Not able to drive. P1A15 error.

[BlindMoose]

With trepidation, I decided to run an experiment with the relays. So Pulled relay E and tried to start car. The instrument panel displays similar to the P1A15 error with the Yellow icar lamp on, and won't go into ready. Also throws fault codes P1B2B &U1111. So replaced E and pulled relay F. again the yellow icar lamp is illuminated, together with orange tortoise, skid, skid off, EPS, and red plug on. Also the battery display is flashing, with no bars showing, even though it is 75% full. it also threw fault codes B1731 & C1522. So replaced relay F and tried to start car. the yellow icar lamp went out at ignition, and the car went into ready. So if nothing else, it proves if there is a fault with either of these relays, then the yellow icar lamp will be on.

 

[kiev]

That's a good test, thanks for taking the risk to check out the relay effect.

Concerning the hybrid board i have not heard anything from NP.

i have been searching to identify the little 5-pin chip and found the Ricoh site helpful for searching by package type. Now i'm wondering if it might just be a little op amp such as the NJU7026 in which pin 1 the non-inverting input is just not being used, as it seems to have no connection anywhere?
Ricoh NJU7026

[probably not]
the output on pin 4 of this chip must alternate between the two supply voltages at the same time and in the opposite polarity (180 degrees phase diff) to the output of the power transformer, such that when the A&D control lines go Hi, B&C go Lo; and vice versa, in order to route an alternating inverted input thru the signal transformer. What kind of device does that--what is that thang?

 

[BlindMoose]

@Kiev

Thanks for that. Shame you've had no response from NP. I have a friend who has a pen-pal that lives in Japan. Would you like me 2c if I can get her 2 try and find out about the hybrid board?

 

[kiev]

Ha, i spoke too soon.

Good day.
This is Nihon Pulse Industry CO., Ltd.
Thank you for contacting us.

We are targeting customers who have a track record of purchasing.
Therefore, please contact us through a trading company.

We are sorry for your inconvenience.

Best regards,

So now, what is a trading company? i'm not familia with that term.

 

[BlindMoose]

@Kiev

Sounds to me like they are a manufacturer, and don't supply the public.
So probably need to find a stockist / retailer instead.
I will send an enquiry to my friends Japanese pen-pal, and see if she can provide an answer.

 

[kiev]

Thank you, that is a good idea to get some local help that can maybe explain how the business works over there. i told them i wanted to buy 10 boards but that must not be significant in their view.

 

[Eddie49]

So now, what is a trading company? i'm not familiar with that term.

I think they mean "wholesaler" - i.e. a company, not a private person, who would have a business account with them and purchase a significant volume of products.
Perhaps you could reply to them by asking if they could recommend an existing wholesale of theirs, perhaps based in USA, who deals with the general public.

 

[coulomb]

the output on pin 4 of this chip must alternate between the two supply voltages at the same time and in the opposite polarity (180 degrees phase diff) to the output of the power transformer, such that when the A&D control lines go Hi, B&C go Lo; and vice versa, in order to route an alternating inverted input thru the signal transformer. What kind of device does that--what is that thang?

I presume a full bridge would do it, with appropriate gate control logic. That's without thinking about what's needed in great detail.

 

[kiev]

i think the function of the 5-pin ic is a single gate logic chip, an inverter but with dual +/-5V power supply instead of single supply, the pinout matches such as this,
https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/sn74lvc1gu04.pdf?HQS=dis-dk-null-digikeymode-dsf-pf-null-wwe&ts=1623774813717

i was also looking at an inverting op amp, which typically have dual voltage supplies, but no match for the pinout (pin 1 has no connection to anything).

i found this when re-checking the trace and realized there is a difference between a ground pad and another pad with 0.002 Ohms to ground. The continuity beeper on the meter says they are the same, but in the circuit it matters that they are not. Commence to jigglin' yall.

 

[BlindMoose]

So 18 days later and the fault has come back again. The only thing I have done differently, is stop the car, and turn it off in gear. Selected P and the P1A15 fault returned, when I tried to start it. So left it in P released the handbrake, rocked the car on the locking pawl. Cleared the code, and the car is working again. Seems a bit odd that the gear selector could cause the problem, have to wait and see.

 

[BlindMoose]

Disaster. The car is back to, not going into ready. Cant clear the P1A15 error now. As I try to clear it the yellow icar lamp immediately comes back on. It's now only possible to clear it, provided I clear the faults in ETAC, IP & KOS systems faults first.
As an aside, I pulled both E & F relays, and tried to take fault code readings , but wasn't able to, as scanner thinks the ignition isn't on.
Plugged the relays back in and the yellow icar lamp went out. So plugged the charger in, and the car started taking a charge. Well at least the DC/DC still works. I can't believe how frustrating this is. I tested the heater, and A/C over the last 20 days, they work fine. There is nothing wrong with the car. Other than the fact it won't start . Completely out of ideas now, feel like cutting my losses and scrapping it for parts.

