Warning Codes - Car with ! Exclamation Mark

[Lena]

I'm wondering who knows how to clear codes on the Mistubishi MiEV.
The car with the exclamation mark happened to me. Even though there's a Mitsubishi dealer near me, they aren't trained in the MiEV.
Had a friend of mine try to read the code and it didn't work.
I had to have the car towed a 100 miles away and they said that they cleared out the code and it didn't come up again.
Trying to learn how to clear out the code myself if needed again.
Thanks,
Lena

 

[JoeS]

Lena, welcome to the forum. In addition to a genuine Mitsubishi dedicated computer and software called MUT3 which is expensive and not readily available, there are a number of alternatives available.

I purchased something called "iCarsoft Mitsubishi/Mazda i909 Multi-System Scanner OBDII Vehicle Diagnostic Tool" which reads codes and has a reset capability, but not for all faults; for example, I don't believe it resets an airbag fault indicator.

There are also a number of apps mentioned on this forum - perhaps others can comment which ones can perform a reset?

 

[kiev]

Just clearing the code doesn't fix the problem--the question is, what was the issue that caused the code and triggered the HighVoltage Warning Light? Hopefully the service report will identify what code they found and you can post it here in your thread.

My first guess and item to check would be the condition of the 12V battery. It is likely at least 5 years old, which is quite a long life unless periodic float charging was performed. A weak, old or worn out 12V battery will cause a multitude of issues and throw numerous codes.

i have used the iCarsoft i909 to read and reset DTCs, ordered it online for a little over $100. It is a handy tool and paid for itself in avoiding dealer service visits. It works with the 2012, never tried with a 2014, so check to be sure it will work with your car. There is a new model NHM that might cover the later cars and have more features.

 

[Lena]

Should have included more backstory...
So, when this happened, the dealership told me that the problem was in the MCU unit. Which was 1 month out of warranty and $6500 for parts alone.
They also told me that they took apart a few connections, cleaned them and the light didn't come on again.
I don't think it was the cleaning that fixed it because the voltage (not) coming through was practically zero, not diminished.
I'm guessing that they disconnected the high voltage system and let the capacitors 'reset' themselves.
But that the code can still disable the car. That's why I want to learn to do it myself.

I can't afford the repair. I bought this car used and got a really good deal. So, I have to do what I can to keep it running.

My guess is that the MCU Unit overheated. I have researched how to take good care of these batteries (charge at night in the summer and during the day in the winter to avoid temp extremes, don't let it sit in a full state of charge, etc.). And this particular time I did something different. It was a fairly hot day. I had a longish drive and wanted to make sure I had enough fuel, so I charged it and immediately drove it, at higher speeds than normal, and then parked in a place that had probably been sitting in the sun for a good bit of the day. When I came out, the light was on and it wouldn't start.

But that's within normal expectations of how I should be able to use my car. Even if I avoid those specifics, it could get progressively worse and I need to prepare for this to become a thing I have to deal with.

 

[Lena]

Hi Joe. Thanks for the welcome.
I have looked at the iCarsoft i909 that you mentioned, and sent them an email to find out if it would work on the MCU related warning, which is what the dealership told me mine was. The owner's manual says that the car! warning is for the Electric Motor Unit.

My hesitation was that the iCarsoft lists the systems that it works on and, of course, they were more oriented towards a gasoline powered vehicle. I didn't know if it would work on a Mitsubishi system that is only part of electric vehicles.
Lena

Lena, welcome to the forum. In addition to a genuine Mitsubishi dedicated computer and software called MUT3 which is expensive and not readily available, there are a number of alternatives available.

I purchased something called "iCarsoft Mitsubishi/Mazda i909 Multi-System Scanner OBDII Vehicle Diagnostic Tool" which reads codes and has a reset capability, but not for all faults; for example, I don't believe it resets an airbag fault indicator.

There are also a number of apps mentioned on this forum - perhaps others can comment which ones can perform a reset?

 

[kiev]

Troubleshooting that ended with a result that the MCU is bad would need to start with some code stored in the EVECU. The dealer service dept should have the MUT device for reading trouble codes and providing steps to narrow it down. Ask them to provide you the codes that were discovered.

