My 2012 i-miev not working

[priit271]

Hello everyone,

My car(2012 i-miev) does not go to ready and does not move.
I get the yellow exclamation mark light and error codes: U1426, U1116, U1111, P1A21, P1A20, P0A44, P0A43
The gear indicator works normally.
My car fault came overnight, after charging in the garage.
First, I checked the motor connectors, but everything seemed ok.
Any ideas?

 

[kiev]

What is the age and condition of the aux/starter battery up front under the hood?
What is the voltage when the key is OFF, and then when in ACC and ON position?

An old, weak or worn out battery can cause numerous faults such as you experienced, especially the "Uxxxx" codes which are due to lack of communication on the serial CAN Buss.

 

[priit271]

What is the age and condition of the aux/starter battery up front under the hood?
What is the voltage when the key is OFF, and then when in ACC and ON position?

An old, weak or worn out battery can cause numerous faults such as you experienced, especially the "Uxxxx" codes which are due to lack of communication on the serial CAN Buss.

The 12v battery is 3 months old. I changed when I was already on the road due to an old battery. And if I quickly turn the key several times acc and off, I get the ready light. But the light with the yellow exclamation mark is on and the car does not move. Also, when I charge a car, it charges a large battery and also the voltage of the 12v battery is 14.4V.

 

[kiev]

The HV error (car with yellow !) will prevent the car from going to READY, which is likely due to the "Pnnnn" codes. And that many P codes is likely due to the many U codes.

But we still would like to see voltmeter readings; even with a 3-month old battery we have seen this reported on the forum hundreds of times, and the culprit was due to an old, weak or worn out or depleted battery.

Does the fuel gauge show that the pack is fully charged? Will the car charge if plugged back into the EVSE?

 

[priit271]

The HV error (car with yellow !) will prevent the car from going to READY, which is likely due to the "Pnnnn" codes. And that many P codes is likely due to the many U codes.

But we still would like to see voltmeter readings; even with a 3-month old battery we have seen this reported on the forum hundreds of times, and the culprit was due to an old, weak or worn out or depleted battery.

Does the fuel gauge show that the pack is fully charged? Will the car charge if plugged back into the EVSE?

When the key is OFF, then is the voltage 12,62; when ACC then 12,53 and when ON, then 12,31.

I also tried by putting the jumper cables from a 1 month old skoda kodiaq(72ah) battery, but still the same. Then the voltage was 12.7v.

Yes, the fuel gauge show that the pack is fully charged. And the car charge if plugged back into charger(yellow ! on), but the battery needs to run down a bit before.

 

[kiev]

You might try running the heater or A/C to drain the pack some, if it will allow it. With the HV error it likely won't start or charge or allow heater.

Check for the DTCs again and try to clear if possible, see which ones remain.

 

[priit271]

You might try running the heater or A/C to drain the pack some, if it will allow it. With the HV error it likely won't start or charge or allow heater.

Check for the DTCs again and try to clear if possible, see which ones remain.

If I quickly turn the key several times acc and off, I get the ready light and I can use A/c and heater.
And then the car also charges after, but the exclamation mark light is always on.
I have tried clearing the error codes but the same error codes still remain.

 

[kiev]

So the "U" codes have never gone away even with a good strong battery?

In that case i suspect rodent damage of a wiring harness or corrosion of contacts in a connector. Inspect and find the issue or verify that the wiring and connectors are good. Look under the rear seat and trace out from there.

The U codes could be causing the P codes, and the P codes are triggering the HV error ( ! )

 

[piev]

U1426 - Motor speed signal error

The EMCU signal is sent to Active Stability Control -ECU via the CAN bus lines Malfunction of EMCU Malfunction of ASC-ECU

U1116 - Can't find this one
U1111 - Display CAN time-out/Not equipped ETACS-ECU error code
P1A20 Motor Speed Error (EMCU)
P1A21 Motor resolver output value error (EMCU)
P0A44 Motor Speed Anomaly
P0A43 Motor resolver open/short circuit

 

[juhan]

Thanks for running the blog, it has been really useful in finding solutions for various problems with i-Mievs!

I got similar persistent P0A43 and P1A21 codes around the same time in February, fortunately while parked in front of my house. Only now got around to sorting it. Everything pointed to either the problem with the MCU, resolver or the connection between the resolver and the MCU. I checked the resistances of the resolver coil from the 13 pin Sumitomo plug that is attached to the resolver and they were nominal. But then I discovered that one of the pins (8100-3617) in the plug (Sumitomo 6188-4914) was slightly shorter than the other ones. Then I checked the socket side (Sumitomo 6189-1092) of the cable attached to the MCU and checked the socket holes with a pin. The hole corresponding to the shorter plug pin appeared to be clogged beyond repair, i.e. the plug (8100-3455) was either improperly assembled in the factory (as the corresponding seal on the wires' side of the socket side was slightly higher than all other seals) or was damaged during some previous repairs. The car had probably run for 12 years with this plug with a pin pushed against the faulty socket pin, but in February we had high temperature fluctuations with some days below -20 C. Apparently such temperature fluctuations managed move the pin inside the plug to the extent that the improper connection failed permanently.

In fact, prior to that I had 2 occasions where the car stopped on the motorway with the orange car and exclamation sign warning light, but then started again after and off and on cycle. The car also sometimes hesitated slightly when accelerating, so in the hindsight the connection was unreliable for some time.

To cut to the chase, the fix was to run a single wire from the resolver to the MCU parallel to the harness connected with the Sumitomo connector that gives a solid connection of the particular wire. I got a waterproof single wire connector from the local electronics store and made the wire connections inside the motor resolver housing and inside the MCU. Just pulled the wire through the rubber gromets. Now the car runs fine again So my recommendation with such fault codes would be to start by checking the resolver resistances (easiest done while having removed the right rear wheel) and then checking if all pins actually connect properly to the socket.

 

[MickeyS70]

So my recommendation with such fault codes would be to start by checking the resolver resistances (easiest done while having removed the right rear wheel) and then checking if all pins actually connect properly to the socket.

Hello, thanks for the feedback, your experience confirms what others have reported; motor resolver issues are most likely caused by cable loom/connector faults.