 

[kiev]

So 18 days later and the fault has come back again. The only thing I have done differently, is stop the car, and turn it off in gear. Selected P and the P1A15 fault returned, when I tried to start it. So left it in P released the handbrake, rocked the car on the locking pawl. Cleared the code, and the car is working again. Seems a bit odd that the gear selector could cause the problem, have to wait and see.

The gear position switch/sensor is a very important device for sure, it can and will inhibit going to READY if there is a mismatch between the two sensors. It is purely an electrical signal but is mounted in the worst possible location for water, dirt and corrosion in the rear up next to gearbox. i would pull the connector open and inspect for corrosion, clean or spray contact cleaner, inspect for signs of leakage getting past the plastic housing into the interior of the sensor body, etc. Basically inspect and clean to ensure it is in good condition and operating properly to eliminate that as a secondary cause. i think the hybrid board may be misbehaving again to generate the P1A15. Or something downstream of the hybrid?

Intermittent faults are the most difficult and frustrating to solve.

 

[BlindMoose]

Right, so stripped down the gearbox selector.

Not to bad inside, but cleaned it up anyway, and the plug contacts (they were spotless) Reinstalled it back onto car, and adjusted and lubricated linkage. All works nice a smoothly now. Except of course the car still won't go into ready. :?

 

[boothegermanshepherd]

Hi all

I'm a newbie to this forum and electric car ownership!

I have made a purchase of a non runner with the fatal P1A15 error........... the only good news its been untouched

I am yet to look into it but after reading hundreds of posts it seems that 99% of the time its a rouge fault code causing a non start, so cant this fault be deleted / mapped out?

 

[boothegermanshepherd]

So,

After making a start, no fault with the main fuse

I then disconnected the loom plug from the AC and heater, this then gave me a permanent P1A15 error which I was unable to clear. I found this strange so I reconnected both connectors and the fault could be erased until an attempt to start was made again.

So this fault code must have so many variations of symptoms that can cause it, why does it give a permanent fault, from the wiring diagram there is nothing that detects the loom plugs pulled is there? All I can see is and earth shroud from the diagram.

Any help would be appreciated

 

[BlindMoose]

Hi Noobe.

Ok, next up is to see if the DC/DC charger is working. ( the big box to the left of the MCU where you checked the main fuse) See if the car will take a charge, using the mains charging brick.

 

[boothegermanshepherd]

Thanks for the reply

The car is taking a charge OK and its showing nearly full, and we have a new battery with a battery support unit on it when i'm working on it giving 14.2V

Can you shine any light on the permanent fault when the to loom plugs to the AC and heater are disconnected?

Thanks again

 

[BlindMoose]

Unfortunately not. Presumably it shows there is nothing wrong with those two circuits. As you probably know, mine is currently dead. I did get 20 days of use by swapping the relays for the headlight ones, but currently the same permanent fault.

 

[kiev]

Welcome to the forum and sorry to hear you are having this issue.

There are several threads covering the P1A15 fault code in addition to this one, if you would like to read about the troubleshooting and repair attempts from numerous other owners. Some had been successful and others not. It is difficult and dangerous to stick meter and scope probe leads around in High Voltage circuits.

This code gets thrown if the measured value of the pack voltage in the Motor Control Unit does not come up fast enough or high enough to satisfy the EV-ECU. Here is the description from the Factory Service Manual:

The high-voltage circuit activation and shutdown are controlled by the EV-ECU. The EV-ECU also monitors the voltage of the smooth condenser in the EMCU via the CAN communication.

If the charging time of the smooth condenser in the EMCU reaches the specified time or more, the diagnosis code No. P1A15 will be set.

Possible Causes:
1. Damaged wiring harness or connector(s)
2. Malfunction of the high-voltage fuse No.1 (Main, 280A) (main battery assembly)
3. Malfunction of the main battery assembly
4. Malfunction of the EMCU

Most of the reports with intermittent operation seem to be related to the HV measurement by the ISA215 Hybrid board located in the bottom plenum of the MCU. Something gets warmed up and the measurement gets degraded.
A blown pre-charge resistor in the pack will cause this fault, but then the car won't charge either.

The MCU is coded to match the VIN of the car; we have read reports that it can be changed one time using the dealer's OBDII scan tool; also it has been reported that mucking around with recoding the VIN or clearing the DTC too many times can lock up and brick the MCU.

The AC is a critical part of the DCQC system.

 

[boothegermanshepherd]

Hi and thanks

I have read them all a couple of times before posting.

As with any fault code there has to be a logical diagnosis path but from experience I know that even at dealer level you must always be open minded and not nieve as not everything printed in black and white is correct!

As I said before this is quite a vague fault code with many different causes given by the technical information. I have only just started at the basics to diagnose this vehicle and before I go any further need to find out why when the AC and heater feeds are disconnected from the loom plugs the P1A15 error is permanent and unclearable?

Just like the main cut out, is there is bridge / switch in these loom plugs or is there an earth fault loop detection built into the loom???

From the wiring diagram it just shows the shroud being earthed in the control unit...........