Is your 12V battery the original that came with the car, or when was it replaced? If it is the OEM then there is a very high probability that the issue is the 12V and not the MCU. We have seen this happen numerous times on this forum, plus even across other electric cars--leaaf and tesla, etc.

Take it to an auto part store that will test your battery and in some cases install the replacement if needed.

 

[Lena]

I called the dealership they said it was code T(one)A(one)(five) - T1A15
I have been looking at the iCarsoft model but not sure of NHM. Is that a brand name?

Just clearing the code doesn't fix the problem--the question is, what was the issue that caused the code and triggered the HighVoltage Warning Light? Hopefully the service report will identify what code they found and you can post it here in your thread.

My first guess and item to check would be the condition of the 12V battery. It is likely at least 5 years old, which is quite a long life unless periodic float charging was performed. A weak, old or worn out 12V battery will cause a multitude of issues and throw numerous codes.

i have used the iCarsoft i909 to read and reset DTCs, ordered it online for a little over $100. It is a handy tool and paid for itself in avoiding dealer service visits. It works with the 2012, never tried with a 2014, so check to be sure it will work with your car. There is a new model NHM that might cover the later cars and have more features.

 

[Lena]

Good idea, taking the batter to the auto parts store. When it was towed, they did check the 12V, but I don't think they did it under a test load, as has been mentioned in other posts.
I called the dealership. The code they retrieved was T1A15 - T(one)A(one)(five)

Troubleshooting that ended with a result that the MCU is bad would need to start with some code stored in the EVECU. The dealer service dept should have the MUT device for reading trouble codes and providing steps to narrow it down. Ask them to provide you the codes that were discovered.

Is your 12V battery the original that came with the car, or when was it replaced? If it is the OEM then there is a very high probability that the issue is the 12V and not the MCU. We have seen this happen numerous times on this forum, plus even across other electric cars--leaaf and tesla, etc.

Take it to an auto part store that will test your battery and in some cases install the replacement if needed.

 

[Lena]

The people from iCarsoft were kind enough to send me a chart showing which systems it will give info, read code, clear code and data stream. The MCU and the EV-ECU are on that list, so I'm going to get one.

 

[kiev]

Thanks for getting the code, we have seen this numerous times on the forum, it is P1A15. There are no trouble codes that start with a "T", but they sound the same. Here are troubleshooting notes for this code taken from the Factory Service Manual, which calls the MCU the EMCU.

P1A15 is High-Voltage System Error #1

Description of how the system operates:
The high-voltage circuit activation and shutdown are controlled by the EV-ECU. The EV-ECU also monitors the voltage of the smoothing condenser [a big black capacitor] in the EMCU via the CAN communication.

How does this code get set?
If the charging time of the smoothing condenser in the EMCU exceeds a specified time, the diagnosis code No. P1A15 will be set. That is to say, if it is taking too long for the capacitor to charge up to the full level, which is equal to the voltage of the pack. Or if the measurement value reported by the sensing circuit indicates that the the capacitor voltage is taking too long, then it will throw this code.

Probable Causes in the service manual include:
1. Damaged wiring harness or connector(s)
2. Malfunction of the high-voltage fuse No.1 (Main, 280A) (inside the main battery assembly, accessible)
3. Malfunction of the main battery assembly (possibly damaged contacts of main relays, aka contactors)
4. Malfunction of the EMCU


As you can see they don't list a 5th cause, a weak, old or worn out 12V battery, but we have seen that code appear due to 12V battery issues. That is why i recommend to check and verify the 12V first to rule it out.

There are several threads about the P1A15 code that go into technical detail about repairing the circuit board or replacing the MCU with a salvaged unit for much le$$. You can find those by searching "P1A15" if you are interested and have time to read.

Since your car runs and drives with the code cleared, then it means your MCU is not permanently damaged--electronics don't heal themselves when broken. But it could have some degraded components, especially since you mentioned that high ambient temperatures were involved. One member had this code occur and found it was related to temperature.

That code does not permanently disable starting the car, if you re-try to start after removing the key and the capacitor value reaches the expected value, then the car will go to READY and the HV (!) light will go out.

 

[Lena]

Thanks, Kenny. Super helpful. I'll keep learning more.

 

[Lena]

Oh, and ...my car definitely wouldn't start again after that code popped up. Even a few days later. I tried it again before I had it towed to the dealership.
Okay, back to reading the other p1a15 posts.

