reduced rubber strength. I always inflate to the maximum load pressure for safety, handling, and economy.

STATUS UPDATE
It's been over a year and 13,000miles since I installed the Yokohama ENVigors on my original i-MiEV. The mileage has improved a bit, with full-charge RR now in the low-70's (the car has over 36,000 miles on it). Front tire wear appears to be significant (I haven't measured). Been running them at 60psi for at least six months. For anyone who says the i-MiEV doesn't handle well, I'll be happy to take them for a ride... hmmm, perhaps I should figure out YouTube and post my HD dashcam typical drive home.

 

[tomrh]

A link to a norwegian page w/rims for the i-MiEV:
http://elbilforum.no/forum/index.php/topic,20238.msg338416.html#msg338416

 

[dom]

Do someone knows where we can order from canada. I did many phone and émails and didn't fin any wheels for my new Miev. I guess I will just put some good looking plastic hubcap.

http://www.alpena.ca///MEDSImages/1-58259-36/100.jpg

 

[JoeS]

dom, if I may suggest that for the i-miev looks should take a back seat to aerodynamic efficiency. Perhaps moon discs?
http://myimiev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4183#p4183
(Some of us consider fender skirts and moon discs attractive )
http://myimiev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=14686#p14686

 

[GdB]

dom, if I may suggest that for the i-miev looks should take a back seat to aerodynamic efficiency. Perhaps moon discs?
http://myimiev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4183#p4183
(Some of us consider fender skirts and moon discs attractive )
http://myimiev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=14686#p14686

There are big gains in range to be had from reducing wheel drag.
Consider that the top of the wheel is moving at double speed. Extra power from drag rises with speed cubed.

Look at the world's fastest bicycle competition for the optimum design.

 

[tomrh]

I found a tire with a very low rolling resistance: Toyo NanoEnergy 2 in 185/55-15.
See http://www.toyotires.eu/tire/pattern/nanoenergy-2
This tire gets an A grade for rolling resistance according to the EU tire labeling system, that means RRC <= 6,5.
For comparison my i-MiEV was delivered with Dunlop Enasave 2030 in 175/55-15, getting a C grade only (7,8 <= RRC <= 9,0), most probably at the lower end of the RRC interval since I've tried some other C grade tires which offered a shorter driving range.

I've ordered a couple of tires for the rear from Germany and expect delivery at the end of next week, I'm very eager to see any improvements and I'll post an update later on.

(btw - I'm currently using Pirelli Cinturato P1 Verde in 155/60-15 for the fronts).

 

[GdB]

I found a tire with a very low rolling resistance: Toyo NanoEnergy 2 in 185/55-15.
See http://www.toyotires.eu/tire/pattern/nanoenergy-2
This tire gets an A grade for rolling resistance according to the EU tire labeling system, that means RRC <= 6,5.
For comparison my i-MiEV was delivered with Dunlop Enasave 2030 in 175/55-15, getting a C grade only (7,8 <= RRC <= 9,0), most probably at the lower end of the RRC interval since I've tried some other C grade tires which offered a shorter driving range.

I've ordered a couple of tires for the rear from Germany and expect delivery at the end of next week, I'm very eager to see any improvements and I'll post an update later on.

(btw - I'm currently using Pirelli Cinturato P1 Verde in 155/60-15 for the fronts).

Tire rack request

This is not available in the US. I only checked the size you mentioned. Is it available in the size for the front also?

Maybe if enough people express interest we can get Tire Rack to order a small quantity.

We can do a Tire Rack request
http://www.tirerack.com/about/contact_form.jsp

Perhaps another thread for a vote?

 

[jray3]

I really like the look/theory of that tread pattern from a noise, RR and treadlife point of view, and advanced compounds can do wonders for wet traction, plus the wide grooves between the longitudinal ribs have plenty of space to hold water without having to pump it sideways. However, the lack of horizontal grooves makes me suspect very poor traction in mud or snow.
Perfect, as I never see mud and now have an unused but mounted set of snow tires!

After a quick check, I haven't found any mfr's noise data on our EnaSaves, which is one of my biggest gripes about the OEM tires, and something that I've come to accept as inevitable with LRR tires... Anybody have info to compare the EnaSaves against the claimed 70 decibels for this Toyo NanoEnergy2?

http://www.dunloptires.com/en-US/tires/search/2012_Mitsubishi_i~-MiEV_SE does not even list our stock tires!

Your online search did not return any relevant results. Please try your search again. If you prefer, a Dunlop expert at a Tire & Service Network Location can help you find tires that fit your vehicle.

2012 Mitsubishi i-MiEV SE
Tire Size: Front: 145/65R15 Rear: 175/60R15

 

[tomrh]

I found a tire with a very low rolling resistance: Toyo NanoEnergy 2 in 185/55-15.
See http://www.toyotires.eu/tire/pattern/nanoenergy-2

This is not available in the US. I only checked the size you mentioned. Is it available in the size for the front also?

No, only the rear. But the rear tires have a larger impact on the overall rolling resistance.