 

[bobsouth]

The "car with the exclamation mark" showed up on our non functioning work iMiev which had been unused for some time. .. The meter was showing about half charge but I put it on charge anyway and went home to get my mulitimeter and came back to find the 12v battery was at about 10.9v so I put it on charge as well. After a few hours it had reached about 12.5 the warning light had gone and I was able to drive the car a short distance. However soon it stopped working and the warning light came on. I will buy a new 12v battery tomorrow but more worrying was that the charge on the main battery did not appear to have increased. When I have installed the new 12v battery I will try to charge the drive battery again. I don't know if the charging system requires the 12v to be in good condition. I hope it is not permanently damaged!

 

[kiev]

Yes the 12V aux is a critical item required for driving and charging. Hopefully that is your only issue, and typically it is only a temporary fault. Let us know how it works out for you.

 

[RobbW]

What 12V battery does the iMiEV use? Is it a regular 12V battery like any other car uses? Or does the i-MiEV use some specialty 12V battery? My Meep just died last night. I had moved it from my driveway out onto the street as I had some people coming over to my house to pick up something store in the garage. Later when I went to move the Meep back to the driveway, it would not start anymore. When I turn the key to Start, the dashboard lights pop on, and there is an initial "ding" sound, but not the usual ding sound of the "Ready" state. Then the entire dash and every light in the car goes completely black, and there is a long sustained beeeeeep that keeps sounding until I turn off the car. When I turn off the car, then the MIl with the car symbol and exclamation point come on.

I assume this has something to do with the 12V battery. It is the OEM battery that has been in there for 8 years. So, probably due to be replaced anyway. I'm hoping this is the only problem as it should be quick and relatively inexpensive to replace. I just don't know what kind of 12V battery I need for an i-MiEV.

 

[kiev]

It is just a regular car 12V battery, such as 51R or 151R type number. Same sized battery is used for mazda miata except they use a gel cell instead of flooded. i got one at wolly mart once, also at any auto parts store.

 

[RobbW]

Thanks! Picked up a Diehard 151R battery and swapped it out when I got home from work. My Meep started up right away and is humming along now!

 

[PV1]

Later when I went to move the Meep back to the driveway, it would not start anymore. When I turn the key to Start, the dashboard lights pop on, and there is an initial "ding" sound, but not the usual ding sound of the "Ready" state. Then the entire dash and every light in the car goes completely black, and there is a long sustained beeeeeep that keeps sounding until I turn off the car. When I turn off the car, then the MIl with the car symbol and exclamation point come on.

When I first got Koorz, we had it at an event and accidentally left the marker lights on too long. This is the exact thing I got when the car failed to start. The battery had discharged enough to where the car couldn’t start, but everything still lit up. I charged the 12 volt battery and the car was able to start. Sadly, it required codes to be cleared to get the warning light to go away even though the car would start and drive just fine after that.

Got to keep the 12 volt battery in good health. If you can help it, don’t even try to start the car if you see signs of a low 12 volt battery. Give it a boost first. Our cars aren't as young as they used to be.

 

[RobbW]

Later when I went to move the Meep back to the driveway, it would not start anymore. When I turn the key to Start, the dashboard lights pop on, and there is an initial "ding" sound, but not the usual ding sound of the "Ready" state. Then the entire dash and every light in the car goes completely black, and there is a long sustained beeeeeep that keeps sounding until I turn off the car. When I turn off the car, then the MIl with the car symbol and exclamation point come on.

When I first got Koorz, we had it at an event and accidentally left the marker lights on too long. This is the exact thing I got when the car failed to start. The battery had discharged enough to where the car couldn’t start, but everything still lit up. I charged the 12 volt battery and the car was able to start. Sadly, it required codes to be cleared to get the warning light to go away even though the car would start and drive just fine after that.

Got to keep the 12 volt battery in good health. If you can help it, don’t even try to start the car if you see signs of a low 12 volt battery. Give it a boost first. Our cars aren't as young as they used to be.

Thanks, PV1. I got lucky and after installing the new battery, my Meep started up just fine and all the MILs cleared from the dash. All good to go now. I was just a little freaked out at first when she didn't want to start up at all. I had the main traction battery replaced last year, and I was afraid it might have something to do with that again. I'm thankful it was just the 12V battery!