The Pirelli fronts I mentioned are the only ones available here having a C grade RRC in 155/60-15 (also imported from Germany), the rest have E or worse. Imo it's necessary w/155 front if using 185 rear or else the car feels more unstable. A combo with 155 front and 175 rear is also great, used that last summer.

Since I also bought 4,5" front rims (now in use for my winter tires), I could even use 165/60-15 as well but I've not found anything worth buying in that size.

 

[JoeS]

The unavailable Toyos look encouraging from a LRR standpoint. I'll be in the market for eight tires by the time next winter rolls around. The Yokohamas are proving no better in treadwear than the OEM Dunlop EnaSaves.

Perhaps it has something to do with the road I drive daily - a portion of it shown here with a Lotus enjoying it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VhfHckV8aBU

Don't waste your time watching this bicyclist's video (with a cool display of his metrics) unless you can jump to 9:00, as the last part of this video shows the interesting portion of the rest of my drive (I couldn't find a video showing a cyclist roaring down this hill).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=betJleF4VEo

 

[tigger19687]

Wow Joe, must be very dangerous to drive on when the bikes are on it. Very thin road !

That road looks relatively smooth. Why are your tires being chewed up fast ?

Also how much battery do you use on the way home (up hill)

 

[JoeS]

Wow Joe, must be very dangerous to drive on when the bikes are on it. Very thin road !

Yes, it's a narrow road but the locals are very adept at nicely passing the cyclists giving them a wide berth by safely crossing the double line (everybody does it, including the Sheriff). Last year a California law was passed which mandates keeping three feet away from a cyclist and unfortunately they also publicized that it is illegal to go over the double line, so now you get 'tourists' who sit behind a bike rider for miles refusing to pass them... and the cyclists are also upset because they don't want to pull over every few hundred yards. Incidentally, that bike rider in that second video is awesome! I ride my bike on the lower portion of that road weekly, and it's a 45-minute round trip to town for me just to pick up something at the grocery store - but it's a great workout.

That road looks relatively smooth. Why are your tires being chewed up fast ?

That video of the cyclist was made just after they freshly-resurfaced the road (they haven't even put the Botts Dots in place). That asphalt surface chip coating is actually quite rough now - you can easily hear bicycles coming when you're walking. Like I keep saying, I have no problem with my i-MiEV hugging the road. :roll:

Also how much battery do you use on the way home (up hill)

Two bars for the four miles up from town (using the route the cyclist took) and there are plenty of charging stations in Los Altos if needbe. Going the route shown in the first video, it's at least three bars. Going down hill I coast and use all varieties of regen. Perhaps now you understand why I consider being able to easily modulate regen as well as having high regen as important.

Sorry, really got off-topic.

 

[mikhill]

Www.tyretraders.com
has the original tires listed with specifications.
After looking at alternatives I choose the replace front tires with the esave 2030 this time as no of the others stated they were LRR tires. I will be interested in the results as the rear tires will requir replacement soon.

 

[Don]

The Yokohamas are proving no better in treadwear than the OEM Dunlop EnaSaves.

Perhaps it has something to do with the road I drive daily

No doubt - Either the road or the driver (likely a combination of both) because our original Ensaves on the rear are no where near their half life after 26,000 miles - Sticking a Lincoln penny in the tread, it goes in about to his eyes. I wouldn't be at all surprised that we get 50K+ out of the original tires.

I replaced both front tires about 15K ago with Continental EcoContacts when I blew a hole in a sidewall after hitting a piece of pavement which had fallen out of a dump truck. The Continentals were the only tire our local dealer could get me that same day and the price was reasonable ($85) They still look essentially new . . . . I can't measure any wear on them at all

In my experience, the car understeers so badly executing even a medium speed corner that I just don't press it in the corners anymore

Don

 

[JoeS]

..In my experience, the car understeers so badly executing even a medium speed corner that I just don't press it in the corners anymore

Ah, you mean I'm supposed to slow down for corners? :shock: Having driven my severely-understeering 1967 Saab for most of my life, understeer doesn't bother me at all. Quite frankly, in comparison, I consider the i-MiEV as quite neutral - but perhaps that's because I run my tires at 60psi. I've almost never heard the tires 'squeal', no matter how hard I push the darn thing - has anyone? The chattering ASC/ABS usually kicks in to remind me to play nice. BTW, unlike my i-MiEV, I replaced the original tires on my Gen1 Honda Insight at 70K miles, because of their age and not their treadwear - but, in fairness, that was/is our long-distance highway car and not a daily driver.

 

[tomrh]

http://Www.tyretraders.com
has the original tires listed with specifications.
After looking at alternatives I choose the replace front tires with the esave 2030 this time as no of the others stated they were LRR tires. I will be interested in the results as the rear tires will requir replacement soon.

Tirerack offers 185-tires having a lower RRC than Enasave: Bridgestone Ecopia EP150
In Europe these get a B grade for rolling resistance while the Enasaves get a C. Not as good as Toyo NanoEnergy but still better.

But having already selected 145 for the front tires, I would choose 175 for the rear. One should use 155 in combo with 185 to preserve the weight load ratio for stability.